detroit wrap

treebing

Been here much more than a while
Location
Detroit, Mi.
here is a hitch I have been playing around with for the past month. My goal is to eliminate the slop of the four inch biner from the harness. It also is a more direct line and thus feeds a lot better when frogwalking. it makes a more vertical line. The larger DMM ring is key and I think the smaller pinto pulley will be perfect. I was disappointed when I got the big pinto RIG because it was too big for this purpose.
 

Attachments

  • 266549-detroitwrap.webp
    266549-detroitwrap.webp
    30.4 KB · Views: 451
a rope wrench. but it could be to a f8 revolver, a robot, a scarab, or it could be the spliced side of your line in ddrt. Some downsides but i find a significant improvement in tending.
 
it can be done with more wraps or fewer depending on your fancy. shorter cord works a little better. key components is the larger dmm ring because otherwise the cheeks of the pulley rub against the bridge. because one leg of the hitch is on the top sid of the carabiner, it is lifted of the rope a little better and doesnt fall away from your harness like a traditional hitch.

Downsides is that it is a little trickier to detach and attach from the line. Ive gotten good at it with practice.



I always thought it was sort of silly that series and combinations of wraps and twists all had different names. I thought a long time ago that if I ever came up with a worthwhile variation on the theme than that is what I'd call it. You can call it whatever you want.
 
attached is a very poor pic of the french wrap. it should show the difference. you see in the french wrap there is the bridge, the ring, the carabiner, then the pulley and the hitch. The detroit wrap makes it. bridge- ring and then pulley, hitch biner all in one. it pulls the hitch much tighter to you.

the difference really here is the attachment and that each end of the prussic cord terminates on opposite sides of the biner. The micro pulley is directly attached to the ring so there is less slop. Unless you have a fixed attachment point you will need to use the larger ring because the standard ring is too small. Its not a huge difference, but I do think it does perform smoother than other configurations Ive tried.

My biggest problem with ascending the rope in most SRT configs is that the biner, along with the bridge flop away and down and the line does not maintain a straight line like a croll does. My goal here is to more imitate the action of a croll.

Its new to me, maybe not to others out there, but I hadn't seen it before so I thought I'd share.
 

Attachments

  • 266626-frenchwrap.webp
    266626-frenchwrap.webp
    75.8 KB · Views: 204
Kevin is the Kid Rock & Eminem of the tree climbing world!
bling.gif
 
I more or less meant just the hitch part of the assembly. I use "french wrap" as a generic term for that particular kind of hitch wherever it is and whatever the function or the attachment.
Your overall set up I've not seen before though, that's new.
What kind of pulley is that? Is the rod under the wheel load bearing? The new DMM(?) fixed sheave pulleys are, but that looks like an older model. I have an older petzl fixe, and I've often wondered about the load bearing capacity of that portion of the pulley either with a girthed sling or some kind of eye bolt/nut combo through the hole, kind of like adding a becket. The fixe doesn't have a bar like yours, but rather just flat aluminum with a small hole in it.

Also, allthough I haven't tried this in a tree, I think there may be an aluminum alternative to the rope wrench, the Petzl Simple. For those not familiar, it's a bobbin style descender. I learned to use it in the caving world much like a rope wrench in order to descend a weighted rope to reach someone in a small party rescue scenario when down prussiking the line is not an option because of the time involved. Instead of installing it in the typical "S" fashion, you just open it up, put the rope in between the two bobbins and attach the Simple to your harness via a tether. I always backed myself up with a hitch below, at least to start because the weight of the bottom climber makes a difference as to the amount of control you have in the descent.

The angle of the bend in the rope that the Simple and the Rope Wrench introduce may be different, as well as the space in between braking surfaces and the distance of the lever, but the principle is similar. And of course the Simple lacks the "cool" of the RW, but it might work.
 
[ QUOTE ]
My biggest problem with ascending the rope in most SRT configs is that the biner, along with the bridge flop away and down and the line does not maintain a straight line like a croll does. My goal here is to more imitate the action of a croll.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not that I'm pushing the harness but with an NT Tengu I clip an inverted Kong HMS biner holding the hitch directly to the center soft legstrap D. For SRT (or DdRT) the rope feeds straight through the hitch, the hitch advances up the rope as you climb with no resistance and grabs when you want to sit back. My brother J. in Detroit should still have a size medium Tengu if you want to try that out.
-AJ
 
Its a give and take because for working, I am definitely hooked on a bridge style harness. I like to be able to pivot away from my TIP with out wrenching my back. The more I can get my hitch inline and vertical, the easier it tends when ascending. The bridge causes slop and play in the sytem but I need it. The extra four inches that the biner introduces makes it even worse.

The Petzl simple may work but it does place a permanent bend in the rope so it has to be removed before ascending directly up the rope at least as far as I understand it. I have not seen one up close. i will research further looks like some potential there definitly.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Its a give and take because for working, I am definitely hooked on a bridge style harness. I like to be able to pivot away from my TIP with out wrenching my back. The more I can get my hitch inline and vertical, the easier it tends when ascending. The bridge causes slop and play in the sytem but I need it. The extra four inches that the biner introduces makes it even worse.

[/ QUOTE ]

Definitely, most work climbers prefer a bridge. Work climbers I know who use the Tengu comment that there's enough side to side play on the front of the harness that it's surprisingly close to a bridge harness in responsiveness, in other words it's much better than a typical "no bridge" center attachment harness like the Petzl Navajo for example.

Bridge slop is certainly well solved with the hitchclimber for DdRT but clearly not for SRT. A light bungee over the shoulder attached to the ring on the bridge with a mini carabiner might also solve it for SRT.
-AJ
 
even with a hitchclimber you end up with carabiner slop. i do throw my lanyard over the shoulder to hold whatever hitch I have upright. Try this hitch out. Even with the Tengu it will allow you to bring your hitch even tighter to the body and you would have very little slop at all. You would also not need the larger ring because it is not on a bridge. it does make a little difference in tending.

I just ordered a petzl simple. I will let you all know how it compares. I hope it doesnt work! I am very close to releasing a metal midline attacheable! Just trying to figure out the last details.
 
[ QUOTE ]

I just ordered a petzl simple. I will let you all know how it compares. I hope it doesnt work! I am very close to releasing a metal midline attacheable! Just trying to figure out the last details.

[/ QUOTE ]

Dang. I might have saved you the money. I played around a little with my simple today and it will work, but in a limited sense. The way I explained earler did not provide enough resistance above the hitch for my taste (rope installed between the bobbins). A half turn around the top bobbin did wonderfully on descent and limbwalking and because of the asymmetric shape of the top bobbin and keeper pin you can have two different levels of friction there. This does however, as you suspected, put a permanent bend in the rope requiring you to install the Simple after your ascent. The caveat here is that while you can do this in about 3 seconds, and you can do it anywhere in the tree that you can lanyard in, because of the way the Simple works you must use a connector of some kind. This means that there is always a carabiner floating right about level with your hitch so it's a little more finicky to pull the hitch IMO.

Anyway, yes the Simple will work, but more like a F8 revolver than a Rope Wrench.

I am very interested in seeing the metal midline attachable version! You won't have any trouble selling that.
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom