Descending 3/8" kern SRT?

[samsquatch]

Need some ideas for descending from a 3/8" static rope in SRT. What systems would you use that:

• are affordable
• wouldn't melt a hitch cord

Which hitch cord would you use on 3/8"?

 

[samsquatch]

Idea 1: F8 device, but that requires a song & dance messing with my ascending safety hitch. Other ideas?

 

[climbstihl]

I don't really like hitch cords on skinny ropes like that, I would use a figure 8, tube, or a grigri or similar device.

 

[climbstihl]

So what exactly is the scenario? You ascend on a hitch and then want to change over to descent?

 

[samsquatch]

I'm wrestling with a Rollgliss ascender device right now. I want to be able to descend on it if an ascent goes awry. Funny thing is the RG is meant to be a descender, but once you chuck a drill in it to ascend, there is no easy way to descend. At least, when I reverse the drill, something is making a god aweful mechanical noise. I can't determine if it's the drill clutch or the RG's gearbox but something doesn't like powered reverse with gravity...
Cheers

 

[climbstihl]

Can't you take the drill out and descend then? I sort of know how these automatic descenders work, but not really.
Do you want your descender to be above or below the RG? Or in other words, do you want to have to take the RG off to descend?

 

[samsquatch]

Fighting with removing the drill chuck (tight spacing) is not something I want to do in the air. It was hard enough with 2 feet on the ground. I'd rather hang from the safety hitch above the RG and attach another descender..
Using an F8 is hard/not possible on a taut line right? How then does one descend an SRT line once dangling from a hitch?

 

[samsquatch]

Would a Petzl I'D be a good option to replace the safety hitch above the RG? Then just remove the RG and descend with the I'D?

 

[climbstihl]

Would a Petzl I'D be a good option to replace the safety hitch above the RG? Then just remove the RG and descend with the I'D?

That won't work, the only thing you could use like that is the Taz Lov2 because the rope runs straight through it.
You could take the I'D with you though and install it underneath the RG, or take off the RG, install the I'D under the hitch, then lower the hitch until your weight is on the I'D.

 

[climbstihl]

Same thing goes for the F8, just install it under the hitch.
What exactly is your rope? 3/8" is 9.5 mm, I don't think the I'D works with that, you'll need a grigri or other sport climbing device for skinny ropes.

 

[Jan_]

The TAZ LOV2 works on up to 10mm rope and would be ideal if you can fit 10mm into the rollgliss.

 

[samsquatch]

Nope, the RG is stuck with 3/8". I'm not modding it. I will purchase a 200' hank from Gap Arb Supply, but that's the only thing different I want to do there.
I guess any descending device can be attached to the tail of the rope when hanging from the hitch, climber's choice there.

But first, I'm going to try a different drill in the RG, just to see if there is an option out there that will allow me to keep that singular system in use for both ascent/descent without messing with the chuck mid air.

 

[climbstihl]

What type of rope is it though?

 

[samsquatch]

I will be using 200' KM III, the same as stock.

 

[Burrapeg]

You will likely run into the same issues you describe here when you get at height and want to move around, limb walk, whatever. The RollGliss is useless for that and with no multiscender on the small line which works in both directions, you would be severely handicapped. Unless you mod it, what I would recommend as a regular habit (from several years of messing with my two RollGliss) is to use it only for the ascent, carrying the end of a second normal size working line up with you to use once you are up and want to work the canopy, and also for final descent. Park the RollGliss on a limb once up at height or just lower it to the ground. Come down after the climb on your normal rope, with a pull-down cord at the TIP for retrieval if SRT. This avoids a lot of wear and tear on both drill and RollGliss, and is actually quicker and safer than fussing with changing devices on the small line. The smaller line is just a real pain as a working line, hard on the hands and there are almost no reliable hitch combo's or devices that work with it for both ascent and descent, especially if you are on the heavier side. I got close to a workable solution myself by machining a custom smaller Bulldog Bone for the small line but at 180 pounds, I was just too heavy for the setup. It had too much weight on it to release smoothly. I even bought another type of small line to fit the RollGliss which was softer than the stiff Kermantle that comes with it. Again, no cigar. (I still have the smaller Bone and it would be fine SRT for a very light climber or a child. And I have used it a couple times DdRT so that it had less than half the weight on it).

 

[39Buick]

when I reverse the drill, something is making a god aweful mechanical noise. I can't determine if it's the drill clutch or the RG's gearbox but something doesn't like powered reverse with gravity...

That mechanical non holding sound is coming from your drill! I had first tried a Milwaukee drill with the RG when I started messing with it and experienced that same sound along with the drill not holding position. Exchanged it for the Dewalt model that @Burrapeg recommended to me. If you are just using the drill and have not fashioned a support of sorts to take the torque of the drill off your wrists than locking the RG off and removing the drill shouldn't be a problem.
I currently use my RG in the same fashion as a wraptor, which has been recommended above!
I am assuming you bought one without the rope? Why would you otherwise need to buy a hank of rope? But since you are buying a rope I believe there is a little more room around the sheave internally to go with a slightly larger rope!
I recently picked up a similar unit made by Honeywell/Miller that uses a 10.5 or 11 static rope if i read it correctly but haven't had time to tinker with it to much. Pretty much the same thing as the RG but more compact.

 

[climbstihl]

To take @Burrapeg s post a little further, you could run a DdRT system or an SRT system off your backup hitch (put a backup knot underneath), then you can work the tree and descend on that. For retrieval, if you have a canopy anchor, you would have to disconnect the rollgliss (maybe hang it on the retrieval side?) and use a retrievable hitch like the secret weapon, but if you use a base anchor it gets really easy.

 

[samsquatch]

You will likely run into the same issues you describe here when you get at height and want to move around, limb walk, whatever. The RollGliss is useless for that and with no multiscender on the small line which works in both directions, you would be severely handicapped. Unless you mod it, what I would recommend as a regular habit (from several years of messing with my two RollGliss) is to use it only for the ascent, carrying the end of a second normal size working line up with you to use once you are up and want to work the canopy, and also for final descent. Park the RollGliss on a limb once up at height or just lower it to the ground. Come down after the climb on your normal rope, with a pull-down cord at the TIP for retrieval if SRT. This avoids a lot of wear and tear on both drill and RollGliss, and is actually quicker and safer than fussing with changing devices on the small line. The smaller line is just a real pain as a working line, hard on the hands and there are almost no reliable hitch combo's or devices that work with it for both ascent and descent, especially if you are on the heavier side. I got close to a workable solution myself by machining a custom smaller Bulldog Bone for the small line but at 180 pounds, I was just too heavy for the setup. It had too much weight on it to release smoothly. I even bought another type of small line to fit the RollGliss which was softer than the stiff Kermantle that comes with it. Again, no cigar. (I still have the smaller Bone and it would be fine SRT for a very light climber or a child. And I have used it a couple times DdRT so that it had less than half the weight on it).

Yes, I would only ascend the 3/8" line and once at the top install my TIP for MRS/DDRT multicender. My thought was, I may need to quickly descend the 3/8" ascent line (bee nest?) and want to find a good way to do that.

 

[samsquatch]

To take @Burrapeg s post a little further, you could run a DdRT system or an SRT system off your backup hitch (put a backup knot underneath), then you can work the tree and descend on that. For retrieval, if you have a canopy anchor, you would have to disconnect the rollgliss (maybe hang it on the retrieval side?) and use a retrievable hitch like the secret weapon, but if you use a base anchor it gets really easy.

I really like this idea. But I'm not terribly comfortable with running a tree-swinging life support hitch on the 3/8", unless someone knows of a solid hitch cord that we can rely on that diameter line!

 

[samsquatch]

Why would you otherwise need to buy a hank of rope?
...
I recently picked up a similar unit made by Honeywell/Miller that uses a 10.5 or 11 static rope if i read it correctly but haven't had time to tinker with it to much. Pretty much the same thing as the RG but more compact.

I bought a RG 550 with 50' line, it was the most cost-effective to do that and purchase 200' hank separately.
There was a reason I didn't go with the unit that has larger rope capacity, but now I can't remember why. Cost maybe?