JTree
Participating member
- Location
- East Texas
That's actually not a bad idea at all. At bare minimum you might get free cordage to jack around with.
Cousin atrax splice how to
- Thread starter Samsquanch
- Start date
That's actually not a bad idea at all. At bare minimum you might get free cordage to jack around with.
Yan Manson
New member
- Location
- montreal
I got an ATRAX a month ago and did a standard DB splice on it, since i dont climb on a zigzag . The splicer at my local arborist
store met cousin trestec rep and got splicing instruction. Im gonna ask him if he could give it to me to share it.
store met cousin trestec rep and got splicing instruction. Im gonna ask him if he could give it to me to share it.
Attempted this splice following Sam's instructions. Needs a bit of refining for donaghys cougar but I think it'll work.
Little bumpy so I think maybe take a few less strands from the core just even it out diameter wise with the cover in cover.
Also eye didn't quite suck all the way in so don't really know what I did there, any suggestions?
Little bumpy so I think maybe take a few less strands from the core just even it out diameter wise with the cover in cover.
Also eye didn't quite suck all the way in so don't really know what I did there, any suggestions?
Your write up looks good, the cover in cover section, just below the eye, looks bigger than the rest. It might mean the cover is a larger diameter than the core, this might be causing some of the bumps.
To shorten the eye try milking the cover from the end of the rope all the way to the eye. If that doesn’t work, some core can be pulled from the end and milk again. Once the eye is the desired size, milk the cover back to the end of the rope to rebalance it.
To shorten the eye try milking the cover from the end of the rope all the way to the eye. If that doesn’t work, some core can be pulled from the end and milk again. Once the eye is the desired size, milk the cover back to the end of the rope to rebalance it.
Does anyone feel like making a video of this? I think I've got the rough idea but would appreciate a video of any one has the inclination. Thanks
WARNING: the core exits at the eye, not where it shows in picture! D’oh!
Here’s the splice laid out for a single picture. It’s just the main points, no measurements. The cover and core tails at the crossover
would be buried, but were pulled to show where they end. The black threads at the ends of the two tails and at the eye were added to keep it together.
@Tommy_B, Found I couldn’t follow my own directions, the core needs to exit at the eye.
Here’s the splice laid out for a single picture. It’s just the main points, no measurements. The cover and core tails at the crossover
would be buried, but were pulled to show where they end. The black threads at the ends of the two tails and at the eye were added to keep it together.
@Tommy_B, Found I couldn’t follow my own directions, the core needs to exit at the eye.
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Yes, the anchor knot is needed. I think the crossover should get a few stitches to hold it together for the bury. I think mine that I bought might have slipped because the core had a bump a little farther past the splice. It might be a good idea to rebalance the cover and core of the rest of the rope.
I’m having a hard time nailing down the measurement for the portion that is cover buried in cover only, the part just below the eye. Mistakenly made it 300mm and the eye was too big, tried 200mm and the cover had some slack when finished. The patent seems to give two different measurements, the first paragraph and part 6.
@Samsquanch, do have any thoughts ?
@Samsquanch, do have any thoughts ?
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
It is 300mm, from inspecting two factory ropes the completed measurements are correct.
I've helped a few people 1 on 1 do it and i really need to get around to making revised instructions
Super quick rundown
At the moment what I'm doing is measuring down 750mm, pulling the core and milking it all back to zero. With the core removed the marked points made on the empty jacket can be done more accurately.
Make your marks on the jacket, eye, 300mm, then 200mm and another 200mm. Leave excess on to allow proper tapering
Mark where core exits, pull core, mark 300, 200 and 200, cut off excess tail, like halfway along 300 mark again, to give excess to make tapering easier.
When picking strands to cut, try to pick an even amount of strands going in opposite directions, helps to evenly reduce the weave without leaving large gaps in it.
Mark diagonal line on jacket and core where reduction is going to be done, pull and cut strands along the diagonal line, but only cut out 2 strands less than half total, (i.e if total 30 strands, remove 13) as with strands removed, weave loosens and reduces in dia even when burried.
Loosely putting some thin cellotape over the cut strand ends of the jacket helps to prevent them poping from under a strand and folding over when burrying which would cause a lump, not 100% needed but it helps. Put this on before the bury after finishing the crossover if you do use tape. Try not to let the ends unweave as much as you can.
Dont jam the crossover it'll cause a lump and deform the braid
Once the crossover burries are done, really milk it all out and make sure it's zero'd as best as possible, when tapering the excess from the burries. Make it about 1/4" longer from the base of the taper to approx 1/2" at the tip, this'll give a slight lump, which can be felt on factory ropes, it ensures no necking at these points. A small subtle lump is better than necking.
Hope this helps anyone attempting this. Sorry my OG instructions were so rough. This rambling was more of a tips and tricks.
The best tip is to pull the core before measuring, thanks!
The cover tapering on the one I bought pulls 6 strands going one way, every other one, and then 6 the other way. It took about 70mm to do and the corresponding tapered tails were the same length, like you said to keep a consistent diameter.
I guess experimenting would determine how many cover strands to take to make the diameters match. Taking half the Velocity cover strands results in a slightly larger diameter than the core. The Stable Braid was also larger.
The cover tapering on the one I bought pulls 6 strands going one way, every other one, and then 6 the other way. It took about 70mm to do and the corresponding tapered tails were the same length, like you said to keep a consistent diameter.
I guess experimenting would determine how many cover strands to take to make the diameters match. Taking half the Velocity cover strands results in a slightly larger diameter than the core. The Stable Braid was also larger.
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Interesting. First attempt on arrow frog with 50/50 reduction gave a smaller diameter, went with leaving extra strands in and got a constant diameter. A friend i gave instructions to also left extra strands in on cougar blue with good results. I do think it's going to vary greatly from cordage to cordage. In the patent there is a specified limit of % removal of which i can't remember off the top of my head. This might be a limiting factor which ropes can have this splice as a consistent diameter might not be able to be achieved without excessive reduction.
theatertech87
Branched out member
- Location
- Rochester
Just stumbled across this, anyone have any concerns about the strength of the splice? as it looks like the eye is composed of just the cover, so ~half the strength of a standard double braid splice?
Nugreen's break test video seems to corroborate those rough numbers
my wondering is driven by curiosity and desire to try and apply this splice technique to ropes like the yale 11.7's, imori, that I prefer to climb on... That is of course assuming I can actually complete the splice in the first place
Nugreen's break test video seems to corroborate those rough numbers
my wondering is driven by curiosity and desire to try and apply this splice technique to ropes like the yale 11.7's, imori, that I prefer to climb on... That is of course assuming I can actually complete the splice in the first place
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
I personally do not like the splice and don't do it for customers. Will do it for friends who are insistent but would not do it on my own ropes.
It is a personal choice. The splices patent does not specify a brand or exact diameter of cordage acceptabe, but a range if memory serves correctly. I have seen a number of friends with the atrax rope experiencing easily damaged eye splices from general use which is concerning.
I have also seen friends experiencing slipping on the atrax line with a 3 month old zigzag. I'm very suspicious of the splice and cordage personally but have drawn no conclusions yet.
theatertech87
Branched out member
- Location
- Rochester
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The one for tachyon looks pretty close
theatertech87
Branched out member
- Location
- Rochester
Sadly the tachyon teufelberg splice isn't the same, it still leaves core strands in the eye and, despite being smaller than a traditional eye splice, still won't fit through a zigzag. though it's not the eye itself, but the throat that's too large, so perhaps with some modification to the core bury and taper it might be doable. Brockys method works nicely though
Looked at the Tachyon splice and it looks like half the core strands are still there and it’s basically a class I double braid. I should have gotten a patent, did hitch cords somewhat like that a couple of years ago, but using a much easier method. How does this splice replace the Slaice if it won’t go through the ZZ?
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