CMI 3/4" Block

B

BARPINCHER

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Holzhockerstettle PA
CMI 3/4\" Block

TO start....this is not a slam CMI Thread. But...I have a 3/4" CMI stainless block. THis past week with all the storm work I've been doing and I have NOT been taking large pieces out.. most could easily be handled with 1/2" tackle but I only have 3/4" ropes and gear. The last 3-6 feet of my bull ropes have been taking a real beating to the point I need to trim back to good rope. I have a 5/8 bull rope and that was getting beat up worse and faster at the same time so I stopped using it altogether till I figure this out. It seems as tho the not sharp but def squared off edges on the block contacting my ropes under tension are causing this. I do take as much slack as possible out of my ropes and check alignments before they get a dynamic load. Anybody run into this before? I took a grinder with a sanding disk and radiused all edges but have yet to try that out yet. I also piked up a new ISC 3/4" block but didn't get to run that yete either.
 
Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

The aluminum blocks are easier on the lines than those steel ones. I've got a few steel ones and definitely have to be mindful of the alignment of things.
 
Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

Thanks for the insight. I'm borderline thinking of saving that Steel block just for static work. I'm preaching to the choir here about replacement costs of ropes. Next rigging work I have is a week away until I can try my modded block out.
 
Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

DMM has the answer.
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Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

Ive got 3 steel blocks and I rounded the edges with a file or a dremel and I havent had any probs like you describe. They aren't rounded as much as an Al block though. Too bad they can't round em at the factory. But you know how it is, virtually everything needs a little customization. I recently picked up a new Vertex Vent helmet with shield and muffs and it all worked perfectly out of the box without any customization, and I was psyched! Most of my previous hard hats needed something to make em right.
 
Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

I've noticed rope wear from my stainless CMI arborist blocks. I took a Dremel and rounded the sharp edges.
For drop hitching or negative rigging, I use the Hobbs 5/8's or 3/4". Much kinder to the rope fibers.

DMM absolutely has the nicest arborist rigging block.
 
Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

You guys are right and I knew it before I started this thread about the DMM. I just don't have the gas for as much as they want for them right now. They are on the will have but not must have list for now. I'll be rigging next week with my sanded CMI so I'll let ya know how it goes. Thanks all
 
Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

Hey I am sure your dremeled CMI block will work real good. I did the same but before I used it as I knew the rope would rub if the piece was not aligned properly, the edges were just too square. However that said the DMM block makes all others look and feel like dinosaurs they have really smooth surfaces and boy they also work superb. Definitely worth the bucks when you have a really big removal without the use of a crane. For everyday use and small removals I will use the CMI to save weight. Paul.
 

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Re: CMI 3/4\" Block

I've noticed that the 3/4" CMI is not as forgiving of poorly lead angles of entry and exit but not rope damage resulting from it. I really try not to lead that poorly but sometimes it's hard not to.
 
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