Climbing Irons/Spurs/Spikes?

TC · Nov 17, 2006

Does anyone know about these footplate things you can get for spikes, This has probably been discussed before but i can't find a thread.

I am tall 6ft 3 and have big feet and my feet arch over the bottom bit of the spikes (bashlin).

I wear good solid boots.

Gets very uncomfortable after about 3 hours climbing
But i've always carried on anyway(stupid i know).

Also the shin strap wraparound bit of the spurs does not keep the spike straight attached to my legs.

It angles the top of the spikes back the way.

I've been climbing like this for 10 years and I am now visibly bow legged, a la John Wayne.

I need help desperately!

I also get strange pain in my knees for the whole night after a big removal.(crunching sounds from cartilage)

I know this all sounds a bit late in the day.

Sorry to all you people who think im stupid for not finding out earlier.

Photos would be appreciated

Thank you, grover.

KentuckySawyer · Nov 17, 2006

I've tried those footplates that attatch to spikes. The objective being to disperse the load (ie you). I think they're really uncomfortable. They inhibited articulation of the ankle, and overall weren't worth it.

I'd say spend some bucks and buy a good comfortable and light pair of hooks. On removals I try to hang in my saddle (bosun seat) as much as possible, but after awhile your feet are just going to hurt.

Colin · Nov 17, 2006

You've GOT to alternate between standing on your spurs and hanging in your saddle. You'll last longer that way. And I've never been impressed with those footplate things.

jonseredbred · Nov 17, 2006

bucket truck? I had too with age.

RogerM · Nov 17, 2006

Maybe you could ask Oscar the grouch for a garbage can lid that will distribute your weight a bit... Just kidding, those "plates" are actually a hinderance. I tried them and found they limit your ability to to step a toe in a crotch or on a stub or branch. I think I paid $60 for them...$60 lesson. Not worth it.

Mark Chisholm · Nov 18, 2006

I agree. Too heavy and limiting. I'd say try the super wrap pads from Buck. and get the metal inserts. Then, adjust the spike length down a few inches from where they are recommended. Maybe mid-calve is about right. That should help the knee pain- it did for me.

Colin · Nov 18, 2006

Not me. I need my pads as high as possible.

Peter McS · Nov 18, 2006

You could always try a pair of boots with either metal shanks in them or thick souls. Better than adding a foot plate.
Also are your hokes adjusted long enough towards your knee? if they are too short they will cause the knee joint to be pushed outwards not good long term.

GASoline71 · Nov 18, 2006

Me too... I'm 6'5" tall and I need to have mine adjusted out all the way to fit "comfy" for me. I also have the cast aluminum "caddie" pads. They are awesome. Butch talked me into 'em. Best piece of advice i got in a long time.

Make sure your boots have a good steel shank in the instep. It will aleviate a lot of the probs with your arches. I have a high arch, and they get sore quickly. So the steel shank boots are a must for me.

Plus as Butch already said... alternate between your spurs and hangin' in the saddle to give your arches a break.

Gary

Tom Dunlap · Nov 18, 2006

When I went from a straight shank climber to a twisted most of my leg pain went away. The bent shafts keep the alignment better. Mine are buckingham steel with full wrap velcro w/inserts. Pretty dang comfy!

Mangoes · Nov 18, 2006

Some of the Royer work boots have double shanks in them, rumour is they are very nice on spurs.

Colin · Nov 18, 2006

No shanks at all in these puppies, just a THICK arch.

tnttree · Nov 18, 2006

Tryed the footplates years ago, seemed to make sense - junk! I have those Alum pads most comfort Ive known.
Good strong arched boots are the ticket - or better yet a MAT3 75'er

Lazarus2 · Nov 18, 2006

The twisted shank Buckinghams work best for me. I can't recommend highly enough the steel shin cups. I haven't tried the velcro wrap steel ones, I'm currently on the no steel velcro wraps. I'm pining for the old style Buckingham leather shin cups with steel inserts. These were angled nicely. Set them down about three to four inches down from the knee.

As for the feet, you need a rigid sole. A class 3 stiff mountaineering boot should do the trick.

Always have a slightly bent knee, and avoid turning your knee out too much - seriously bad for your knees. Strengthen your knees with slow squats and forward lunges. No weights required.

Only wear your spikes when you really need to.

TC · Nov 18, 2006

Thanks for all the info so far! - an excellent response to my problems with my spurs.

Here's what I've got so far from the thread;

1. Footplates - No good

2. Alternate between spurs and hanging in saddle

3. Top of spur shank should be mid calf.

4. Top of spur shank should be high as possible.

4.5 Top of spur shank should be 4 inchs below knee.

5. Get boots with metal shanks in the sole.

6. Twisted shank buckinghams(steel) are good.

7. Get steel shincups for spurs.

8. Strengthen knees with squats.

I have always used Bashlin Aluminium with the soft velcro wraparound or leather strap.

I wear the Bashlins at their longest setting - just below my knee.

But the velcro wraps are too soft, no matter how tight I set them! they always create slack and head back the way so the main shank of the spurs are not parallel with my inside shins.

I just assumed this was because I was tall and accepted it.

I will look at the steel shin cups, steel shanked boots and twisted shank Bucks. And play around with different spur shank length settings.

When on a vertical spar I tie into front D rings so as to put more weight on the batten seat of my saddle(buck trav)- works well and takes some weight of those spurs.

Does anyone have any experience of the Wolf claws or Geckos?

Thanks again,

grover.

No_Bivy · Nov 18, 2006

MOdify them when closed minicell foam, plush. You can buy this stuff from a whitewater outfitter. They use it to pad kayaks. Easy to shape, doesn't absorb water like the foam that buckingham uses. Much better.

TC · Nov 18, 2006

[ QUOTE ]
MOdify them when closed minicell foam, plush. You can buy this stuff from a whitewater outfitter. They use it to pad kayaks. Easy to shape, doesn't absorb water like the foam that buckingham uses. Much better.

[/ QUOTE ]

So, you put this stuff on the inside of the velcro wraparounds? maybe glue it on? How do you attach it to the shank of the spur so it stays solid, like the steel shin cups?

I'm a little confused, more info needed please.

1914 · Nov 18, 2006

I have geckos for regular tree work and buckinhams with the steel foot plate for when we remove with crane. After piece floats away I try and fine a comfotable place to stand or lean back. I like the foot plates for just standing.