Carabiner nosing

[DSMc]

I thought this information is important enough that a reminder was in order for those of you who understand this risk and a heads up to those who do not.
A lot of SRWP setups are becoming quite wide at the top of the carabiner and crowding the gate. This configuration increases the risk of accidentally creating a highly dangerous condition.

Dave

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-...oked-carabiners

 

[SingleJack]

Thanks, Great point Dave! Though it is harder to "nose" a triple-lock - still, it is a valid concern.

Another thought about "wide" setups for SRWP, I've been using HMS biners because they are specifically designed to take wider loading at the top.

 

[opposablethumb]

Thanks Dave. This is some good information to know.

I'm definitely hoping that the minds that have brought us so much innovation in the recent past will soon bring setups with better interfaces between pulley/rope/friction hitch/tether/friction assist device yadda yadda yadda.

 

[TonyK]

Thanks Dave, really good point and a very timely reminder, I just commented the other day as I currently play with a tied 10mm OP hitch how much tighter it gets on the top of an oval especially with tether legs or a pinto.

 

[GeorgeR]

Carabiners breaking in this way almost always happens in sport climbing scenarios. with something like tree work a quick check of all gates after setup can go a long way to ensure that everything is good.

To Nose hook a carabiner the only load point must be at the gate interface. An open gate will take much more load to break the biner as it still loads the spine. The next time you sit into your harness reach down and try to open the biner, I'll bet money that you aren't even loading the gate yet and it will open just fine.

Still not an excuse to skip the double check of all gear and knots.