Calculating moving rear axel to shift front weight

Gorman

Gorman

Branched out member
Location
Rhode Island
Yeah, I just found out Ballard Mack totally screwed up making my truck and I've been using a truck with way too much weight on the front axel. I need to have the rears moved up but does anyone have a mathematical formula for this?
 
No, you need to know what your current axle spacing and weighs are to calculate the change by moving the axle(s). If is a tandem, front axle to trunnion is what's needed.
 
To clarify, I need your loaded axle weights. Empty we'd need more measurements to approximate the COG of the loaded bed and factor that in. Not that big of a deal either way.
 
Gorman said:
I've been using a truck with way too much weight on the front axle.
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What is your concern? That DOT is going to nail you for being overweight (on the front axle), or are you worried about the extra wear and tear on your front axle? How's the truck ride and drive? Is Ballard Mack going to fix this, or is it totally on you?
 
I would imagine both are valid reasons as well as shortening your wheel base decreases the turning radius making the truck more nimble.
 
Jeff said:
What is your concern? That DOT is going to nail you for being overweight (on the front axle), or are you worried about the extra wear and tear on your front axle? How's the truck ride and drive? Is Ballard Mack going to fix this, or is it totally on you?
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This truck was built 2 years ago and i admit that I was ignorant about the wheelbase and weight on the front. I left it to Ballard to shorten it and I told them the size box I wanted. There is no way is holy hell that they will lift a finger on this at this point. I've had several warranty issues that fell on deaf ears and have had to pay out of pocket.

My concern is damaging the front end. I weighed it with a little over half full with locust chips and the front end was at 9,300 when it's rated for 8,300 lbs.
 
Lumberjack said:
To clarify, I need your loaded axle weights. Empty we'd need more measurements to approximate the COG of the loaded bed and factor that in. Not that big of a deal either way.
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Ok, so I load the truck pretty much full with chips and weigh both axles independently and measure the wheelbase. I'll try soon
 
2bf94e8f8a8bba1945908ab226e22c9d.jpg

Here is my truck. Please don't prank my phone. As you can see, the rear end was not appropriately placed.
4702f5c82988a9add33c3cb744cf35c9.jpg

Here is the front bearing plate for my rear springs. As you can also see, I have only about 14" of movement with it until it hits the welded frame for the scissor hoist.
 
Another thing that could factor in is the tongue weight of your chipper and the distance from your hitch to the front axle. More tongue weight takes weight off the steer and puts it on the drives.

What's the GAWR of the rear axle? It's possible the box is a bit oversized for the truck. At first blush I would say the rear axle centerline should be around where the mud flap hangs.
 
We calculated that full the box could hold 19 yards but really we only get about 17 in there so that gives me a 10k payload which the truck allows
 
Gorman said:
My concern is damaging the front end
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You said Mack and I was picturing a big 10 wheeler long nose Mack. Now that I see what you're driving, I understand your concerns.
Lumberjack said:
At first blush I would say the rear axle centerline should be around where the mud flap hangs.
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I like your thinking, Carl, but I'm going to guess a few inches behind the current mudflap. Maybe 3/4 of the distance from where it currently is to where the mud flap is. Should we start a pool? "Guess where Gorman's axle should be! Winner receives a truck load of wood chips, FOB Rhode Island!"
 
If I'm limited to about 12 to 13 inches is it worth the trouble or am I just throwing money at a problem and hoping it will go away?
 
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