Birch Tree in a Bad Spot? Prune or Remove?

climbingmonkey24

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
United States
This birch tree is for a repeat client of mine, they want to trim it because it's "getting out of control" and I already checked it's not a town tree.

Initially we were talking about trimming back the lower branches to create more clearance near the sidewalk, neighbor's driveway etc. but as I said they're worried about it being out of control and particular about how it's trimmed.

In my personal opinon I think the tree is just in a bad spot. There are main power lines right next to it, and I'm not sure how noticable it is in the pictures but that big town tree near it has branches growing right over the top of it. Eventually they may collide. I would almost suggest taking it down and planting something smaller and then managing it right from the beginning so it doesn't get that big.

What are your opinions on what to do with this tree?

IMG_2049.jpegIMG_2051.jpeg
 
Specific Specifications.

What exactly are your clients wants? What do they specifically want to avoid?

How does this translate?

Canopy raise to _____'.
Prune deadwood larger than 1.5" in diameter, or longer than 3'.
Pruning of live branches will be at diameters less than _____" at the branch-collar.
Removal of live crown will be less than _______.


If they are specific about what they want, pin them down on specs, and work to specs,

or prune as directed/ dictated at $150/ hour. No flat price when the goal posts will keep moving.
 
Thanks for the replies and input!

Another question. I will not "top" a tree as in hacking off a good portion of the top because obviously topping really isn't beneficial in most cases and does more harm than good (not that I need to mention that here).

If you were to do a crown reduction, how much do you think you could safely lower the height before you cross that line of what is acceptabe and what could be counterproductive to the trees health? I have never really done a crown reduction. So I'm asking more for my own knowledge. They had mentioned doing something near the top and I explained I don't top trees, but crown reduction was in the back of my mind.

More or less they planted the tree and didn't realize it was going to get this big. If we trim it, they would like to ideally get a year or two where they don't have to trim it and it doesn't get too "out of control."

I explained that ideally you need to keep on top of the maintenance from day 1 in order to keep the tree's size, etc. in check because if it get's too big it isn't realistic to try and bring it back to a much smaller size without risking taking too much healthy growth off.
 
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Another question. I will not "top" a tree as in hacking off a good portion of the top because obviously topping really isn't beneficial in most cases and does more harm than good (not that I need to mention that here).

If you were to do a crown reduction, how much do you think you could safely lower the height before you cross that line of what is acceptabe and what could be counterproductive to the trees health? I have never really done a crown reduction. So I'm asking more for my own knowledge. They had mentioned doing something near the top and I explained I don't top trees, but crown reduction was in the back of my mind.
Definitely don’t top it and I’m not sure a crown reduction will do much good here. Crown reduction is to reduce risk of failure. It’s not exactly gonna lower the height of the tree, will just thin the top essentially.
 
Definitely don’t top it and I’m not sure a crown reduction will do much good here. Crown reduction is to reduce risk of failure. It’s not exactly gonna lower the height of the tree, will just thin the top essentially.
Oh exactly, by principal I will not do anything that I know and think isn't good for the tree like topping. That's why I think this is a case of the tree simply got too big and is in a bad spot. Even if we were to trim it, eventually I think it's going to be an issue just because of the location.
 
I often remove a whole trunk or two on multistemmed river birch. There is usually one that is getting squeezed anyhow. Another may accomplish keeping it away from the lines.

I think that tree can be pruned again in 3-5 years then 5-7 for the long term and be in good shape. But i don't know what all they think "out of control" means. Usually keeping the lower branches high enough that they don't hit them when they mow and they don't block visibility pulling out of the driveway will satisfy most people...
 
From the photo it looks like it can handle raising to about the gutter line of the house without removing any larger limbs. From the VERY little experience I have with River birch, they do seem to handle larger pruning wounds than others in my area but I’d avoid it.
As for crown reduction…. I only use it for avoiding failures. For a birch I’d recommend nothing larger than pole pruner size cuts! I also use the line “you cannot keep a tree that wants to grow big small, but you can slow it down a little”
 
What a beauty! Do you get much birch borer in your area? Would look for signs of infection and potentially treat. Around here they rarely make it to that size.
You get it on River Birch? It tears up European and Asian species, but around here River Birch is pretty much BBB- proof. The problems we are associated with alkaline soil...and even on those, I've never seen BBB in them.
 
We defintely have some river birch's in the area that get bigger than this one. This is smaller by comparison. I've seen some with much bigger trunks, etc. I climbed a pretty decent sized one that was removed with a crane near a house a couple years ago.
 
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You get it on River Birch? It tears up European and Asian species, but around here River Birch is pretty much BBB- proof. The problems we are associated with alkaline soil...and even on those, I've never seen BBB in them.
Oh nuts, I saw that as a paper birch not a river birch. I haven’t seen borers on river birches either.
 
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