Bevel buddy

[southsoundtree]

Am I reading this wrong?

Is the "back" or 'front' side the large bevel side?


Do you think the BB grinds the main surface of the blade that is ground off by the pro sharpening?



The BB cautions to only use 3 light touch-ups between pro sharpenings to avoid Too much back bevel.


IME, a micro double bevel does far better than no touch-up.

I don't chip like a lot of you guys, plus I can increase my HP whenever I feel like it. I don't remember when I last changed my blades. The chips are not like new blades, but the chipper eats like mad.



On my microchipper, a touchup made a noticeable difference. Its only 14 hp. Centripital clutch so only run at full power.








I've been using one of these for over a decade.

 

[Lumberjack]

From your picture, Bevel Buddy sharpens the B side, or the back side of the knife, not the side that is sharpened from the factory or sharpening service.

Merle's tool is just like the Accusharp you posted, except it only has one carbide blade and it sharpens side A/the factory sharpened side while leaving the back side/B side unaltered.

 

[southsoundtree]

Yes, that's my take.

Morbark is advising a micro- double bevel.




Self-reporting, especially when a person is validated in their efforts by the conclusion, is biased, not necessarily right or wrong.

 

[VenasNursery]

I’ve been using a BB for a few years and absolutely love it like someone said 100 hrs maybe even 120 hrs
I get 3 times and only the bottom side.

 

[Lumberjack]

Is anyone using a Bevel Buddy on a high hp, machine fed chipper? I'm still new to chipping for production so I'm developing my ideas of how I want to handle it.

The middle knives take the most beating, but sometimes the love gets spread around. With the chips in the edge it seems like any variety of minor sharpening would be pointless, but maybe on a straight edge it'd make sense. Maybe the flap wheel is the method or just keep doing like I have been and swap all the edges at the same time.

My plan is to send numerous sets to be sharpened the same amount so we don't have to chase anvil settings.


This was a new knife with 5 or 10 hours on it. This was insignificant, ran that edge to ~20 hours before flipping it.


This knife had around 15-20 hours on it, it was a resharpened knife that came on the chipper. New knives went on, these knives went in the trash.

 

[VenasNursery]

Is anyone using a Bevel Buddy on a high hp, machine fed chipper? I'm still new to chipping for production so I'm developing my ideas of how I want to handle it.

The middle knives take the most beating, but sometimes the love gets spread around. With the chips in the edge it seems like any variety of minor sharpening would be pointless, but maybe on a straight edge it'd make sense. Maybe the flap wheel is the method or just keep doing like I have been and swap all the edges at the same time.

My plan is to send numerous sets to be sharpened the same amount so we don't have to chase anvil settings.


This was a new knife with 5 or 10 hours on it. This was insignificant, ran that edge to ~20 hours before flipping it.
View attachment 100388

This knife had around 15-20 hours on it, it was a resharpened knife that came on the chipper. New knives went on, these knives went in the trash.
View attachment 100389
[/QUOTE
M18r 213 CAT]

 

[evo]

Yes, that's my take.

Morbark is advising a micro- double bevel.




Self-reporting, especially when a person is validated in their efforts by the conclusion, is biased, not necessarily right or wrong.

I can certainly see a micro bevel being beneficial. Makes the cutting edge slightly less acute.

Felco recommends a tiny micro bevel.

Bandit hints at a recommendation of a slightly dulling swipe with a file ‘that some users find longer knife life’ or something like that..

With pruner blades I was taught to take a fine swipe at ~5 degrees to ‘bump the burr off’. I can get better sharpness without, but not nearly as long lasting of a edge.

 

[oceans]

Is anyone using a Bevel Buddy on a high hp, machine fed chipper? I'm still new to chipping for production so I'm developing my ideas of how I want to handle it.

The middle knives take the most beating, but sometimes the love gets spread around. With the chips in the edge it seems like any variety of minor sharpening would be pointless, but maybe on a straight edge it'd make sense. Maybe the flap wheel is the method or just keep doing like I have been and swap all the edges at the same time.

My plan is to send numerous sets to be sharpened the same amount so we don't have to chase anvil settings.


This was a new knife with 5 or 10 hours on it. This was insignificant, ran that edge to ~20 hours before flipping it.
View attachment 100388

This knife had around 15-20 hours on it, it was a resharpened knife that came on the chipper. New knives went on, these knives went in the trash.
View attachment 100389

The first place I heard about a back grind was 25 years ago. I ran the grinders but often talked to the clearing crew. They ran a 800-some odd hp Model 30 with babbit pockets and all. Very big difference in performance for them when rear loading live floors when the knives dulled out. Since everything came from a distance by skidder, dirt was always an issue and the back grind was crucial for longevity.

The nice thing about babbit is the knife edge always ends up in the same place in relation to the anvil after sharpening. Anvil wear itself was the only reason for ever adjusting that.

I do what you’re talking about in my small drum chipper. All my sets follow eachother in an effort to maintain the same anvil adjustment as long as possible. It means more frequent knife swap but it keeps the amount of material removed to get the edge back more uniform between all the sets.