- Location
- rhode island
What's the snap for?
Better backup system when blocking down a spar
- Thread starter peder-d
- Start date
bonner1040
Branched out member
- Location
- Boston
Jack whats the clip for?
Pretty sure it's intended to keep the 'biner from rotating to the minor axis.
I like a screw link on a butterfly for that, personally, and I think it's quick enough to still be worth it. I also have a delta link on an eye to eye prusik to create the choke, with an easily tuned tail length through the prusik.
I like a screw link on a butterfly for that, personally, and I think it's quick enough to still be worth it. I also have a delta link on an eye to eye prusik to create the choke, with an easily tuned tail length through the prusik.
SingleJack
Participating member
- Location
- W MD
It keeps the biner from getting cross loaded ... learned it from Prune Right.
I used to use a delta all the time but his trick is faster + safe = better.
I used to use a delta all the time but his trick is faster + safe = better.
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
[ QUOTE ]
It keeps the biner from getting cross loaded ... learned it from Prune Right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I like the wrench too, did you cut off the other "open end" and smooth it over?
It keeps the biner from getting cross loaded ... learned it from Prune Right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I like the wrench too, did you cut off the other "open end" and smooth it over?
SingleJack
Participating member
- Location
- W MD
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
It keeps the biner from getting cross loaded ... learned it from Prune Right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I like the wrench too, did you cut off the other "open end" and smooth it over?
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks ... yup, bought it a yard sale for 25¢
Leaned that from Tarzanstree
[ QUOTE ]
It keeps the biner from getting cross loaded ... learned it from Prune Right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I like the wrench too, did you cut off the other "open end" and smooth it over?
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks ... yup, bought it a yard sale for 25¢
Leaned that from Tarzanstree
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Norm,
It looks like with the tied termination of your working end, you avoid having to have a wrench. Is that so?
This seems like a good back-up, but lacks the ability to rappel on your climbing system, no?
I vote HH or WR. HH can go from DdRT to SRT with no changover.
Both take you out of the Circle of Death, if the spar splits, as compared to a friction saver with DdRT,
As Nick Bonner has pointed out, a SRT system with the HH in SRT mode can be released with the rope loaded below with a second climber, which is good for an aerial rescue scenario.
It looks like with the tied termination of your working end, you avoid having to have a wrench. Is that so?
This seems like a good back-up, but lacks the ability to rappel on your climbing system, no?
I vote HH or WR. HH can go from DdRT to SRT with no changover.
Both take you out of the Circle of Death, if the spar splits, as compared to a friction saver with DdRT,
As Nick Bonner has pointed out, a SRT system with the HH in SRT mode can be released with the rope loaded below with a second climber, which is good for an aerial rescue scenario.
I stick with a running bowline to a munter with a few half hitches to lock it off, I usually leave just a few feet of slack (or less) between the bowline and the munter and tie a simple prussic with my split tail between the two (on its own biener), if I'm moving I just pull some slack through the prussic towards the bowline to open up the "loop" and grab it along with the flipline, when I'm working I just pull a little through the prussic and tighten up the loop. I carry very little on my harness, only a spare split tail, biener, brass snap, and a lanyard. working a spar this way allows me to go straight from normal climbing to spurs without adding a bunch of stuff. I've given the grigri a try with a 10mm dynamic rope and it worked really well until I got a bit of sap on the climb line, then it was just about worthless.
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
[ QUOTE ]
Norm, are you putting the tail of your line into a 'biner attached to the quick link for retrieval?
[/ QUOTE ]
That will work. I have a length of 1/4" 3 strand that I use for retrieval.
Norm, are you putting the tail of your line into a 'biner attached to the quick link for retrieval?
[/ QUOTE ]
That will work. I have a length of 1/4" 3 strand that I use for retrieval.
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
[ QUOTE ]
Norm,
It looks like with the tied termination of your working end, you avoid having to have a wrench. Is that so?
This seems like a good back-up, but lacks the ability to rappel on your climbing system, no?
.
[/ QUOTE ]
I put a figure 8 below the hitch. With the extra wraps, I can descend fine.
The cordage is the All Gear TVP 5/16's".
Norm,
It looks like with the tied termination of your working end, you avoid having to have a wrench. Is that so?
This seems like a good back-up, but lacks the ability to rappel on your climbing system, no?
.
[/ QUOTE ]
I put a figure 8 below the hitch. With the extra wraps, I can descend fine.
The cordage is the All Gear TVP 5/16's".
TreeCo
Carpal tunnel level member
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Norm,
It looks like with the tied termination of your working end, you avoid having to have a wrench. Is that so?
This seems like a good back-up, but lacks the ability to rappel on your climbing system, no?
.
[/ QUOTE ]
I put a figure 8 below the hitch. With the extra wraps, I can descend fine.
The cordage is the All Gear TVP 5/16's".
[/ QUOTE ]
Great system Norm, almost exactly what I use but I use a running bowline and my regular 4/2 Vt as it works fine. I've used a biner in the past but don't like it and will be using a metal link from now on!
[ QUOTE ]
Norm,
It looks like with the tied termination of your working end, you avoid having to have a wrench. Is that so?
This seems like a good back-up, but lacks the ability to rappel on your climbing system, no?
.
[/ QUOTE ]
I put a figure 8 below the hitch. With the extra wraps, I can descend fine.
The cordage is the All Gear TVP 5/16's".
[/ QUOTE ]
Great system Norm, almost exactly what I use but I use a running bowline and my regular 4/2 Vt as it works fine. I've used a biner in the past but don't like it and will be using a metal link from now on!
Treezybreez
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Lancaster, SC
In an emergency you might only have one hand available to descend with. That is why I prefer the wrench combo verses the Figure 8.
- Location
- Southington, CT
I have tried many different ways over the years and most of the time I really just keep my lanyard and my climbing system around as a second tie in point, but usually I think the climb and leave a stub here and then up there and then up there again, so on the way down, I will be chucking a piece that works for the surroundings. if I dont have stubs I have left to work off of, and I will be in a small tree I use my adjustable FS and always keep the retriever ball attached to the eye. If I am in a very large diameter tree I have the long 3strand braid adjustable FS, for me its more about comfort,confidence and familiarity. When we all use any technique we will get smoother and enjoy it's operation reaping the benefits. It is nice to have sooooo many different ways to do things as we all have different systems we like. Climb safe everyone! and it's ok to enjoy it too!
