Autoblock

[Fairfield]

I know that this topic has been talked about in the past on this forum, but I thought that having this video would highlight the importance of the matter and drive home the reason as to why you may want to have a backup while climbing SRT. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3T4FT2SHFLo

The link above shows a climber descending in a canyon. His auto block that he has is not being kept in check on his way down (not stopping to make sure it keeps a semi-grip to the line), add to that the wet rope and the muck that may be on it as well and you have the same enviorment that arborist will find in many trees. A sixty foot fall and the autoblock doesnt even try and catch the load. Keep this in mind next time you are on a line SRT. Not so much descending but rather ascending. I know in the past I have been guilty of climbing as high as I had to without loading the hitch I am using, and just tending it with the micro pully. More then once I have got to the height I wanted to be at and the hitch was way to slack and I had to clean it as so it would grab the line when I weighted it.

Stay safe, climb smart.

 

[theXman]

I don't know the auto block , but if it works like most decenders, don't you think it was because he grabbed the rope and therefore there was not enough tension put on the auto block to get it to grab?

 

[bonner1040]

An auto block is a type a prussick... Usually used in rappelling it is a BACKUP to a mech device like a ATC or figure 8. you take a small loop of cord and girth it to a leg strap then you wrap that cord up or down 3 or 4 wraps on the rope exiting the rap device. Simply clip a biner to the end of it and back to the legstrap.

It puts enough friction on the rope to stop the figure 8, ATC or other friction device. NOT enough friction to stop you on its own. It isnt designed or used to provide any independent function.

 

[treewill]

An autoblock is a setup where there is a prussic attached below the friction device, which has been used by mountaineers and rock climbers for decades to allow one to go hands free while descending on a figure 8 or ATC. That dude was using an ATC, and one without a 'soft lock' side, such as a petzl reverso.

Fairfield I think you have a good point there about knowing your hitch and making sure it stays dressed, but I'm not totally convinced that a hitch under a rope wrench behaves like this in the event of a slip. For one thing, autoblocks are usually set up with an english prussic, which IMO is far inferior to a VT for grabbing a single line.

While the video doesn't show his setup in detail (was his knot tied and set properly?) most folks I know consider an autoblock a bad choice for slippery, unpredictable environments. Glad he didn't get hurt, but he really should have known better.

 

[Fairfield]

treewill, I agree with you all the way about a V.T not behaving the same as a French. I just dont want to say that and have a new climber or young climber not worry about checking the hitch as they go. Just trying to think about the next generation coming up, and have them have something to think about as they go.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

[ QUOTE ]
Just trying to think about the next generation coming up, and have them have something to think about as they go.

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This is a 'generational observation'...with the ease of getting good information now I have a hard time giving the 'next generation' much slack about not knowing___________ [fill in the blank]. I taught an EHAP class on Friday with 35 people in it. There were 3 that didn't have smart phones. One guy is 65, the other two were in their 20's. It is way too easy, and has been for a decade or more, to not do a little research before going off into unknown territory.

Did the fallen climber even have a rap device? I don't remember seeing him give the autoblock a 'set-test' before going over the edge. This is an example of 'shake-and-bake' education. That's gonna get more people killed.

 

[Fairfield]

[ QUOTE ]
This is an example of 'shake-and-bake' education. That's gonna get more people killed.

[/ QUOTE ]

Im going to use that saying now, funny and to the point. Now only could I some how throw a Ricky Bobby in it some how...... But really I compleatly agree with you on that one. The unfortunate thing about it is that once a person starts climbing and is in the "everything is new" stage, it will be hard to fix what there bad habbits will be in the future. When you teach a new climber how to tie a knot and then use it, you tell that climber to check their knots as they go. Should be no diffrent for hitches except for that hitches should be checked a little more often ( even more so when on a wet, messy rope that will provide a lessend friction). Im sure the guys that have been working on rope for years are no diffrent then me as they are checking their rigg as they go and don't even think about it anymore. It's just part of the "muscle memory".