Aiming

[Kevin]

In a case like that you can use a metal measuring tape ,string or longer sticks and get inside the V between the tree and the sticks.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

The bent horseshoe nails that are used on the ends of diameter tapes work really nicely for holding ends of string or one end of the D-tape.

Jerry taught me to sink one end of the D-tape, anchor the other and then strtech the D-tape out to it's mid-point.

 

[chris_girard]

Remember too that when using the gunning sights on your saw that your line of sight is not the center of the trunk, but a line to the right of the trunk.

This line may be a foot or more to the right of the center of the trunk. So, YOU MUST BE AWARE THAT THE ACTUAL FALLING PATH OF THE TREE WILL BE THAT MUCH TO THE LEFT OF YOUR SIGHTING LINE.

If you aim exactly where you want the tree to fall, you will be off to the left. This can be critical in tight areas.

 

[RDMOTT]

When it's real critical, we use a framing square. Place the square all the way against the back of the notch. The arm sticking out indicates the exact direction of fall (provided the hinge doesn't fail).(duh)

 

[RDMOTT]

[ QUOTE ]
I just listen to my gut, and toss the sucker.

[/ QUOTE ]

MB - you rock dude. I love and respect your attitude - honestly.

 

[Colin]

Thanks. Perhaps I oversimplified a bit...

 

[southsoundtree]

Can you clarify on just what you mean by kerf cut in this situation?

Are there factors that add to the likelihood of the tear below the hinge? I've never seen or heard of this. Is this superficial, as in ripping down the bark and sapwood, or is it across the heartwood as well? Any specific trees that you know of that this is more likely to occur with?

Only once on a removal when I was taking the top off of a tree near a knot, possibly where it had been topped/ broken 20-30 years before, have I had the bark rip down the trunk potentially entering into the lanyard loop. It seemed like the change in the grain contributed to this.

In the negative effects listed in your post, is it due to the hinge not cleanly breaking when the face cut closes, thereby steering it off to the side of the intended lay? How does this affect barberchairing?

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[Kevin]

Hi Sean;
I usually just bore in, a few inches below the hinge into the trunk.
The split will follow down the grain and into any large roots that are directly below the hinge.
This holding wood deep into the root won't allow the top to let go of the stump and that's when it can split out.
The more hinge wood holding the tree the greater the chance for a barber chair.
When it splits down into the root it can be superficial on the outside or deadly depending on how the wood reacts.
When the hinge doesn't break as intended and the wood holds down into the root system bad things can happen.
Be very cautious when the hinge wood is in line with a large root.