A Chunk of Metal With Some Holes

[Brocky]

The following is greatly inspired by the most excellent idea of the dogbone from the Hitch Hiker. Just put the friction hitch legs through the holes and tie stoppers.


After a few more complicated designs, this was the simplest, and seems the best for this type of design. With the small plate, hitch cords don’t need eyes or have to be a set length to function on certain hitches. The VT, and other hitches will be improve by being able to adjust the leg length. This would also make for cheaper hitch cords for those that buy eyed cords now. This is the first design I was able to make with what I had on hand. There will be a couple others when I get some more aluminum chunks. Here are a couple other ways to use.

 

[climbstihl]

I'm not sold on using hitches without a tending pulley yet, and I don't see a good way of putting one under there. Would using a hitchclimber pulley with the hitch cord through the top holes be an unsafe configuration?

 

[Brocky]

I don’t remember if textiles can be used directly through the HC holes. If the hitch cord is long enough, the stopper tails can be tied together, capturing the rope for tending.

 

[climbstihl]

I don’t remember if textiles can be used directly through the HC holes. If the hitch cord is long enough, the stopper tails can be tied together, capturing the rope for tending.

They can be used directly I believe, but I was asking if you can tie stopper knots on the side of the sideplates, potentially crossloading the entire thing. I don't have a hitchclimber with me, otherwise I'd post a pic.

 

[Brocky]

It doesn’t seem to me to be side loading it done like that, it’s still an upward pull. A fixed side plate pulley works very good.

 

[climbstihl]

The way I'm imagining it, I think it would be sideloading. but the fixed pulley looks good.

 

[Rush]

I would hate to know my life depended on me tying all that properly.. no offense to you sir, more towards my own simple mind...

 

[climbstihl]

At the end of the day, I don't see any real advantage this has over just tying your own eye to eyes, it just increases the complexity.

 

[theatertech87]

I like where you're headed with this... Going to think on it tonight and see if the creative juices come up with something

 

[Brocky]

Eliminating the accessory cord and just using the hitch cord to attach to the carabiner, or ring is next on the plans. I didn’t see this possibility until making the first one.

 

[SeanRuel]

Maybe a t- shaped metal piece, with an attachment point for the carabiner included on the bottom?

 

[Brocky]

Yes, that would be a good option for mass production, that was one of my first possibilities. Another was to have the plate snap on the carabiner, or bridge ring. And then came plates with small holding cord, something I could make to test the concept. This is my thought process to making the small blue one

 

[Burrapeg]

Maybe a t- shaped metal piece, with an attachment point for the carabiner included on the bottom?

Yes, aluminium T-stock is a standard item in various thicknesses.

 

[Burrapeg]

Looks like some of Da Vinci's drawings. Someday museums will fight over the Codex Brocki.

 

[Burrapeg]

A T-shape device would simplify adding the tending pulley since the two side cheeks of the pulley would slide on either side of the stem of the T where the carabiner goes.

 

[Burrapeg]

From Online Metals. An 11 inch piece of this would make maybe half a dozen of the devices.

 

[SeanRuel]

I was thinking "the t shape makes it life support, then realized that it already is! go for the metal thing with holes t version!

 

[Brocky]

If I had more advanced skills than my hack saw and file ones, this would be something to go for. The drawing combines the three items on the left. A strap would go around the spool so that it could rotate and a Slick pin would hold the swivel part to this bridge spool strap for easy disconnect.

 

[Burrapeg]

If one is very careful and goes slowly, the aluminium T-bar can be cut off to size in an ordinary chop saw with a fine carbide blade. Then a drill press, or a large electric hand drill with the work in a vise, to drill the three holes and some filling or grinding to shape. Use a small C clamp to clamp the flange of the T-bar to the fence on the chop saw (that is to say, don't hold the T-bar by hand to cut it).

 

[Jehinten]

If I had more advanced skills than my hack saw and file ones, this would be something to go for. The drawing combines the three items on the left. A strap would go around the spool so that it could rotate and a Slick pin would hold the swivel part to this bridge spool strap for easy disconnect.
View attachment 60874

Could you use a soft shackle or something similar to connect the bridge spool and your aluminum plate? The cordage would twist creating the swivel, although not unlimited revolutions like the swivel.

The spool looks like its wood, if you wanted rated hardware you could use a bend right ring.