....

[Aerial Traveler]

vvvvvvvvvvv

 

[Z'sTrees]

Needs to be tuned properly.

 

[southsoundtree]

Check for exhaust blockage, carbon build-up.

Check fuel filter and spark plug condition.

Go buck some wood with it to run it hot.

I had a problems when I pruned a lot, with short burst of relatively cold use, starting and stopping after each cut.

 

[chiselbit]

I had a similar problem with a 193 which I eventually solved with a big hammer.

 

[Serf Life]

...then sell it and get a 355 or 2511t.

 

[chiselbit]

Problem solved!

 

[Birdyman88]

Bob, I had the same issue with my 193T when it was newer. It was embarrasing. I spent so much time tuning, would get it right, then the temp, humidity, or saw temp would change and it would be off.
I started running higher octane and re-tuned and it got better, but still problematic. Then I did a muffler mod, re-tuned, and again got better, but still problematic. Lastly, I advanced the timing by 6* 9* (remeasured it) - problem solved! It runs great for a 30cc T-handle.

You may think I'm FOS, but I had a very experienced contractor help out one day, and he brought in his older husky 550, which I admit may not have been finely tuned and chain may not have been freshly sharpened. But my 193T with 16" bar and the .043 picco micro mini was getting through the 20" logs faster than his 550. Yes, he noticed it too. Anyway, I like the 193T enough that I haven't bothered to dop dime on a 201T, but I will eventually.

 

[craneguy1]

Bump idle screw up a tad.

 

[Birdyman88]

+1 on the 2511T, great saw out of the box

My 193T was way more work though than the idle, low, and high. You could get it idled higher to solve the initial start problem, then if the saw was hot, the saw would race at idle and the chain would be spinning when the brake was released. The timing bump was the only thing that worked. Saw runs flawless now.

 

[islandarb]

The saw is gutless. Advance the timing and port muffler. Richen the H. Now you have a decent saw. Thank me later.

 

[islandarb]

Go heavy on the flywheel key. At least 50% for a CCW advance. Power will be enhanced significantly with no lag after tuning the L.

 

[Birdyman88]

Hey Bob, Here's a video of my 193T. This will give you an idea of what this saw is capable of if you want to tweak on it.

 

[Jonny]

Looks like some significant gains, well done man!

I got a 192tc stock, no complaints really but it's not exactly impressive with a 14". Wonder if it might benefit from a timing advance. I'm gonna look into it. Been meaning to open the muffler up a little anyways.

 

[Birdyman88]

Wonder if it might benefit from a timing advance.

So far I've done timing bump on three saws and it helped each one. The only ones I haven't done are the 2511T and my two m-tronics. I'm not sure what changes they made from 192 to 193, but I bet bsnelling probably has some advice on the 192. When I did the 193, he said shoot for .25" movement at outer edge of flywheel. I pulled it today to double check and I had exactly .25" which is about 8.5*. Of course, the PS3 chain was a big boost though. I had honestly never even considered that stuff on the 193.

 

[islandarb]

Looks like some significant gains, well done man!

I got a 192tc stock, no complaints really but it's not exactly impressive with a 14". Wonder if it might benefit from a timing advance. I'm gonna look into it. Been meaning to open the muffler up a little anyways.

I am a 201t guy. Fully modded. A client gave me a 192t brand new practically. I advanced the timing and ported the muffler. With a 12 inch bar and chain the saw is a singer. Do it. I shaved the flywheel key by half for CCW advance. Do it.

 

[islandarb]

Used it in a removal today. It was a fine saw till wood.

 

[islandarb]

Oh yeah cut off the plastic dogs and put on some metal dogs.

 

[islandarb]

This was a very interesting video @Birdyman88. Did you have to swap out the sprocket to run the PS3 chain?

Does anyone have a link on doing the timing advance on this model saw? It needs to be accomplished by filing the flywheel key, correct? Nothing needs done with the coil gap? Forgive my ignorance...

Yup just file half the key so that you are advancing CCW. Do not touch coil.

 

[Birdyman88]

Same sprocket on both. They are both the 3/8 Picco; aka, 3/8P, 3/8 Low Profile, 3/8LP. 3/8P comes in both .043 and .050 gauge. .043 is what is referred to as the "mini" or "narrow kerf" and only comes in semi-chisel safety (green). The .050 full chisel on there is actually the safety version with the added bumper.

Search bsnelling on the web/youtube. He has a ton of info on the advance. Just make sure you totally understand everything before you file that key. File the wrong side and you'll have to buy a new flywheel

 

[islandarb]

If you are looking at the flywheel how it is bolted on you file tbe right side so you can advance it CCW.