3 strand splice tips?

i have been studying this. should i use this method for splicing rings in the ends? http://www.machovec.com/rope/splicing/3strand_rope_chain.htm

i dont understand why it says to thin 1/3 of the strands. whats that all about? cant i just splice like normal 3 strand splices and just tuck the ends as i go without thinning the strands??
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I found this link which shows the same splice for a friction saver. I've never done it this way but it looks like it's better for smaller openings like a chain link or smaller ring.
I think the thinning of the strands after the initial tucks gives a more tapered and neater appearance to the finished splice. Plus some added strength

I need to make some friction savers for myself as well.
 
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3 or 4 tucks with well mushroomed ends to prevent untucking is what I've used.

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4 or 5 tucks are required for synthetic fibers. 3 tucks was recommended for hemp (natural fiber) ropes. I have a pic of a Buck ring spliced with the chain splice. I'll post a pic later. It's in my truck an it's raining severely right now.
 
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Nice. How are the ends terminated? Are they tapered by removing strands?

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Each strand is kept at full volume.
Strand 1 is tucked 4 times.
Strand 2 is tucked 5 times.
Strand 3 is tucked 6 times.
All 3 should end in a line separated by 1 strand. Forms a nice taper without reducing the volume of the strands. Quick, easy and pulls thru branch unions nicely.
 

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thanks norm. i really really appreciate this a ton. im going to follow the chain to rope splice making sure i have a minimal of 4 tucks for strand 1. i guess when you splice in this method you end up with 6 tucks on strand 3 anyway right?
 
I'm using it less and less. Only one 1/2" 3 strand lowering line left. Went to 1/2" Husky.
Still makin 3/8" 3 strand loops. That stuff takes a beating. Outlasts hollow braid 2 to 1, in that application (knotless rigging), and costs less.
 
Hi all,
Tapers are good, both for tight spaces and greater strength and security. And a chain-splice-type attachment to the ring is good, because you can get good strength and minimal chafe without a thimble. The longer taper might be argued as better, both because it gets narrower, and because it deforms the rope less under high load than the "Frisco taper" that Norm uses. And the crown knot start might be a little stronger than just laying the strands through the ring from either direction. But both upgrades are harder to do, and in this context unlikely to be significant.
What really matters is how smooth and flat the tucked strands are. Look at Norm's tucks, they're like ribbons, and nicely angled to the lay of the rope, where they grip the best and deform the least. That's splicing.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
 

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