192 vs 020/200

I've got one of those light weight 16" bars Stihl makes on my 200T. It's been working out great. Any one ever see a 192 take a drop from the tree? There's no chance of fixing that one. 200T's sure can take a beating, I know that.
 
yes the 020 takes a beating, but as far as dropping a saw i did it once in the eighties then i went to a saw lanyard. i cot a piece of climbing line to use till it was brought to my attention that was not such a good idea it would beat me up. So i went to the new ones that break at 200lbs of pressure. dropping any saw is to EXPENSIVE i also strap it close to my saddle when swinging a long ways not doing so beats them up as well. thanks for the input everyone i have the old school metal 020 and the newer lighter ones and now a 192 im sure i will be using them all at different times
 
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yes the 020 takes a beating, but as far as dropping a saw i did it once in the eighties then i went to a saw lanyard. i cot a piece of climbing line to use till it was brought to my attention that was not such a good idea it would beat me up. So i went to the new ones that break at 200lbs of pressure. dropping any saw is to EXPENSIVE i also strap it close to my saddle when swinging a long ways not doing so beats them up as well. thanks for the input everyone i have the old school metal 020 and the newer lighter ones and now a 192 im sure i will be using them all at different times

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Do you think the new MS200 has more power than the older magnesium cased 020 TC1?

jomoco
 
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no way the old one has more longevity and is much faster but alot heavier but that’s ok it makes for big forearms

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I agree.

The old 020's are a bit more temperimental, but still the most powerful stock climbing saw ever IMO.

jomoco
 
Buy the 200, its a workhorse & will have the power & speed when you need it. The 192 is a nice light trimming saw, but is underpowered & gets bogged down in wood. I do hate the new Lift & twist gas & oil caps...BOoooooo!
But the love affair with the old 020 will never end. never ever ever ever end.
I love you old 020, wherever you are... In scrench heaven probably, surrounded by a million old oil caps with holes in them.
 
well i used the 192 today i was happy with it. It will cut even faster once i take the file to it. factory edge sucks. but overall i liked it nice and lite and a heck of allot more power than the worthless 19t, which i think will be spending more time by my log splitter for stubborn pieces or trimming along the fence line. The last time i had it up i wanted to throw it out of the tree. I just wanted a saw that was fast enough to give my 020 a break and it looks like i found it
 
your not reading kid nobody is saying it does . it is a great saw for its weight and has it place like every other tool as far as the 19 dont think i will take that up again that will be on ground for limbing or workin by logsplitter.
 
for those of us that suffer tennis or pitcher's elbow, i suggest 200t and lifetime prescription for FELDENE. after years of tendonitisis from a 020, the anti-inflammatory FELDENE is a god-sent 3 or 4 pill a week habit for me. i push my elbows with alot of left or worse one right-handin and then it takes months to heal without help. so 200t and a good anti-inflammatory is where i'm at
 
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Further more, the 200 is not that much heavier, and if it is just a light pruning job, nut up and make a few bigger cuts with a handsaw and dont carry a chainsaw at all. A great climber who contract climbs for us from time to time, who worked for Noel Boyer in years past got me started on this, and it is actually faster and less fatigue than carrying a chainsaw at all.

So my opinion is that a 200 is all you really need, and if it is a simple deadwooding, thin out on a tree you are better off to just use a good handsaw anyways.

Derrick Hulsey
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That's your opinion, Derrick.

However, I'd surmise that 6.5 versus 7.9 lb is a big difference. And it is. I love the weight of the 192....


But, as all who have read my posts know, I'm not much into running stock saws...and do find the
192T quite gutless.

That's why mine are either muffler ported or woods modded--(engine work) I also have a new bone stock one, and when I get around to it, will video some timed cuts....The ported saw will be about 40% faster, and will keep up with a 200t which still has the screen installed.

I agree, handsaws for most pruning are great.
 
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Anyone have any tips or places to look for info on modding the 192?

Chris

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Hey Chris, it really depends on what you want to do with the saw. If you want a simple mod that you can do with a "dremel" then just measure the area of the exhaust port at the cylinder. In other words, pull off the muffler, get some calipers and measure the dimensions of the exhaust port. It's oval shaped, so you'll have to estimate a bit.

Once you're confident you have the area measured accurately, then you'll want to open up the muffler and take out any internal baffles. Then, make the opening of the muffler about 85% of the area of the exhaust port.

So, if the exhaust port is 200 square millimeters (10mm x 20mm) then make the muffler opening 170 sq. mm.

You can go bigger than this, maybe even up to 125% of the exhaust port size but then the problem becomes that the noise level goes up quite a bit. If you're at all concerned about being able to hear your groundmen yelling at you while the saw is running, it might be best to go with the 85% value first to see how that noise level affects work place safety.

Going forward from a simple muffler mod requires measuring port timing, squish and spark advance to see how these things can be optimized without sacrificing longevity.

One thing is for sure, more power means more fuel consumption, so you'll be sending the saw down from the tree to be refueled more frequently, but then maybe the quicker cuts will compensate for that? I don't think anyone has done a controlled study to measure these effects.

Bob

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Chris, there's no baffles in a 192 muffler, and, if there were, you couldn't access them short of cutting the can open.

I hog out the inner hole, then, open the deflector by grinding the inner edge, and the outer as much as I can and still have the gases deflecting somewhat downward. Then, bend the outer edge out a bit as well. Gains will be about 20%.

On both of my modded ones, I ground tne inner hole all the way to its edges, as the deflector is the real limiter. But, the deflector screw sometimes rattles out, and the deflector is lost. This makes the saw too loud, but even faster. Even though the hole size ratio is way too large, it's clear that the reduced back pressure is not limiting power. But the noise is excessive. Just need to lightly weld that screw to lock it.
 
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I love the weight of the 192T, or lack thereof.

But I won't run them stock. One of mine is fully woods ported, and is darned close to a stock 200T in speed, in small wood. The other just has a muffler mod, and is quite peppy. The third is bone stock, and isn't in use till needed.

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I'd love to give that a shot Roger, did you do the mods or send it out?

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See my post two back, Jim!!

By the way, I just got a new 346NE, and had a new to me builder mod it....it seems to beat my ehp 5100S, and is 54% faster than stock!!
 
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nah!!! but, a kick start for the 880 would be nice.

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I'll second that. Everytime I have mine in the back of my pickup I get mad because I've got more horsepower in the bed of my truck then I do under the hood
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I run the 3120 it does have a comp release but it is still a bear pisses all over the sthl though if you are going to be a bear be a grizzly i ma pretty disappointed with the sthl saws except for the toppers the new saws don’t last so im trying husky its weird sthl makes the fastest little saw husky makes the fastest big saw
 
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