192 vs 020/200
- Thread starter treeclimber1
- Start date
- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
No comparison. The 200 is the only way to go imho. But, different strokes for different folks.
Derrick Hulsey
Derrick Hulsey
- Location
- North of Boston
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I just can't get over the plastic dawgs on the 192, for that reason I never turned my head towards one.
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they offer steel dogs as an option. no need for steel dogs if all the saw is being used for is pruning, as it was designed for.
I just can't get over the plastic dawgs on the 192, for that reason I never turned my head towards one.
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they offer steel dogs as an option. no need for steel dogs if all the saw is being used for is pruning, as it was designed for.
jim454
Participating member
- Location
- The land of Utopia
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I love the weight of the 192T, or lack thereof.
But I won't run them stock. One of mine is fully woods ported, and is darned close to a stock 200T in speed, in small wood. The other just has a muffler mod, and is quite peppy. The third is bone stock, and isn't in use till needed.
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I'd love to give that a shot Roger, did you do the mods or send it out?
I love the weight of the 192T, or lack thereof.
But I won't run them stock. One of mine is fully woods ported, and is darned close to a stock 200T in speed, in small wood. The other just has a muffler mod, and is quite peppy. The third is bone stock, and isn't in use till needed.
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I'd love to give that a shot Roger, did you do the mods or send it out?
- Location
- Longmont, CO
Hmmm... I don't have a 192, but it sounds like I should get one for the pruning jobs. I'm glad this thread came up!
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
I gave it a test run without the screen and it sounded awhole lot better. Tomorrow I will hopefully get a chance to cut a bit with it.
And sometime soon I'd like to mod my muffler with a dremel like Roger suggested on the tree house. That should really open it up!!
And sometime soon I'd like to mod my muffler with a dremel like Roger suggested on the tree house. That should really open it up!!
- Location
- Portland, OR
Is there any difference in a 192 T and 192 T C-E?
- Location
- North of Boston
Yes EZ Start. The 192T is only availble in the C-E version now.
- Location
- Portland, OR
I just bought one yesterday. The manual says 192 T, on the body of the saw it say 192 TC. Wonder if I got the older model. It seemed pretty easy to start, but I didn't try any slow pulls. Dealer is closed today.
- Location
- North of Boston
Pic?
The manuals may be the same....I would have to look.
The manuals may be the same....I would have to look.
- Location
- Bay Area, California
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The short answer. No
The longer answer. Doesn't have enough power especially since you already own a 200t. Seems like a waste of money. I've got two at work and we use em as paper weights on windy days so that the work orders don't blow away
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No way... way off on this one.
192 is a fantastic pruning saw. Throw on a composite bar, remove the spark arrestor and you have a winner.
Power is not much of an issue if you are using the saw for the right job. Plenty of power if used as it is made to be used.
Why carry around a heavier saw if you are only pruning? Plus, you can save the 200 for the heavier work. Get both, they complement each other well.
The short answer. No
The longer answer. Doesn't have enough power especially since you already own a 200t. Seems like a waste of money. I've got two at work and we use em as paper weights on windy days so that the work orders don't blow away
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No way... way off on this one.
192 is a fantastic pruning saw. Throw on a composite bar, remove the spark arrestor and you have a winner.
Power is not much of an issue if you are using the saw for the right job. Plenty of power if used as it is made to be used.
Why carry around a heavier saw if you are only pruning? Plus, you can save the 200 for the heavier work. Get both, they complement each other well.
- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
Further more, the 200 is not that much heavier, and if it is just a light pruning job, nut up and make a few bigger cuts with a handsaw and dont carry a chainsaw at all. A great climber who contract climbs for us from time to time, who worked for Noel Boyer in years past got me started on this, and it is actually faster and less fatigue than carrying a chainsaw at all.
So my opinion is that a 200 is all you really need, and if it is a simple deadwooding, thin out on a tree you are better off to just use a good handsaw anyways.
Derrick Hulsey
So my opinion is that a 200 is all you really need, and if it is a simple deadwooding, thin out on a tree you are better off to just use a good handsaw anyways.
Derrick Hulsey
I purchased a 192 for personal use and for side work as my budget for side jobs is limited. I changed over to a 12" bar and got rid of the pico chain and have been pleased with it so far. It is light yes and I like was mentioned do not carry a chainsaw unless it is necessary. I make as many handsaw cuts as possible.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
[ QUOTE ]
Further more, the 200 is not that much heavier, and if it is just a light pruning job, nut up and make a few bigger cuts with a handsaw and dont carry a chainsaw at all. A great climber who contract climbs for us from time to time, who worked for Noel Boyer in years past got me started on this, and it is actually faster and less fatigue than carrying a chainsaw at all.
So my opinion is that a 200 is all you really need, and if it is a simple deadwooding, thin out on a tree you are better off to just use a good handsaw anyways.
Derrick Hulsey
[/ QUOTE ]
I almost agree 100%... actually, I do agree 100% but... I hate cutting dead oak with a handsaw. I would rather climb without a chainsaw any day and prefer to prune without one but damned if I'll go after a several dead 4 and 5 inchers with a handsaw, I pull up the 200.
If you can only afford one climbing saw and you takedown trees where you'll be cutting large diameter stem wood (topping pines, blocking trunks), get a 200T.
Further more, the 200 is not that much heavier, and if it is just a light pruning job, nut up and make a few bigger cuts with a handsaw and dont carry a chainsaw at all. A great climber who contract climbs for us from time to time, who worked for Noel Boyer in years past got me started on this, and it is actually faster and less fatigue than carrying a chainsaw at all.
So my opinion is that a 200 is all you really need, and if it is a simple deadwooding, thin out on a tree you are better off to just use a good handsaw anyways.
Derrick Hulsey
[/ QUOTE ]
I almost agree 100%... actually, I do agree 100% but... I hate cutting dead oak with a handsaw. I would rather climb without a chainsaw any day and prefer to prune without one but damned if I'll go after a several dead 4 and 5 inchers with a handsaw, I pull up the 200.
If you can only afford one climbing saw and you takedown trees where you'll be cutting large diameter stem wood (topping pines, blocking trunks), get a 200T.
- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
Blinky I agree. What is it about oak deadwood that makes it such a biotch to cut with a handsaw. Maybe I am just a big vajayjay!!!! Hahahaha!!! Anyways oak dead wood is always a pain. But my Ibuki is the answer for it!!! WHOWAWAWAWA!!!!
Derrick Hulsey
Derrick Hulsey
- Location
- Orange, MA
[ QUOTE ]
Blinky I agree. What is it about oak deadwood that makes it such a biotch to cut with a handsaw. Maybe I am just a big vajayjay!!!! Hahahaha!!! Anyways oak dead wood is always a pain. But my Ibuki is the answer for it!!! WHOWAWAWAWA!!!!
Derrick Hulsey
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Dont feel bad. I'll lug around "the boat anchor" as I've seen it referred to at one time if I have to go up some big red oak and take out a few honkers. You better believe its sliding back down the rope the second those big pieces are cut though.
Personally, I like to have all my own gear, even if its just for personal side use every now and then. I've learned time and time again its easier, and cheaper, to just "do it right" the first time. As such, I took my experiences with equipment at work, and got myself a 460 and 200T as my own toys.
Blinky I agree. What is it about oak deadwood that makes it such a biotch to cut with a handsaw. Maybe I am just a big vajayjay!!!! Hahahaha!!! Anyways oak dead wood is always a pain. But my Ibuki is the answer for it!!! WHOWAWAWAWA!!!!
Derrick Hulsey
[/ QUOTE ]
Dont feel bad. I'll lug around "the boat anchor" as I've seen it referred to at one time if I have to go up some big red oak and take out a few honkers. You better believe its sliding back down the rope the second those big pieces are cut though.
Personally, I like to have all my own gear, even if its just for personal side use every now and then. I've learned time and time again its easier, and cheaper, to just "do it right" the first time. As such, I took my experiences with equipment at work, and got myself a 460 and 200T as my own toys.
Anyone have any tips or places to look for info on modding the 192?
Chris
Chris
- Location
- Portland, OR
[ QUOTE ]
Yes EZ Start. The 192T is only availble in the C-E version now.
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Boston Bull, talked to Stihl today. My 192TC has the Easy2Start "E" feature, but the "E" does not show on the nameplate. In 2008 you could purchase it with or without EZ start. Even tho in 2009 it's only offered with EZ start, they gave me the 2008 manual that covers both. "C" is for comfort, but I never found out where that comes in.
Yes EZ Start. The 192T is only availble in the C-E version now.
[/ QUOTE ]
Boston Bull, talked to Stihl today. My 192TC has the Easy2Start "E" feature, but the "E" does not show on the nameplate. In 2008 you could purchase it with or without EZ start. Even tho in 2009 it's only offered with EZ start, they gave me the 2008 manual that covers both. "C" is for comfort, but I never found out where that comes in.
- Location
- North of Boston
Yes in late '08 they changed the 192, and 192T. The worst part is NorthEast Stihl didn't tell their dealers, so we were as surprised as the consumer!
No E because, as I was told by my rep, the EZ2Start system is different than in other saws with EZ2Start. This is a simpler version with the "Pro"sumer in mind......?
The "C"omfort part is the elasto start handle.
No E because, as I was told by my rep, the EZ2Start system is different than in other saws with EZ2Start. This is a simpler version with the "Pro"sumer in mind......?
The "C"omfort part is the elasto start handle.
- Location
- eastern MA
[ QUOTE ]
Anyone have any tips or places to look for info on modding the 192?
Chris
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Hey Chris, it really depends on what you want to do with the saw. If you want a simple mod that you can do with a "dremel" then just measure the area of the exhaust port at the cylinder. In other words, pull off the muffler, get some calipers and measure the dimensions of the exhaust port. It's oval shaped, so you'll have to estimate a bit.
Once you're confident you have the area measured accurately, then you'll want to open up the muffler and take out any internal baffles. Then, make the opening of the muffler about 85% of the area of the exhaust port.
So, if the exhaust port is 200 square millimeters (10mm x 20mm) then make the muffler opening 170 sq. mm.
You can go bigger than this, maybe even up to 125% of the exhaust port size but then the problem becomes that the noise level goes up quite a bit. If you're at all concerned about being able to hear your groundmen yelling at you while the saw is running, it might be best to go with the 85% value first to see how that noise level affects work place safety.
Going forward from a simple muffler mod requires measuring port timing, squish and spark advance to see how these things can be optimized without sacrificing longevity.
One thing is for sure, more power means more fuel consumption, so you'll be sending the saw down from the tree to be refueled more frequently, but then maybe the quicker cuts will compensate for that? I don't think anyone has done a controlled study to measure these effects.
Bob
Anyone have any tips or places to look for info on modding the 192?
Chris
[/ QUOTE ]
Hey Chris, it really depends on what you want to do with the saw. If you want a simple mod that you can do with a "dremel" then just measure the area of the exhaust port at the cylinder. In other words, pull off the muffler, get some calipers and measure the dimensions of the exhaust port. It's oval shaped, so you'll have to estimate a bit.
Once you're confident you have the area measured accurately, then you'll want to open up the muffler and take out any internal baffles. Then, make the opening of the muffler about 85% of the area of the exhaust port.
So, if the exhaust port is 200 square millimeters (10mm x 20mm) then make the muffler opening 170 sq. mm.
You can go bigger than this, maybe even up to 125% of the exhaust port size but then the problem becomes that the noise level goes up quite a bit. If you're at all concerned about being able to hear your groundmen yelling at you while the saw is running, it might be best to go with the 85% value first to see how that noise level affects work place safety.
Going forward from a simple muffler mod requires measuring port timing, squish and spark advance to see how these things can be optimized without sacrificing longevity.
One thing is for sure, more power means more fuel consumption, so you'll be sending the saw down from the tree to be refueled more frequently, but then maybe the quicker cuts will compensate for that? I don't think anyone has done a controlled study to measure these effects.
Bob
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