044 Carb Rebuild--baseline settings??

CRL

CRL

New member
I have just attempted my first carb rebuild and I am having fits getting my 044 to start and run. I have set idle, low, and high speed screws all at 1 turn CCW from seat. The best I have gotten is for it to run sluggishly with choke partially open. It dies quickly when I hit the throttle. If I could get it to idle, I think I would have a reasonably good chance at getting it dialed in appropriately, but it isn't running/idling well enough to do so. My hunch is my baseline settings are off, and I have fiddled some but with no luck. Any suggestions?
 
1 & 1 should get you close. I just redid an 036 and they are the exact setting I used to do the initial startup.

Double check that the fuel lines did not get pinched.
Make sure all the linkages are moving freely.
If all that looks good pull the carb off and make sure it was all put back together correctly and butterfly is moving freely.

What made you rebuild the carb?
 
monkeylove said:
1 & 1 should get you close. I just redid an 036 and they are the exact setting I used to do the initial startup.

Double check that the fuel lines did not get pinched.
Make sure all the linkages are moving freely.
If all that looks good pull the carb off and make sure it was all put back together correctly and butterfly is moving freely.

What made you rebuild the carb?
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The 2nd to the last time I used it, it ran and cut very well. It tore through the trunk wood and stump cut of a 32" dbh basswood. Next time I went to use it, it started, I made it part way through a cut on 20"dbh sugar maple and it died. Struggled to get it to start. Eventually got it fire up once more, it quickly died, and then no go. Then I tried starting it the following day-- nothing doing. Spark plugs was bone dry---blackish brown in color. Compression is 110 psi, which I would tend to think is low. Piston and cylinder appear from exhaust side to not have any vertical scoring. They seem smooth and shiny from my perspective, but this is the first saw I have gone down this road with. I have consistent spark. My hunch was fuel delivery issue. Also changed fuel filter and have attempted to clean out tank vent hose with spring in it. Carb rebuild included new diaphragm, needle, spring, etc., carb cleaner throughout, light poke through of accessible holes with welding tip cleaner, removal and cleaning of adjustment screws. Air filter is used but is decently clean. I have only used nonoxy mixed 50:1.
 
Pull the spark plug out and give it a few pulls with the choke on. You should smell the gas or see the top of the piston getting wet. There is still a chance that either the coil is bad, sparks cold but none when the motor heats up. You have spark when the ignition is on, and no spark when it is off correct?
 
did you get the metering needle thingy dialed in? I screwed up on that part when I did mine, so I took it into a shop.
 
monkeylove said:
Pull the spark plug out and give it a few pulls with the choke on. You should smell the gas or see the top of the piston getting wet. There is still a chance that either the coil is bad, sparks cold but none when the motor heats up. You have spark when the ignition is on, and no spark when it is off correct?
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Pulled the plug and pulled with choke open per your suggestion, seems like top of piston is dry. Also, linkages seem to be working correctly. Consistent spark when ignition switch is on, no spark when off. To me this seems to be pointing to fuel delivery. I'm wondering if a new fuel line, impulse line, and intake boot would be in order. Also an aftermarket carb is really a pretty cheap option. Thoughts on order for these potential next steps? Do they seem logical or am I missing something?
 
evo said:
did you get the metering needle thingy dialed in? I screwed up on that part when I did mine, so I took it into a shop.
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Are you talking about the little needle under the spring loaded lever pushed by diaphragm? I think I got it right, but no guarantee, this is my first time doing a rebuild so I don't have much to base it on. Do you know what went wrong when you did it?
 
CRL said:
Are you talking about the little needle under the spring loaded lever pushed by diaphragm? I think I got it right, but no guarantee, this is my first time doing a rebuild so I don't have much to base it on. Do you know what went wrong when you did it?
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When you check compression does it hold? If the carb and such are good then it sounds like it there is no vacuum to pull the fuel in.

Great series of vids
Steve's Small Engine Saloon
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpqca7L2YYDN-BIHUQ2TfAA
 
CRL said:
Are you talking about the little needle under the spring loaded lever pushed by diaphragm? I think I got it right, but no guarantee, this is my first time doing a rebuild so I don't have much to base it on. Do you know what went wrong when you did it?
Click to expand...
Yep.. this needs to be adjusted correctly when rebuilding. I skipped it, because I didn’t replace those parts. Somehow it was not adjusted properly which didn’t allow proper fuel flow. It took a lot of adjusting to get it to kinda idle and sputter. Never flooded, hard and rare to even get it to sputter.
The shop said it was just the metering needle, hit me with a small bill and I was in business. There is a little metal tab, which you put a gauge on and bend it into adjustment.
Good luck and once you fix it don’t forget to post a follow up to let us know what it was! That is a pet peeve when searching car and truck forums, plenty of advise and suggestions then no follow up!
 
This little thing, and while we are in there make sure the large metal disk is in carb. It pushes on metering lever. The 2nd pic shows the correct way. Little disk outward.
upload_2018-5-3_14-12-34.webp upload_2018-5-3_14-14-25.webp
 
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evo said:
Yep.. this needs to be adjusted correctly when rebuilding. I skipped it, because I didn’t replace those parts. Somehow it was not adjusted properly which didn’t allow proper fuel flow. It took a lot of adjusting to get it to kinda idle and sputter. Never flooded, hard and rare to even get it to sputter.
The shop said it was just the metering needle, hit me with a small bill and I was in business. There is a little metal tab, which you put a gauge on and bend it into adjustment.
Good luck and once you fix it don’t forget to post a follow up to let us know what it was! That is a pet peeve when searching car and truck forums, plenty of advise and suggestions then no follow up!
Click to expand...
I think you are on to something with this. I will update when I get a chance to work on it next. Appreciate the insight!
 
monkeylove said:
This little thing, and while we are in there make sure the large metal disk is in carb. It pushes on metering lever. The 2nd pic shows the correct way. Little disk outward.
View attachment 51425 View attachment 51427
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Thanks. I got the diaphragm in right, but I think that lever is suspect. Also, regarding holding compression-- I was borrowing the tester, so I would have to check again regarding this. I appreciate your insight.
 
I worked with needle lever a bit. I'm quite certain it wasn't allowing the needle to lift enough before. I have it so it seems like it is lifting with the diaphragm, but I still don't think it is quite right. I don't have the gauges to check and it still isn't starting and running. I think I am going to order a new carb and a gauge. Hopefully the new carb will get me going and the gauge may help me get this one fixed.
 
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