The hitch can be made to multitask, no tending pulleys, or other device needed, and eliminates the cost for spliced, or sewn eyes. The concept works with many friction hitches. An overhand stopper is shown, use what you consider a safe option.
Maybe see if you can get the fuzzy section of cover to milk past the possible bulge in the core. If there is no bulge in the core, it looks like too much of the Nomex, which could be tucked back under the cover. A bulge in the core might not be good, or correctable.
SOLD OUT—H3 Tech 11-Has a 12 strand hollow braid technora core, $3 a foot, -NOW 2.00 A FOOT——SOLD OUT
SOLD OUT-CanyonTech-$1.20 a foot on the left- SOLD OUT
SOLD OUT——CanyonLine-$1.10 a foot on the right, more like 10mm when compared to other ropes -NOW $1.00 A FOOT—— SOLD OUT...
I haven’t found a way of adding something to the hitch to dissipate heat, only devices away from it, like figure 8s, belay tubes, carabiner for a Munter, etc. Another option are things directly below the hitch, the ATS with its horns gives multiply ways of adding friction without having to open...
@Muggs, I tried that out, it worked pretty good a first, but started to bind up with use. The ring would move upward when hand tending to push the top wrap.
Using the rebraid method with a fid and a half bury on double eye hitch cords, I found there was a loss of 40% of the cords break strength. The Tuck-Bury splice only loses around 2% for an end to end pull on a double eye, a loop tested at 1 1/2 the cords strength.
Not a Mobius locked brummel...
It was the polyester core and half of the cover that failed, and were replaced with the high modulus that have solved the problem.
A look at the cores of the Beeline and HRC show they are braided differently, the longer the braids the stronger it is.