One time after limbing out this maple I was getting ready to drop the spar and I notched it out and then I had to re-notch it because it was off to one side about an inch too much. That was a tough day. :burlas:
Oh man, that clip is gold! Daniel do you travel with a film crew? Extra trailer for them? Food services? You have so much video of your work I don't know how you have the time to do all the actual tree work that it is obvious that you do! Thanks for sharing. I think your footage will...
So the 3' stone wall was right up against the 22" dbh tree. I was not confident enough in my ability to use the narrow notches or jump cuts with the step cut. I stood on the wall and cut a traditional notch, relatively shallow about 7' off the ground, dropped it right over the wall by an inch...
Also figured out today that narrow notches require even greater observance as the distance they travel is reduced so the timing and speed of the backcut has to be even more precise, (with regards to how much of a hinge is wanted or when/how to cut through the hinge if that is desired). Bringing...
Love that oak topping... bridged the road with the cushion logs beautifully. I noticed how the pull line went up and over and was tied lower down on the top.... i'm wondering if that enables a greater distance throw since at a certain point as the piece tilts down the pull on the rope is kind...
When I first saw the tree, I had figured for whatever reason that I would need to lower the whole thing, especially since there was a stone wall directly below it running next to it. Then somehow I got to fantasizing about dropping the whole tree by jumping it over the wall. That's when I...
I thought that might have been it. I wouldn't have ever thought a backstrap could be dialed in enough to know when it will fail, I always thought they had a lot of holding strength. Regardless, the method in the video is not what I want to utilize, I have neither the experience nor the area...
Yeah if he had parked a brand new pickup under it... :guitarra:
So I'm still trying to figure out the order of operations for the pine as it was felled... was the backstrap from the bore cut left on?
What is the best way to get the cut end of a tree to, as it lays flat, "jump forward off the stump with the most distance" while felling it? What would be the best way to get a vertical piece at height to jump away from the bole (and lay flat)? I'm guessing it may be the same method. I pose...
Just for my own conception of the injury, if it were to be mechanical and the bark had been covering it for a long time, do you think we are talking blunt force trauma? Something that was not immediately visible in the tree when it happened but over time the injury manifested, wound wood grew...
The bark has recently begun to peel away from this damage, I am trying to figure out what the cause is. It looks like mechanical damage to me... i am standing on a relatively new looking deck as I take these photos looking out into the backyard... maybe during construction the damage occurred...
Just some thoughts...
I think it's important to remember that there is a reason they deem it a "safe" working load. I have confidence that it has been determined so through empirical data. If regularly using 50% of MBS was safe, they (manufacturers) would deem it so.
However you mention one...