Wait for the ice to get thick.. Stack some logs and crib the wall, dump it on the ice
Or wait for thick ice and put equipment out there... over a foot thick should be good even for a small crane, the army corps had ice thickness charts to go for with a guide
The bigshot, triple thimble and bigshot trigger are all notch (or it's predecessors) ideas/ products. I'm assuming the jet step was an original idea worked on in conjunction with harken, and id hazard a guess the rook/ hydra was done similarly
Id say that those were all meaningful contributions
Before I knew any better I used to climb without a climbing line... just 2 lanyards, gaffed out about 30 feet up in a bean pole silver maple and rode it almost to the ground with my lanyard. Caught me about 5 feet from the dirt. Took my belt from around my waist up to around my arm pits and...
Thats a fair point. I climb in the north east us and rotate ropes in the winter to allow them to dry and avoid most freezing issues.
It does bring up my next question though, with devices like the i.d. where running the device without a brake hand below it is against manufacturers instructions...
I've climbed with multiple different systems combinations, and add long as you're semi proficient with each of them on their own, it's not an issue at all. Even things as different as the akimbo, hitch hiker and zigzag/chicane your brain and hands just intuitively make it work smoothly. Even...
looks like the geometry needs to be changed for better form on the pedals... and the further out you lean the more force and friction you're going to put on whatever rollers they have to go up the tree
This part right here is really concerning to me. The way I'm reading it, you need 2 systems at all times, meaning if you want to move one, you need to install a 3rd, so you can uninstall and move one of the others... Unless a lanyard is going to count as a "system" in which case, why wouldn't 2...
I used to use an omni block and a carabiner on a piece of webbing, which was great. Midline attachable, retrieved with a knot, and everything was captured in one piece so there was nothing to drop. I noticed it needed a bit of a bigger crotch to retrieve reliably from, not adjustable (not really...
My guess is they were pulling it one way and the tree went a different direction. If the pull rope went on the other side of a nearby tree, you essentially end up with the a falling tree on one side of a redirect and a worker on the other and the person gets yanked hard.
Not the best...
Why not take a double braid rigging ring and ring double it over and either hand stitch or whip and seize pockets down the length of it. If the stitching fails it'll all hit the double over bend at the end of the rope keeping any catastrophic failures during testing from really being bad
Our rear mounts usually run lightly stocked, trading extra tool box space for yard matt storage. Tools usually roll in a dedicated chip truck for the crew
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2MF3HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fits a gopro mount, uses gopro batteries or recharges with a micro usb plug. Lasts several hours, and has a great wash of light so you don't get jarring shadows when you're working up close. Not so...
I'd be willing to bet that a part of the decision stems from not many being sold either.... just about every time they come up in conversation someone recommends something different, same thing happens with the thunder sling.
I have heard about bent side plates though
My vote is for the triple thimble over the safebloc. It adds about half a porta wrap wrap in friction
As for wear, I have a couple anodized and a couple non anodized and I've never seen noticable wear (granted I'm not blasting down big wood every day)
Took me a few days to get a suitably necessary tree and the video edited. Basically set it up to show it in action, and because it was an easy way to keep the log out of the drainage ditch.
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