I find that there are a lot of factors that go into keeping your spikes tight on your boot but no matter what adjustments I make, within 15 minutes of a removal I'll have them come loose from the middle of my boot and start sitting awkwardly on the heel or slipping off entirely sometimes. It's...
I also experienced similar power between low and high on the MSA 300. I actually couldn't tell a difference except that the battery drained faster in high. I stopped fiddling with the power settings because I couldn't tell I'll have to keep experimenting to see which bogs more.
I'm so curious if the canola is any different to the green eco oil stihl sells. I'm going to start running one of our older saws with it and paying attention to it.
This winter the coldest we worked was maybe 0° F but I barely noticed much of a difference in run time honestly, and with 10 batteries it didn't matter, it's less of a hassle to switch batteries than pour gasoline in my opinion. I haven't tried charging outside.
*Edited a spelling mistake
My company runs all battery tophandles for 2 crews and each truck has at least one rear handled MSA 220 as well. We also bought the MSA 300 this last summer.
I think it's interesting hearing your experience with limited batteries, we have a total of 10 or 11 batteries so each crew has at least...
Thanks for sharing your experience, I was under the impression the uniformity of tooth length wasn't important if you use a progressive gauge but recently have noticed on some chain that was lopsided it still cut crooked after sharpening with may teeth on one side noticeably longer.
When I...
For those who use a progressive depth gauge to file the rakers such as the west coast saw or husqvarna tools, does it make the length of the teeth obsolete or do you find it's still important to have the teeth be similar in size to cut straight.
Referring to this tool:
Stihl 3/8" pitch chain recommends the 5.16 mm round files but I've always used the 5.5 mm for all the Oregon 3/8" chain I'm used to. I have a lot of 5.5mm files from a recent ebay purchase and was wondering how the 5.16 chain cuts after a 5.5 filing.
Just wondering if anyone has a file brand that is better value than the stihl files I get from the dealership. My old shop used to buy them in bulk but I forgot the brand and I'm tired of spending so much on the little 3 packs stihl sells. Worried about it being significantly crappier metal...
I'm looking for a knot/bend/hitch that ties two ropes together by their ends, can be very heavily loaded, and then untied easily.
I have used two bowlines in the past a couple times before I learned the Zeppelin Bend, recently had the Zeppelin bind down on me very hard after a very hard pull...
I'm an employee and only do about 6-8 side jobs per year on weekends mostly for family. I just bought it for stuff like that. Love the saw and it's been consistent for me since I got it last fall.
Just curious whether a 2511 can hold up to daily production work for an extended period of time. I own one that's ported and someone I work with poo pooed it. I don't personally use it more than once a month I am just curious.
I can be slow to understand so bear with me (or don't, that's fine too lol) but by this definition are the pig tails and the two prongs just above the winch not the fairleads in this situation? Both of those parts keep the rope angle entering and exiting the winch drum consistent for every rig...
I've only had to use 3 wraps while lowering huge hardwood logs after having pretensioned them with the winch. This is from one summer's experience rigging every day with the GRCS, most of my career has been just portawrap and crane, so I'm relatively new to it myself. My company has the rule of...
I'm interested to learn this isn't other people's experiences, but in my mind, less than 1% of pieces even require 3 wraps to lower anyway, so to me it made sense this was an uncommon thing to even have to worry about.