Basswood
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Long island
Correct. I guess to alleviate that you could have a long lanyard to a sling but even the crazy safety centric company I work for doesn’t have us do anything like that.
Stupid stitches-Cut resistant gloves?
- Thread starter macrocarpa
- Start date
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
I do it for my personal pole, but that's because I don't wanna take chances with my carbon fiber pole.
Brando CalPankian
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Pine City, MN
Are they warm?
Brando CalPankian
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Pine City, MN
What brand?
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
Castellari, available through Arbsession. I really like that you can swap between the saw head and the pruner. It's an anvil style pruner, but it has a 4:1 pulley system, so it makes 1"+ Oak cuts without much effort, and will definitely cut hard stuff at max diameter. I am also a big fan of the locking system for the extensions, as they are infinitely adjustable. Stiffer than fiberglass, and sooooo lightweight.
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
not too warm, but warmer than the maxiflex
flushcut
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Delavan, WI
Ouch!! I’m glad it wasn’t worse.
I don't find them warm at all. They do make a winter version with a fleecy lining, but I find them bulky. I find all winter gloves bulky though.
I don't like the cheap nitrile that peels when it gets caught in stuff. These ones have never peeled. The nitrile simply wears away over time.
I never used to be a glove guy. Went barehanded for years in all conditions. Then a couple of years ago my hands got pretty cut up doing a dead spruce removal. I wore a pair of gloves the next day and never looked back. The lady friend appreciates it too.
The Green One
Participating member
- Location
- Frenchtown
Short Track Cut Resistant Gloves
Stay protected with the Short Track Cut-Proof Glove by Bont. Engineered for maximum safety and comfort, this glove features durable, cut-resistant materials ideal for ice speed skaters. Enhance your performance with reliable protection during every race.
bont.com
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
oooooh, those look nice. I'm skeptical at $20 though. Do they last long enough to justify that?Short Track Cut Resistant Gloves
Stay protected with the Short Track Cut-Proof Glove by Bont. Engineered for maximum safety and comfort, this glove features durable, cut-resistant materials ideal for ice speed skaters. Enhance your performance with reliable protection during every race.
Brando CalPankian
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Pine City, MN
Good to know. Always looking for better tools. Are the fiberglass poles stiff?
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
HELL NO! they are so fucking bendy past 8', I never considered them for a second. Aluminum is stiffer still, but of course the heaviest option. I had tried the aluminum with silky blades in the tree, as well as the good ol' Jamo's, so when I was ready to buy myself a pole, I decided that carbon would probably be worth the money. Exactly zero regrets. even pulled in to 8', my pole is not much heavier than a fiberglass 8' section.
Brando CalPankian
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Pine City, MN
My hands run super hot. I wear the thinnest gloves possible through winter and ditch them when it's 25°f. But everyone else's hands get cold. Lol
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
You try the maxiflex? they have endorsements from some dermatological organization and are supposed to be the least "hot and stuffy"
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I almost always use my silky longboy in the tree. Use a zipline sling as a lanyard and let it hang below me, or I hang it pretty far out with the blade facing away or closed. It’s a short pole saw and the blade folds.
Cut resistant gloves like Kevlar atlas are ‘resistant’ kinda to saw blades. The teeth will still puncture and rip flesh, but you won’t get such a big gash (mostly on the glove and maybe a smidge smaller on the flesh.)
The only gloves that would be sufficiently resistant will be epically cumbersome like thick leather, or heavy lined.
Cut resistant gloves like Kevlar atlas are ‘resistant’ kinda to saw blades. The teeth will still puncture and rip flesh, but you won’t get such a big gash (mostly on the glove and maybe a smidge smaller on the flesh.)
The only gloves that would be sufficiently resistant will be epically cumbersome like thick leather, or heavy lined.
The Green One
Participating member
- Location
- Frenchtown
Dyneema is pretty dang tough!
And you can't beat their cost as demand is so low in that sport, if you compare to tree work.
Try a pair!
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
It's not the dyneema that worries me, but the grip material. if it wears off too quickly in just a couple of key spots, then It gets really hard to grap a rope. I bet dyneema exacerbates that problem. that said, dyneema lets it be very thin and still very cut resistant, so I will definitely give them a shot when the weather turns hot again.
Chris Schultz
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Minturn
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
Fucking hell! What's the story there? I'm imagining a dropped saw from straight overhead, with no lanyard. I bet a lanyard attached at the base might help to prevent that, no?
Phil
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Oak Lawn, IL
I'm pretty sure that was me. Closest I ever came to dying on a job site was related to a pole saw falling free in a tree. Nothing happened thank god but it made me reevaluate my existence.
I made a short lanyard with a 3" eye on one end and a dog snap spliced in the other out of like 1/4" tenex. I drilled a hole in the top side of the pole saw hook and put on a heavy duty keychain ring. The dog snap goes to the ring. If I need to hang it on a branch I have two choices. 1. put the lanyard over a branch and the hook through the large eye. Sort of a basket config. 2. Girth hitch the lanyard around the brand, snap goes through eye and then snap goes back to ring. If i am maneuvering in the tree and bringing the pole saw with me, the lanyard get clipped to my belt and the saw hangs below me. Scabbard stays on. I have the weaver scabbard with the quick buckle. There is also a ring riveted into the scabbard spine. If I'm using the saw, the scabbard is clipped to the lanyard and just hangs there. If I'm just advancing my rope or placing a rigging line, scabbard stays on. In all reality, I hardly ever use a pole saw anymore but I refuse to not have the scabbard on it when I do.
Is all that more work? Only when cutting, and not by much. I just have to mentally redefine what efficiently using the pole saw means. Adapt to the tool and operate in a sense of self-preservation.
Glad you didn't hit anything important in your hand. Lots of soft, fragile tissue there.
