Husqvarna T540i XP - Bar & Chain Options

That's the setup I have and am pretty happy with, but it's not a true full-chisel chain. It is a lot closer to a full-chisel than some of the very round corner semi-chisel out there, pretty close in fact, but doesn't have a true 90* edge. Semi is a little more user friendly and forgiving and maybe full is too aggressive for the saw since it isn't super powerful, I'm not sure.

Here is the Oregon I run on the T540i compared to the Stihl full-chisel I run on my 200T for example.

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00 saw teeth 2.jpg
 
@27RMT0N
Just heard about a 542i in the works. With a clutch for a real saw feel.
Just thought I’d let you tell me how you like it before I buy one, I know you will!
 
Traditionally Europe gets Huskys a year or so before we do if I'm not mistaken.

More power sounds like a plus....though = less batt life probably. I will be surprised if I want a clutch on a batt saw as I like fast start up and stop. I guess it will cut down on motor stall when chain sticks in a cut.
 
Traditionally Europe gets Huskys a year or so before we do if I'm not mistaken.

More power sounds like a plus....though = less batt life probably. I will be surprised if I want a clutch on a batt saw as I like fast start up and stop. I guess it will cut down on motor stall when chain sticks in a cut.
Yeah...I'm not sure what advantage this has on an electric saw. Seems like the 540i xp has some programming to control how the motor spins up. Interesting, though.
 
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@27RMT0N
Just heard about a 542i in the works. With a clutch for a real saw feel.
Just thought I’d let you tell me how you like it before I buy one, I know you will!

....Yah, I probably will... First I've heard about it actually, so thanks for bringing it to my attention. Honestly I'm still trying to resist the urge to impulse buy the Echo DCS-2500T every time it's like 11:30pm and I'm still up writing bids, pretending that doing so would be a 'much needed break.'

And thanks for posting that link @Arb23 , some good info there. Here are my thoughts if anyone cares:

- My number one question is if it works with the same battery and charger as the Husky system I already have. This is one major downfall of battery systems, being locked into an expensive 'ecosystem' of batteries and chargers. (the article doesn't specifically say one way or another)

- I've never had a particular issue with the T540i not spinning up fast enough, though faster is obviously better, so a plus if true.

- More power sounds great. The T540i has plenty of power for the fir limbs I mostly cut with it, but if I can go longer in the trunk wood before switching to a larger gas saw, that would be great. Being able to run a 16" bar would be wonderful, as personally I don't think the T540i has the power to do that with the wood I cut. Effect on battery life matters.

- A different clutch cover would be nice. I've never had a saw build up as much crap in it as the T540i, though to be fair I've never had it clog.

- I think an actual clutch would be a HUGE improvement. One of the biggest complaints I have with the T540i (and maybe I haven't emphasized this enough when I've talked about it) is how it just shuts itself off when you push it 'too hard'. Your cutting through a section of trunk, leaning on it a tiny bit, and it just suddenly shuts off, not letting the chain spin again until you let go of the throttle and wait a second or two. There is just no feedback before that point, it is either off or on, so if you overdo it the tiniest bit, you can be in the middle of a a cut and it just STOPS without warning. Really this is a big safety issue at critical moments of tree cutting. An actual clutch will give you some feedback like a gas saw does and let you back off just a hair in order to keep cutting without stalling it.

- The oil level sensor seems.... pointless? I know the new Sthil battery saw has one too.

- And yes, these usually come out in Europe long before America, so we shall see the timeline...
 
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I would rather see a variable speed throttle than a clutch on this, or any electric saw. Nice to tweak your cut from time to time.
I don't see how a clutch is going to help when you push too hard as it will be engaged if the motor is spinning. Now if they made one that releases when the torque gets to be more than the saw can handle, then they would have something to write home about.
 
So after almost half a year on order, Husky finally got a BLi 300 battery case to Walker's Saw Shop in Nanaimo for me (to be fair the batteries were made in Poland and guess they had other things on their minds due to unruly neighbours . . . ). Took 10 minutes to swap the old battery innerds into the new case and away I go. Click click. No more electrical tape trying to hold the battery in the saw anymore. It wasn't anything with the saw but the battery clips on the case (even thought they looked fine). So thanks to John Walker for hanging in there for me all this time. Great customer support.
 
I have a battery I ruined by letting it get submerged in a box during winter storm. I'm going to take it apart and save casing for when (probably not if) I break a battery someday.
 
Great idea - come to think of it - if I was a production shop I might order a couple of spare battery cases for the battery size (BLi 200 or BLi 300) I was using, when I order a saw(s), just to have 'em kicking around in case something bad happens in clipland. As capital spares and considering they're seemingly long lead items, for only about $60 to $70 apiece, it'd be good insurance maybe. Just a thought.
 
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So after almost half a year on order, Husky finally got a BLi 300 battery case to Walker's Saw Shop in Nanaimo for me (to be fair the batteries were made in Poland and guess they had other things on their minds due to unruly neighbours . . . ). Took 10 minutes to swap the old battery innerds into the new case and away I go. Click click. No more electrical tape trying to hold the battery in the saw anymore. It wasn't anything with the saw but the battery clips on the case (even thought they looked fine). So thanks to John Walker for hanging in there for me all this time. Great customer support.
I just had a lovely experience with John Walker. Reg recommended him to me. Got my 42" bar and 3 chains for my 3120xp. I will be using them for all things chainsaw. Well except when I am in UK yearly.
 
Ok, so lets put this discussion in one place, bars and chains for the T540i XP battery climbing saw.

View attachment 86812

View attachment 86813

View attachment 86814


I've been running the T540i for around a year and a half, and out of the 5 different climbing saws (4 of them gas) it is the one I use 90% of the time. Mine has a 14" bar and in my opinion the saw doesn't have the power to run a 16" well, though I don't have experience with a 16. Unlike gas saws, there aren't any performance mods you can do to a battery saw (that I'm aware of) so the only way to adjust its performance is by the cutting hardware.

Stock setup: .325" pitch, .043" gauge. Honestly seems fine. I wish it was a full chisel chain and didn't have the safety bumpers because I think it would preform better that way, but overall works quite well and I have no major complaints about it. A good system, though being a bit of an odd-ball size there are literally only two models of chain I can find that fit it. I wish there were more choices and at times couldn't find any in stock, during covid at least. Husky chains, SP21G, are $30 each.

Panther setup - 1/4" pitch, .043" gauge, requires changing the drive sprocket. Quickly after buying the saw, I switched to the Panther setup to try and get more performance out of it and have used that setup for most of the time I've had the saw. The bar is substantially lighter making the saw feel more sporty and less fatiguing to use. I was surprised at how much faster the chain accelerated from stopped to cutting speed, thanks to the chain itself being quite a bit lighter. These facts make it about the only 'performance mod' you can do to the saw. I thought it was a good improvement in cutting speed for limbing firs in particular. August notes on the page where he sells t it that the bars and chains are less robust than the stock setup and certainly that will be the case anytime something is smaller and lighter, but I've never had any problems with it. My only real complaint about the system, and I've mentioned this before, is that I find the tiny chains much harder to sharpen. Some times I get a good edge, other times not as good, and that is very annoying. It's actually why I'm looking at other options, because even if the saw CAN cut faster thanks to it being a narrower kerf and thus more efficient, without a good edge on the chain you lose any advantage it has. These chains are $30 each from MonkeyBeaver, Baileys has a compatible Woodland Pro chain for $23 but I think those chains suck, then they have a Stihl chain for $31.

Oregon setup: .325" pitch, .043" gauge. So I just bought this and put it on last night, and I haven't used it yet. I was hoping it would be a lighter setup than stock, to get some of the improvements I found running the Panther setup, but with larger and easier to sharpen teeth that I can get a much better edge on. Turns out both the bar and chain are within a few grams of each other, so no improvement to be found there. Honestly it seems exactly the same as the stock setup in every way I can see, almost like it is the exact same product with a different label. The good news is these chains, 80TXL, are $20 so a lot less than the 30 dollar Husky branded chains. I think Oregon even makes the bars and chains that are labeled Husky.

After running the Panther for well over a year, I swapped back to the stock setup recently to remind myself how it feels. I do feel the added weight and slightly slower acceleration, but honestly I think I'm cutting faster thanks to being able to get a better edge on the chain. Now I've put the whole Oregon system on to see if it feels ANY different from the stock setup. Unfortunately I'm having back problems again, so it may be a little while before I'm able to put some climbing hours on and really test it out.

Anyone else with experience to share?
I just began to use 542i and in shop asк about the same full chisell and without bumpers chains/what I always liкe with stihl chains.They answered what they dont have
I see what Stihl bars and chains are way better than Husку
Only Sugihara help them with bigger bars
Stihl has light bars on top handled saw but not husку
 
Yep, I use the BLi200X battery. I ordered a 300 to try it out, but as soon as I picked it up in my hands I knew it was too heavy and it went straight back into the box to return. Occasionally it would be nice to have in the ground saw where weight isn't as much of an issue, but my having my three batteries the same (top handle, rear handle and pole saw) I can move batteries between any of the tools and keep the same weight/feel rather than have to 'keep track of the heavy one' which I wouldn't want in my climbing saw.
300 battery is too much weight for climbingsaw.201T better choise : faster,lighter,powerfull
 
View attachment 87430
So, here’s my (formerly) beloved T536LiXP. For over a year now, it’s been living in the hall closet above the washing machine since my wife commandeered it for home defense purposes. You can see that she has also used it for other various home projects, such as cutting apart the old fence for the burn pile. The chain is now slack and dull, but potentially still effective against home invaders.

Back in the day, when it was in my possession, I quite liked it except for the chain situation. The shape of the bar tip along with the chain design made cutting certain inclusions impossible. I did like the length of the bar, but had always wanted to upgrade.

Subsequently, my 201 continued to plague me with a solenoid issue, so I bought a couple T540XP units. I ran them stock for a week and had to switch out to a full chisel chain and down to 12”. I went with the Oregon Advance Cut option for bar and chain. I found this chain to be jumpy right out of the box. Everything became minty after the first careful hand filing.

Reading this thread gives me new inspiration to grab another Li model and set it up properly.

Thanks everyone for all the great info!
Can you explaine how to find this Oregchain?ain
 
@oceans , what full chisel chain have you found for the T540i? How is the 540 compared to the 536? My understanding is they are two very different saws, but I could be wrong there.

And for a slight update since I hadn't put any/many hours on the Oregon setup when I made this thread, it's what I've used exclusively for the past month and a half and it has preformed very well. Still not sure if it is any better than stock, but the chains are cheaper...

(red alder, very soft wood, but preformed great even on silly-big cuts like this)

View attachment 87441
Which size bolt did you screw to side cover?Are you taкіng it off for cleaning sometimes?What chain do you have on this speed cut bar?
 
That's the setup I have and am pretty happy with, but it's not a true full-chisel chain. It is a lot closer to a full-chisel than some of the very round corner semi-chisel out there, pretty close in fact, but doesn't have a true 90* edge. Semi is a little more user friendly and forgiving and maybe full is too aggressive for the saw since it isn't super powerful, I'm not sure.

Here is the Oregon I run on the T540i compared to the Stihl full-chisel I run on my 200T for example.

View attachment 87445

View attachment 87446
We named full chisel " number seven"
 

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