Bore cut thru the front of face notch cut

COtreerat

COtreerat

New member
Location
Denver
Just wondering what the benefit/ point of plunging straight through the front and center of your face notch would be? Would this be a safer alternative to cut a deeper than normal face notch that bypasses the center of gravity?? Lemme know!
 
Boring through the center of the face is a great way to cut down a tree that is too large for your saw bar, that’s the only real reason I know to use that technique.

Boring out the center of the hinge will not make the face cut deeper or undermine the center of gravity, it just makes part of your back cut from the front of the tree.
 
Reach said:
Boring through the center of the face is a great way to cut down a tree that is too large for your saw bar, that’s the only real reason I know to use that technique.

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That is the only time I've used it. You can cut a tree about 3x the diameter of your bar length by doing so. A "normal" bore cut gets you to about 2x the diameter of bar length...so you can fell larger trees using this technique.

I've seen it demonstrated on smaller trees that are heavy back leaners where you plunge all the way through out of the back of the tree to set wedges. This may be what @southsoundtree is talking about in his last line in post #2?

I don't think it reduced barber chair any more than a standard plunge cut where you start near the front, set your hinge width, then cut to the back.

I could see faster falling with less hinge there - useful if you need the tree to crash through the canopy with more force.
 
Crap, I have a photo somewhere that shows pretty clearly that a front bore would have prevented the barberchair that someone experienced.

I’ll stand firmly on the claim, it plays a part. Between logging and residential tree work, I’ve seen enough instances and spoken with enough seasoned fallers that I confidently teach it as an aid to prevent barberchair. Is it foolproof? Well, you know who’s out there.

To answer @COtreerat -
It doesn’t replace the standard bore cut; it’s an additional step when you need it. I
prefer it on trees with significant forward lean, or significant backward lean that has machinery pulling (traditional back cut).
 
We use it all the time in spruce that's too small to set wedges normally. Face and bore thru from front, sweep both sides so your bore is \_/ shaped. Set wedge and then carefully nibble the posts on either side. Used a lot and works well, if you make sure the posts you leave are solid wood and not rotten.
 
ATH said:
That is the only time I've used it. You can cut a tree about 3x the diameter of your bar length by doing so. A "normal" bore cut gets you to about 2x the diameter of bar length...so you can fell larger trees using this technique.

I've seen it demonstrated on smaller trees that are heavy back leaners where you plunge all the way through out of the back of the tree to set wedges. This may be what @southsoundtree is talking about in his last line in post #2?

I don't think it reduced barber chair any more than a standard plunge cut where you start near the front, set your hinge width, then cut to the back.

I could see faster falling with less hinge there - useful if you need the tree to crash through the canopy with more force.
Click to expand...
It does reduce barber chair. essentially by weakening the hinge or crippling the holding wood. I will do a basic backcut bore, but about half the time I will gut the middle of the hinge too... It's about a 50/50 if I want a slow controlled fall, or if I want to blast through the back cut as fast as possible. If the latter, the least amount of wood to cut is ideal
 
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