Marie Muma
New member
- Location
- Port Townsend
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If you wrap.the spine of a biner a handful of times with the throw line, you have a temporary handle. Use your leg muscles for pulling the rope, redirected at the base, if you have a walking path.We “invented” our chain Friction Saver using a thick rubber hose collar around a substantial chain with a stainless steel ring shackled (tied off with wire) to the chain.
This friction saver is installed about 70 feet up and stays put. Our climbing rope is stored at the base of the tree in a bin and is “permanently” attached to the retrieval line (presently just a throw line). We store it after our climb and raise it each time.
The throw line is very thin (Dyneema) and is a bit hard on my gloved hands while pulling on it to raise the climbing rope. That is why I was thinking of using a reel. Initially the amount of tug is not much but once the rope gets high enough and passes the ring, that is when it becomes more difficult.
The fishing reel is probably not going to work which we tried with the present throw line. I doubt that we will even use the stainless steel 1/16th inch cable unless we can find the sort of reel that can be attached on our decking surrounding our tree.
The back up plan is to purchase a “retrieval” line that is thicker and easier to just haul in hand over hand. This line stays up in the tree between climbs. I will probably use 1/4 inch polyester double braided line which will be so much easier on my hands while pulling on it to raise the climbing rope. View attachment 71819
I apologize if I missed your reply...question about the welded ring you have your rope doubled through. Who makes the ring? Is it rated? The weld doesn’t have the eye appeal I like with gear in this configuration. The diameter of the ring material is thinner than I would choose too. There are some really nice, wide, forged rings available.
Thanks. I do use thicker gloves, but still not the best situation.Consider perhaps throwing a thicker pair of gloves in the kit just for pulling the lines up. I love the dexterity of my thin gloves but throwline does bite right through them. Something like a thicker leather glove or winter style glove with the coated palm so you have the better grip(I know it will be hot, but they won't be on your hands long) will still allow you to pull the line while protecting your hands. Once the line is up switch back to your climbing glove of preference.
The ring was purchased from a Marine Supply store. It is very highly rated as it is used in the marine industry.I apologize if I missed your reply...question about the welded ring you have your rope doubled through. Who makes the ring? Is it rated? The weld doesn’t have the eye appeal I like with gear in this configuration. The diameter of the ring material is thinner than I would choose too. There are some really nice, wide, forged rings available.
I used those welded rings in the past. After a while I quit using them. The main reason is that there are no markings on them to show their rating.As far as who makes the ring that we are using for our Chain Friction Saver, I do not know. We went to a Marine Supplier in our area to shop for the items. It is rated very highly, being used in the marine industry.
Thanks, will do. I do believe we are 100% safe when it comes to this stainless steel ring failing.I used those welded rings in the past. After a while I quit using them. The main reason is that there are no markings on them to show their rating.
They are meant to be used in between two links not to have moving rope rigged through them. The lumpy weld concerns me.
There is a strength loss when bending a rope over a radius. The ratio compares the diameter of the rope to the diameter of the edge. A common bend ration is four to one. Our climbing ropes are roughly half inch so a four inch bend is a good ratio. Less than that changes the efficiency. Eventually working down to a knife edge. Do some reading on 'bend ratios'
My concern isn't about failure.Thanks, will do. I do believe we are 100% safe when it comes to this stainless steel ring failing.
I'd at least use 2 rings to double the bend radius...(like a ring and ring)My concern isn't about failure.
doubling a rope over a small diameter is a concern
Not having specs marked on the ring is a concern
Globby weld is a concern
Forged rings solve all of the concerns.
My concerns aren't always others.

Thats very interesting.To prevent rodent chewing handle your cordage with gloves on. Rodents are not interested in chewing syntheic fibers, they are interested in the salts transmitted from sweat on your hands to the cordage. They are very practical and efficient and do things for a reason ;-)
-AJ
Agreed. A while back treestuff made a climbing ring and ring with a rigging thimble. I know that x-rings were said not suitable for climbing, maybe other rings are rated/suitable for it?I know rigging rings aren't "rated" for life support but they would handle a great deal more than probably any of our climbing gear would. An X large rigging ring would be nice in that position. If it were rated for life support. Which they aren't.
I believe that was the concern of David Driver when the x rings first came out and why he would only send them out professionally spliced.Is it the concern of the possibility of the ring coming unplaced and having rope on rope which would be very bad?