Gin pole

I use gin poles in tower work, where it's either that or a crane. I can make a gin pole for the small towers I'm usually on (mostly ham radio towers) for about $100 and that's a little cheaper than what they're asking for cranes. It's a lot faster moving one up or down on a tower leg than a tree stem, so the tool makes a lot of sense for tower work.
I'm a little doubtful about how useful it would be in a tree, but I will concede this much... that thing is very well thought out and constructed. It looks plenty strong enough for what they show it being used for, and the construction looks topnotch, to me.

I'm not sure how practical it would be. One scenario I can see, would be a case where you really can't afford to drop anything on a target (power lines, swimming pool) and you are working solo or with only one helper. It looks like you should be able to control the load quite easily, especially with a Rig 'N Wrench incorporated into the setup. I've gotten 50' Rohn 45G towers to the ground by myself with a homemade gin pole that isn't nearly as strudy as that thing. So, I'm thinking... maybe. It's quite possible that it is a lot more handy than initial impressions, you just never know.

I give it "two thumbs up" for the engineering and construction, and a "meh.. maybe..." for usefulness in tree work.

This product reviewer accepts no payment for his services, unless it is in the form of small, unmarked currency delivered in a brown paper bag left on my porch in the middle of the night.
 
I'm going with Jeff on this. Love the craftsmanship and the concept but not sure about the everyday practicality in most tree work. If it had a knuckle boom or some other way to get away from the trunk then it could possibly also be used for limb removals. Unless I am missing something currently about all it's good from is close proximity vertical work.
 
...and will likely be lit on fire!

Ha! You're giving your age away. I don't think these kids nowadays have felt the thrill of burning turdbags on porches. Do people even have doorbells, anymore, or do they all have expensive surveillance systems that call the police and make barking dog noises?
 
Ha! You're giving your age away. I don't think these kids nowadays have felt the thrill of burning turdbags on porches. Do people even have doorbells, anymore, or do they all have expensive surveillance systems that call the police and make barking dog noises?
Hey I'm not that old, most still consider me a kid!
 
I laughed when I saw it. I could wreck the whole tree by the time you set that silly thing up for your first cut! I also wouldn't want to throw any real weight at it, but thats just me. Go with what works and is proven..
 
I laughed when I saw it. I could wreck the whole tree by the time you set that silly thing up for your first cut! I also wouldn't want to throw any real weight at it, but thats just me. Go with what works and is proven..

That was my impression too.

You could almost turn the tree trunk into sawdust with a chainsaw is less time.
 
I can see it being useful / practical only mebbe 1X or 2X a year when negative blocking a spar located in a tricky spot, eg. middle of a raised deck adjacent to a cottage, with no adjacent trees. Just to save cutting and throwing a bunch of cookies when the remaining height of spar makes negative blocking sketchy.
 
That's kind of how I feel about it. But, I think I could strap a 4x4 post to the stem and run a couple of 8" timber screws through it and get that done.
 
Needs two straps spread further apart.

Needs a friction bollard in place of, or along with a block.
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i'm trying to imagine needing bad enough to hoist up and put into place while it is top heavy..
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Then yes, would want longer lower/anchor side span , so straps would be wider, more leveraged apart grab;
BINDERS/ webbing at high low, not just center as single pivot??!!
>>shows w/bars as only anti rotation on the single web middle pivot?
>>this anti rotation leverage against higher leverage arm?
(also think should have small grip teeth on spar side of base)
High friction/high bollard/chock type friction rather than pulley would decrease loading and control side tension needed.
Longer loads would place more load on vertical arm when they are horizontal.
Why have higher risk arm overhead to speedline from base?
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I laughed when I saw it. I could wreck the whole tree by the time you set that silly thing up for your first cut! I also wouldn't want to throw any real weight at it, but thats just me. Go with what works and is proven..

I like everything about your post except for that last sentence...
 
I can see it being useful / practical only mebbe 1X or 2X a year when negative blocking a spar located in a tricky spot, eg. middle of a raised deck adjacent to a cottage, with no adjacent trees. Just to save cutting and throwing a bunch of cookies when the remaining height of spar makes negative blocking sketchy.

At that point, just mill it where it stands! Boards are easy to walk off with.
 

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