Compact Bulldog Bone

I'm completely kidding by the way. I prefer a chest harness for when I'm using the Haas. But, if I were to use a neck tender it would be static not bungee. On another note, I found that my CMI double handed ascender with a bungee from it to the BDB when footlocking works a charm. No groundbreaking info here, but I have been having a blast with the Bone, it is an awesome device. I have not had to take it off the line (no climbs requiring redirects so far, so I've kept the slic pin through the 3/4" in the lower arm and it's been flawless) but it has been excellent for removals and pruning.
Love the idea on the bungee hand ascender and I'll try it out on my next real long ascent...but I hate taking extra shit up with me. Not sure why a hand ascender hanging off the back of my saddle bugs me but it does. You know, come to think of it, it's a stupid idea.

Ha ha, right back at ya Worthaug :sorprendido3:
 
Anyone else troubled by Neck tethers? Particularly the static kind?

I'm always telling the kids never to tie or wrap string/rope/cables round their necks and for good reason. So why would I have a static loop around my neck that could get hung up on anything in the tree?

(It's always puzzled me that so many men around the world start the day by tying a noose and tighenning it around their air pipe and grey matter before they go off to work. And a quick google makes me think I'm not alone...)

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I have two in one lanyard for a few reasons and one is so I can go over the shoulder with one to tend system ..while having the other side to buck in at next work point when I get there..then I take off over shoulder side and its ready for whatever . It's not the most comfortable having laanyard over shoulder ,but I've never had a real issue to make me change my style ..no neck ties for this guy!
 
I am going to make a "semi static" neck bungee for the bulldog. Using and old eye to eye, then girtch hitch a small piece of bungee through the eyes with a biner at the end. Then it will break if need be, and gives you just a little added forgiveness.
 
it was cool to just walk up to my line and clip on and go without fussing and setting a hitch. off the ground in record time and clipped in with my loop runner/chest harness and had no issues. one thing I thought id have to get used to is the motion of squeezing the top and bottom arms together to descend but I didn't even think that was needed. I just pulled down on the top arm like a hitch and could control descent smoothly. ill also say that ive been a hitch hiker user and without measuring I think it might even be slightly more compact than the hh but ill have to put them side by side to see. I think the bone is going to be a good option for working a spar. im a shorter guy but I was able to cinch it up close enough to be right on the trunk. ill have more to say with more time on it but these are my initial thoughts of it. thanks Gordon!
 
it was cool to just walk up to my line and clip on and go without fussing and setting a hitch. off the ground in record time and clipped in with my loop runner/chest harness and had no issues. one thing I thought id have to get used to is the motion of squeezing the top and bottom arms together to descend but I didn't even think that was needed. I just pulled down on the top arm like a hitch and could control descent smoothly. ill also say that ive been a hitch hiker user and without measuring I think it might even be slightly more compact than the hh but ill have to put them side by side to see. I think the bone is going to be a good option for working a spar. im a shorter guy but I was able to cinch it up close enough to be right on the trunk. ill have more to say with more time on it but these are my initial thoughts of it. thanks Gordon!
Yeah, cinching to a spar and the quick on/ off features of the Bone make it really shine.
 
Thanks Joe! The ease of taking it on and off the line has always been my favorite thing about the Bone. I would think an adjustable bridge or preset tether would be nice also with the Bone, in order to get it out to arms length, as it is then nice to pull to release.
 
I am going to make a "semi static" neck bungee for the bulldog. Using and old eye to eye, then girtch hitch a small piece of bungee through the eyes with a biner at the end. Then it will break if need be, and gives you just a little added forgiveness.
Yeah now you got a bulldog bone..you may have a few eye and eyes you aren't gonna use much . I like the idea and may try one out .
 
I could have sworn I measured the hole in that lower arm 5/16 but I may have been spacing. I need to get that slic pin for 3:1

The Bone really is cool. I'm impressed. Congrats Gordon.
Mike, I'm not convinced that you'll need the pin for the 3:1. I've found it works fine without. If you watch the Bone carefully while hauling in stock form, I think you'll see that once the top arms collapse, the spine begins to fall away from the rope as it rides around the lower bollard. The only thing the rope really contacts is the pin on the lower chain link.

The Bone is really coming a long way without too much change from the original design. It's a true joy to use.

Does anyone think the upper arm could benefit from a little cut out (like the lower arm has) for rope installation? I find that with certain bollard/rope combos, a bit of scoop might help, but it's never when I'm standing on the ground...it's when I'm right up to my TIP with a bunch of tail weight and I'm trying to prevent my standing side from slacking out too much as I relocate the system.
 
Does anyone think the upper arm could benefit from a little cut out (like the lower arm has) for rope installation? I find that with certain bollard/rope combos, a bit of scoop might help, but it's never when I'm standing on the ground...it's when I'm right up to my TIP with a bunch of tail weight and I'm trying to prevent my standing side from slacking out too much as I relocate the system.
Yep noticed it too. There have been a couple of times I thought I was going to fray the line trying to wiggle it in there. Rope diameter definitely plays a part. Still think this might be my favorite new tool in a long time though. Of course my Mumford SAKA knee ascender plays a big part in the system. So, my two favorite new tools are the BD Bone and the SAKA.
 
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Mike, I'm not convinced that you'll need the pin for the 3:1. I've found it works fine without. If you watch the Bone carefully while hauling in stock form, I think you'll see that once the top arms collapse, the spine begins to fall away from the rope as it rides around the lower bollard. The only thing the rope really contacts is the pin on the lower chain link.

The Bone is really coming a long way without too much change from the original design. It's a true joy to use.

Does anyone think the upper arm could benefit from a little cut out (like the lower arm has) for rope installation? I find that with certain bollard/rope combos, a bit of scoop might help, but it's never when I'm standing on the ground...it's when I'm right up to my TIP with a bunch of tail weight and I'm trying to prevent my standing side from slacking out too much as I relocate the system.

I agree about the 3:1, used it plenty of times today without the pin on a large ash removal. However I still like the idea of the pin because I will use it to make a bite of rope to lower my saws up and haul them back up, just like taking a bite right above the hitch climber pulley.

I agree on the carving for installation on the upper arm.

The bulldog really is amazing me, however, I'm still getting drag on my ascents, and quite a bit, even with the "static neck advancer" ...and I need to lean back a bit too far for my liking for the friction to reduce. Any ideas?
 
I agree about the 3:1, used it plenty of times today without the pin on a large ash removal. However I still like the idea of the pin because I will use it to make a bite of rope to lower my saws up and haul them back up, just like taking a bite right above the hitch climber pulley.

I agree on the carving for installation on the upper arm.

The bulldog really is amazing me, however, I'm still getting drag on my ascents, and quite a bit, even with the "static neck advancer" ...and I need to lean back a bit too far for my liking for the friction to reduce. Any ideas?
I've noticed the same , gonna try shortening my rope bridge up a bit.
 
Try advancing the Bone with a loop under the Bone between the teardrop attach point and the climbing rope.
 
Gordon, I will try that, thank you.

I was playing around a little bit...and I'm finding the small accessory clip I'm using is coming in contact with those upper links, especially when straight up, which is tweeking the bone and putting pressure on the line. I tried the Petzl Williams Biner which clears the upper links all together and it seems to tend like a dream this way...well...just messing around on the ground. I will have to put it to use on Saturday.

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