Work position question

R

RANDY10

Lanyard in above the block or below the block when rigging a spar ? Yes tied in twice but I’ve seen a lot of guys lately never lanyard in above the block (pulley ) they just have their climbing line choked and lanyard on below the block ? I honestly never saw the advantage either way ? Shed some light on this for me guys !
 
ABOVE. Lanyard below/under the block will result in it getting trapped under the loaded block sling, so if you needed to get down, you would have to completely disconnect from the lanyard leaving it pinched under the block by tension.
 
Maybe okay to some? For me, not very cool to leave life support under the rigging gear to be smashed and smeared.
I have done it before. No problems, but def not best practice.
 
It’s a cost/benefit analysis.

Know the pros and cons of being tied in above, of being tied in below.

Set your rigging competently. Use proper cuts. Rig appropriately for your skill set, the tree, the rigging system (in that order)

Make sound decisions.

I prefer my climbing system cinched tight above the block sling. Gives me the extra room to put a bit of tension in the climbing system. It won’t “bounce off” if secured well.

I prefer my lanyard below. It supports most of my weight. I get the best cutting position with my lanyard “nearer” belt level. (Saw lower than my pecs, higher than my waist. In the power zone). If the lamyard were to get pinched and I needed to descend. I could cut it or remove it. Better that than my climbing system! (It also keeps my main load bearing system the furthest from my saw). It sux to cut anything, but it sux even more to cut something then “fall” into the saw!

These are my choices. They are pretty consistent, but tree work like life is constant choice, decision, compromise, move on. These choices need not be yours. Your gunna have to do that.

Tony
 
My personal preference is to have my lanyard above the block sling and my climbing line below. I usually use an srt system for my climbing line, so if it does get pinched by the sling, I can still decend. Also, I make sure my climbing line is snugged up under the sling so it cannot come in contact with the block or the moving rigging line. As stated in Marks article, the block coming down under load can sever, or at least damage, a climbing line and a moving rigging line can burn the climbing rope. I like lanyard above because I fell it gives me a more comfortable position, and if the block sling slides down on the lanyard, there is the potential for me to be stuck. Since my climbing line is below the block sling, it can't be bounced over the top. If my lanyard is bounced over the top, my climing line will hold me.
One other thing I would like to add. I run my lanyard on the lower d's of my tree motion. Not everyone likes that, for me its more comfortable and I have better ability to move my waist and thus my whole upper body. An added bonus of that setup is that in the event of a trunk splitting or a big peal down, my lanyard and bridge make a closed loop that I am not contained within. Hopefully everyone reading this has heard the term "circle of death" referring to the harness and lanyard to hip d's where you could be crushed inside of durring a trunk split or peal down. With the lanyard to the lower d's on a rope bridge saddle, no circle of death. A potential downside is that if the rope bridge is broken by the split or peal, the climbing line is no longer attached to the climber. I think it is unlikely to happen, but it is a potential. A solution is to make sure the lanyard is less strong than the bridge. I think the stock treemo bridge is stronger than most lanyards, but I am now going to look in to that. Also as I write this, it occurs to me that it is also unlikely to be an issue if there is a block properly tied to the tree as the sling would take the brunt of the split or peal, depending too on the way you attach your block.
 
RBJtree said:
My personal preference is to have my lanyard above the block sling and my climbing line below. I usually use an srt system for my climbing line, so if it does get pinched by the sling, I can still decend. Also, I make sure my climbing line is snugged up under the sling so it cannot come in contact with the block or the moving rigging line. As stated in Marks article, the block coming down under load can sever, or at least damage, a climbing line and a moving rigging line can burn the climbing rope. I like lanyard above because I fell it gives me a more comfortable position, and if the block sling slides down on the lanyard, there is the potential for me to be stuck. Since my climbing line is below the block sling, it can't be bounced over the top. If my lanyard is bounced over the top, my climing line will hold me.
One other thing I would like to add. I run my lanyard on the lower d's of my tree motion. Not everyone likes that, for me its more comfortable and I have better ability to move my waist and thus my whole upper body. An added bonus of that setup is that in the event of a trunk splitting or a big peal down, my lanyard and bridge make a closed loop that I am not contained within. Hopefully everyone reading this has heard the term "circle of death" referring to the harness and lanyard to hip d's where you could be crushed inside of durring a trunk split or peal down. With the lanyard to the lower d's on a rope bridge saddle, no circle of death. A potential downside is that if the rope bridge is broken by the split or peal, the climbing line is no longer attached to the climber. I think it is unlikely to happen, but it is a potential. A solution is to make sure the lanyard is less strong than the bridge. I think the stock treemo bridge is stronger than most lanyards, but I am now going to look in to that. Also as I write this, it occurs to me that it is also unlikely to be an issue if there is a block properly tied to the tree as the sling would take the brunt of the split or peal, depending too on the way you attach your block.
Click to expand...
I think the treemotion bridge is way too long to prevent you from being in the circle of death.
 
RBJtree said:
It's whatever length you want it to be. Depending on how you have the leg loops set, you just need it to be short enough to not rip your legs apart.
Click to expand...
Of course you could make it shorter. I was just referring to the stock length. Mine is adjustable with a Rolln'Lock anyway.
 
I climb on a wrench 95% of the time.When doing removals as soon as the last limb gets rigged down and im just standing on basically a telephone pole iI take the tail of my climbing line and choke it to the spar as Mark described ( running bowline with long tail) Then i install a unicender just under bowline and clip into that.Next I remove my wrench. Every time you decend you get to unweight your spurs for a few minutes while you reposition your block.This gives your legs a rest.I use Uni because it is so compact that when you pull tail of bowline down to rechoke climbing line just above block you can cinch up very close to spar.My weight is on my bridge not my lanyard.You must have an adjustable lanyard to snug up tight enough to make this work but it is very stable when blocking down large pieces.It does not slip like lanyard does and it takes alot of weight off your spurs. It also shines on skinnier spars because when they are shaken you are not thrown of ballance because your sitting in your saddle hanging from bridge.You can repel down to ground safely at any time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom