Work Photos

I was trying to make sense of your climbing system Shane, hard to tell on my phone but I’ve decided you must have lost your rigging bag and just hung it all off of your suspenders.
Lol...what was going on there? I was transitioning from a zigzag setup in the neighboring tree to SRT Rope Wrench on the spar, I believe.

Mid transition, I thought, I needed a pic, hung my crap on my suspenders, took the shot, then I reorganized all my stuff and tied in single rope.

I have been using a zillion lanyard (love this - zero worries about prusick binding due to sap) and zigzag recently.

On SRT, I tie an alpine butterfly with the quickie and wrench.

I think there is also pull line in there and an extra foot ascender that my guy sent up on accident.

I dont use the zig zag on spars because of the side load.

This was a fun, half-day job where I got to use my DMM hook and traverse between trees to take out a few tops and guys got to practice felling with low risk of hitting a target.

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I’ve always liked my 395.
I love all my husky saws EXCEPT my 560xp. I've had it rebuilt twice and it has very low hours on it...in the shop now

When it worked, that saw ripped. It is just unacceptable to need two rebuilds in two years when I treat it the same as all the other saws and use it the least.

Tree work was only 25% of my business this year.

I'm not married to any brand, so I bought two Stihls to give them a go.

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I love all my husky saws EXCEPT my 560xp. I've had it rebuilt twice and it has very low hours on it...in the shop now

When it worked, that saw ripped. It is just unacceptable to need two rebuilds in two years when I treat it the same as all the other saws and use it the least.

Tree work was only 25% of my business this year.

I'm not married to any brand, so I bought two Stihls to give them a go.

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What was the failed / broken issue ? I’ve got a 562xp which I love but you have me worried
 
What was the failed / broken issue ? I’ve got a 562xp which I love but you have me worried
Maybe it was the 562xp - biggest xp prior to the 576xp...can never get the models right. First was a scored piston on 3rd day of use, got a new powerhead but not under warranty because they said it was lean fuel (that was probably my ground guys fault) and own up (no other saw however has had issue used those days or since), 2nd issue is crank case and bearings.

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What was the failed / broken issue ? I’ve got a 562xp which I love but you have me worried
First run of them and the 550’s had some issues, I blew up 2 550’s just under normal usage one was warrantied one wasn’t, my Walkerized 550 and 261 are little rippers with huge power gains! Get modded muffler from Walkers for your 562 it really opens it up, good mod for a fair price and seeing you on BC won’t cost much to ship!
 
First run of them and the 550’s had some issues, I blew up 2 550’s just under normal usage one was warrantied one wasn’t, my Walkerized 550 and 261 are little rippers with huge power gains! Get modded muffler from Walkers for your 562 it really opens it up, good mod for a fair price and seeing you on BC won’t cost much to ship!
What is Walkerized? A modification?

I need to know more about this Walkerized treatment - I have never moded any equipment because of warranty and my thought has been - engineers and companies put a lot of time and money into this product and it should work as designed. Example - chipping earlier diesel trucks can create more issues.

However, this saw runs hot and has problems - plus, I'm already into it more than the original cost, have purchased other saws since, so why not?

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What is Walkerized? A modification?

I need to know more about this Walkerized treatment - I have never moded any equipment because of warranty and my thought has been - engineers and companies put a lot of time and money into this product and it should work as designed. Example - chipping earlier diesel trucks can create more issues.

http://www.walkerssawshop.com

It's a famous shop in Nanaimo British Columbia Canada that "walkerize" saws for a reasonable price. They're wizards with saws, opening them up get more out of your saws. I've run various walkerized saws and its night and day, especially with husqvarnas, they just fly.

Here's a link to a forum with people explaining the general process. Basically muffler mods, port and polish, run better and cooler etc.

http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=17875.0
 
http://www.walkerssawshop.com

It's a famous shop in Nanaimo British Columbia Canada that "walkerize" saws for a reasonable price.

Thanks for the info!

My 550 and T540 has been rock solid. I know that August H. takes his to a shop in Oregon, which is just north of me a few hours. I'll call both and message a couple instagram folks to figure out which will be the easiest route.

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I dont use the zig zag on spars because of the side load.

I'm not sure what you mean here. Are you referring to when the ZigZag is very close to the quickie/tie in point? I normally use an AFS if using a ZigZag (or any Ddrt/MRS system). I never really thought about the possibility of a slight side load at the tie in point.
 
I'm not sure what you mean here. Are you referring to when the ZigZag is very close to the quickie/tie in point? I normally use an AFS if using a ZigZag (or any Ddrt/MRS system). I never really thought about the possibility of a slight side load at the tie in point.
I mean no quickie or afs involved - just simple rope around the trunk, ddrt. If it is a decent size spar, the trunk can put side pressure on the device - I think there is even a picture in the manual.

I usually use an afs, but on this climb, I didnt. because I gaffed up and forgot it. So I was ddrt in one tree through a crotch on a zag, traversed to second tree, topped it out, then switched over to single rope with quickie on that spar to avoid side torsion.
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Appreciate the response. I do note however that in your second pic the chain withstood a lateral force of 1,800 lbs (8 kN) without breaking. But you are right- if there's a better or safer way to get the job done, choose that way.
 
Do you get yours modified or do you do it?

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i Do a muffler mod on just about everything, sometime advance the timing. And I tried my hand at porting once and got lucky, made a 353 husky run real good but I didn’t really know what I was doing. I’ve got several saws that Jack Beelar built ( hotsaws 101) and they just scream. It’s funny the one saw I never did a muffler mod on is my 395, might have to remedy that. And when it comes time for a rebuild I think I will do some port work to it. Just clean it up a little. Guys over on outdoor power equipment forum really know the ins and outs of porting. I’m just a hack. Highly recommend trying a professionally ported saw though, they are fun.
 
This Willow Oak was planted by the home owner in 1952. Then he had it topped and it died.
View attachment 56789

Got a Willow Oak in my back yard slightly smaller (15' and change circumference) that was planted around the same time. I love the tree but its only about 10ft from the house and is only getting bigger.

Are you doing anything with the trunk? Assuming its solid when/if I take it down, I will probably get an Alaskan mill for my 660 and slab mine out. I am pretty sure its mostly free of metal as its been in my families possession since it was about 8" across.
 
As a life long mechanic/racer (though little more than a pimple on an arborists ass) its my firm belief that as long as you maintain true "work saw" level mods you will be fine as far as longevity.
IMHO, A port cleanup, reduction in back pressure and slight changes in port timing and carb tune all bring about good increases in power and feel (throttle response) with very little change to the life of the saw...in many cases a saw with a better fuel curve and greater breathing will run cooler increasing piston and ring life at the same load/rpm.
However increasing the ignition timing and compression ratio in almost all cases results in a greater load on the bearings (particularly wristpin and rod) but as long as these changes are kept to a reasonable level and good gas/oil is used (maintaining an even burn and good lubrication) the loads are well within a safe range.
Also offsetting these mods is that a well modded worksaw if used in the same fashion and with the same amount of raker height will be much less likely to buck and gag during the cut. Bucking and gagging IMO is one of the big factors (along with bad fuel/oil mixture and cold over-revving) that cause premature wear in saws.
 

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