Wisconsin VH4D engine (blow-by?)

Anonymity

Anonymity

Participating member
Location
Ontario, Canada
I got some smoke coming out of the oil fill tube on this old 30horse engine...is this normal? I read it could be the piston rings? Are these hard to change? It's on a bandit 65 chipper, can I leave the engine on the chipper to complete the work? I'm not an expert machanic, but like doing things myself if I can... Bottom line is I just want to take care of my equipment and fix anything that may be broken?

Thanks,
Ken
 
I'm not sure if engine can stay on. One thing to keep in mind if you ever had problems with this engine that was getting too pricey is that there are other great options now. RopeShield (Thomas) who posts here put a new 40 horse engine on his and said it really boosted performance. Sounded like total cost might have hit between $2500 and $3000. Last I checked a new built Wisconsin was $5K to $6K.

I have that same engine on a 65 and just like to know my options.
You'll probably get it done for a few hundred in parts this time.
 
Are you losing oil?
Does it smoke out exhaust?

I have a v465 Wisconsin. I too have noticeable vapor, I think it is normal for these. I have no smoke from exhaust and no real oil loss. Some engines if you fill the crank case full on the dip stick will consume or blow out ccv until it gets to the lower acceptable limit on dip stick, then maintain there.

You can score a vanguard 35hp for round $2k if the other engine failed.
 
Are you losing oil?
Does it smoke out exhaust?

No, none that I can see...thanks for the info! I'll keep an eye on it. I just bought the chipper, so I'm working through its issues (minor so far, new stickers, new muffler, oil change, grease, new plugs, fixed broken safety screen etc)

Thanks
 
Anonymity said:
Are you losing oil?
Does it smoke out exhaust?

No, none that I can see...thanks for the info! I'll keep an eye on it. I just bought the chipper, so I'm working through its issues (minor so far, new stickers, new muffler, oil change, grease, new plugs, fixed broken safety screen etc)

Thanks
Click to expand...
Make sure you verify the anvil has a good edge and is adjusted up to the knives. When you have good knives and anvil and they are adjusted properly the machine will chip amazing. Dull knives, round anvil and a big gap will beat on your machine. The trick to adjusting the anvil is bring it up till it kisses a blade. Most likely it will only kiss one of them, verify by turning by hand the disk until it is no longer touching. This helps to have some one else with you and good light. Once you run it a bit. Recheck everything as there may be a slight settling of the bolts, especially if you just put new knives in. Retourqe the knives if they are new.

These engines are super simple. If they stop running or don't run properly, it is usually electrical or fuel related. My advise with a new chipper is drain and remove tank and verify that it is clean, not kidding. Almost every machine I have has had crap in the tank and it can give you head aches down the road with fuel pumps and carburetors. If it spudders and has power loss its most likely fuel realated. Even with inline fuel filters. If it just shuts of or won't fire go for electrical. I have found just tugging on wires will show you some times which terminal looks attached, but was actually green corroded and broke. Cheek the fuse too, clean it up and die electric grease it. Good luck.

And another thing,lol, due to the atmospheric vent for the ccv. You will get a fair amount of water in the crank case from condensation. I make a point to change the oil just prior to the freezing temps, then just before the summer slam of work. I once fired up my chipper in freezing temps, no oil pressure, I looked at my oil filter for some reason and it looked like it was going to explode. There was an unreal amount of water in the crank case when I changed the oil. Lesson learned.
 
Thank you so much for that informative post! I just put a brand new Anvil in the chipper and set the knives with a close ajustments (used a credit card for measuring gap, which is smaller then what the manual calls for). I have found a white paste in the oil fill tube and cap, figured it was water in the oil (thanks for helping me understand!)

Ken
 
The advantage of a Wisconsin engine, lots of power in a small package. I have a 37 hp in my bandit and a 35 hp in my morbark. I had the 35 rebuilt, sucked a tarp into the fan shroud and over heated it. Scored a cylinder. Had to have the cylinders bored .030 over, complete rebuild cost me just over $2,000. And yes, a new engine costs $5-6000.
We installed temperature sensor that cuts the spark if it were to overheat.

That being said, the Wisconsin engines tend to run really cool. In the wintertime, partially cover the shroud. Many times they don't run long enough to cook the moisture out of the oil, that's where that white paste is coming from. Change your oil often, I believe they recommend every 50 hours. In the winter, change it more often than that.

We've also had issues with water getting into the distributor. If it pops and misses, best to check there first.
 
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