Chris Schultz
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Minturn
The above technique works very well, when the situation requires and allows it. This is an experts only type of scenario in my book. Physics is awesome!
Why 1/3 notch depth?
- Thread starter Matt hawley
- Start date
TheTreeSpyder
Branched out member
- Location
- Florida>>> USA
i never did this, but when seen such pix etc. always think might be safer to rip down at this point w/o man in batter's box/KZ; or maybe (s)light back cut, evac and high rope rip down as safest.
Note how backward rip to round face concentrates to greater compression that is dispersed in proper forward rip to 'linear' face(and tensions concentrated instead).
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
I just finished the article.. over 4,500 words which is more like the length of two articles...
Birdyman88
Branched out member
- Location
- Arlington
Oh man. I read this entire thread last night, mainly waiting on this BIG REVEAL. I guess it's safe to say that @Graeme McMahon pretty much answered the OP's question in about 2-3 sentences way back around page 4. 1/3rd notch depth gives a wide hinge. And plenty of real estate to work with in the back cut, to boot.
I sure hope this BIG REVEAL is accurate, thorough, and does not disappoint. To be honest, if you use appropriate techniques to fell a tree, then it's really just an academic discussion anyway, regardless of notch depth. Not sure why any trainer would want to waste a lot of time with it. For me, it's a "nice to know" type thing, but I'd rather spend my time working on my actual felling skills. Judging by the looks of the stumps I see everywhere, as well as few I leave myself sometimes, I think that's where trainers should spend their time and effort. Personally, I'm way more worried about a barber chair from a defect in the tree, or an overzealous groundie on a pull line, than I am about the notch depth.
I sure hope this BIG REVEAL is accurate, thorough, and does not disappoint. To be honest, if you use appropriate techniques to fell a tree, then it's really just an academic discussion anyway, regardless of notch depth. Not sure why any trainer would want to waste a lot of time with it. For me, it's a "nice to know" type thing, but I'd rather spend my time working on my actual felling skills. Judging by the looks of the stumps I see everywhere, as well as few I leave myself sometimes, I think that's where trainers should spend their time and effort. Personally, I'm way more worried about a barber chair from a defect in the tree, or an overzealous groundie on a pull line, than I am about the notch depth.
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
ya...
TheTreeSpyder
Branched out member
- Location
- Florida>>> USA
Starting or changing the depth of the face cut; changes front face position of mechanically the most key central pivot, benchmark to measure everything in terms of distance/angle from. Unless backlean, then is a key receiver not an initial position.
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Treat as tree is weightless rigid form, and all weight force is cannonball as CoG within tree form boundary.
The loaded angle from the CoG to compression pivot point(benchmark) in the hinge as most rigid point closest to CoG(most efficient, available support position taken by smartest player Nature). Then the side2side and front to back amount of extreme geometries and their length/angle available within the hinge patch from that key central pivot just given against the CoG on the other side of central pivot as benchmark. Also how much the total force forward is concentrated or spread across to the length of the front face it folds on as greatest points to me.
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On close the leveraged length of the faces close slapping and side pressures to CoG would give some effects too, as well as side2side closes. Especially if working L/R sides of the faces independently(Step-Dutch forms) type strategy analogous to not working the L/R face sides generically/same, just as don't work backfield the same in Tapered Hinge L/R sides.
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To be confident all of this to react cleanly as calc'd; requires the thing to be kept to monolith of no separate internal moving 'plates' to bind against each other to seize or change the formula as the motion plays out; so have 1 single committed clean motion with extreme hinge and face positions as only competitors to the CoG motion x angle x leveraged distance.
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In building hinge, we speak of what we take, but it is what we leave behind that matters. The thing is already not going where ya don't want it to go as is, want to mimic/exploit those positions i think. Tapered Hinge more follows the stress pattern already there in stump, now just not removed in hinge etc. from getting 'too happy' w/saw, cutting too much. To start on this chessboard, that might require moves at times beyond checkers.
.
Treat as tree is weightless rigid form, and all weight force is cannonball as CoG within tree form boundary.
The loaded angle from the CoG to compression pivot point(benchmark) in the hinge as most rigid point closest to CoG(most efficient, available support position taken by smartest player Nature). Then the side2side and front to back amount of extreme geometries and their length/angle available within the hinge patch from that key central pivot just given against the CoG on the other side of central pivot as benchmark. Also how much the total force forward is concentrated or spread across to the length of the front face it folds on as greatest points to me.
.
On close the leveraged length of the faces close slapping and side pressures to CoG would give some effects too, as well as side2side closes. Especially if working L/R sides of the faces independently(Step-Dutch forms) type strategy analogous to not working the L/R face sides generically/same, just as don't work backfield the same in Tapered Hinge L/R sides.
.
To be confident all of this to react cleanly as calc'd; requires the thing to be kept to monolith of no separate internal moving 'plates' to bind against each other to seize or change the formula as the motion plays out; so have 1 single committed clean motion with extreme hinge and face positions as only competitors to the CoG motion x angle x leveraged distance.
.
In building hinge, we speak of what we take, but it is what we leave behind that matters. The thing is already not going where ya don't want it to go as is, want to mimic/exploit those positions i think. Tapered Hinge more follows the stress pattern already there in stump, now just not removed in hinge etc. from getting 'too happy' w/saw, cutting too much. To start on this chessboard, that might require moves at times beyond checkers.
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