what lengths to cut 600' of KM-III

what lengths to cut 600\' of KM-III

I am planning to do some SRT climbing - Coast Redwoods and Giant Redwoods. So, I bought a 600' spool of 9.5mm KM-III.

It's too much rope, and so, I want to cut it. The two thoughts I have are 300+300 and 400+200. Any input?

300+300 would be good as I want to train my little brother and would have 2 identical sets of gear.

400+200 would be better because 400 is a good length for a tall tree with a base tie-in. And, 200 is a nice general length for packing anywhere.

Thanks, Robert
 
Re: what lengths to cut 600\' of KM-III

For your application in big trees 400/200 makes good sense. In general, for us folks that climb 'little' trees the 300/300 makes more sense.

Let us know what you decide in the end.
 
Re: what lengths to cut 600\' of KM-III

I agree with Tom. For the biguns', 400 would be nice since some that I climbed had the first limb at 200'. Otherwise, cut three 200' lines and tie them together for the biguns'.
 
Re: what lengths to cut 600\' of KM-III

What is needed, and what would be nice to have are two different things. Imagine how much heavier this rope will be when soaking wet. Is the truck too far away for a separate trip for the jug line?

It's good you are considering these factors early in the climb planning process. Imagine hanging in a tree overnight while waiting for help to arrive if you get stuck! Lots of good answers have surfaced from the group so far.

The length of rope may depend on what height your line launcher will deliver the rope setting to. If the pilot line drops over a limb that is 175' up, then a 400' line may work. Some bows will do this reliably. If you are shooting a Big Shot to 125-140' with fishing line & a 2 or 3 oz. weight, then 300' will do.

If the ground is steep, the line may fall far downhill, requiring more line. If the line has to be tied around a fat trunk as an anchor, more line may be needed.

One safety consideration is that since you bought the skinny stuff, it will literally race through your descender, especially when wet (in the rainforest). The braking effectiveness of those mechanical devices is really dependant on rope diameter.

Consider a second descender, tethered with a short lanyard just above your primary friction device.

The long ropes have lots of braking near the top of a descent, due to the weight of the ropes tail hanging down a couple hundred feet. As the descent progresses, the rope will start to have less and less grip on the descender. Near the ground, the climber receives very little assist from the weight of the rope. Small diameter lines become your enemy when you are most tired and in need of control at the end of a couple hundred feet of descent.

Please note the maximum speed stamped on the side of the Petzl Stop, for example. It says to drop less than 2 meters per second. The heat buildup can ruin that expensive line quickly. Also, with this device, it is easy to get distracted and load it onto the rope upside down, which is fatal.

One way around this slippage is to 'double down'. This means to run two strands of rope thru a figure eight.

Or, run a single line thru the figure eight twice. This is good for short runs, with the tails hanging free of the ground, so that they can untwist freely.

You'll get good at judging the stretch, to know if a line can reach the ground from the height you begin at. More ropes to select from solves lots of these types of problems.

When borrowing other climbers line in the tree, be conservative. Different types of hardware behave differently with the variety of ropes we use.

Just as you wouldn't want them to glaze or melt your line, be respectful of the investment they made when purchasing and hauling in line to the remote locations where the nice trees are located.

Be safe out there, and enjoy the great outdoors!
 
Re: what lengths to cut 600\' of KM-III

Thank you all so much for the response.
I like a mini rack-4 bars, but don't think it will do with this 9.8mm line-when wet.

One last question...some people suggest a back-up Prusik above the rap device and some people suggest it be below the rap device. Any input?

Thanks,
Robert
 

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