Triple Edge Saw Sharpening

RopeShield

RopeShield

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Ontario, Canada
Its not that hard to do.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDkXVlSPXgI

If you sharpen it before it gets real dull, it makes it easier to follow the angles and you will have less material to take off.
From my experience, the teeth in the centre of the saw need to be touched up more often.
I like to use a fine stone to smooth out the dings and such on the tooth edges or the flat side of the saw and then sand and oil.
Helps relieve alot of the elbow grease/pains. If you know what I mean.
I must save a 100 or more dollars every year.
My one Sugoi is over 5 years old now.
I have also sharpened Ibuki, Stihl brand pole saw(large notched), small tooth Corona.

Cheers
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Nice!

Thanks for posting!

I was literally about to purchase a new blade this morning, but I might jump for the feather file instead.

Question - the sand paper you mention at the end - do you just run that along the flat side of the saw blade to take off burs and stuff?
 
Stone works best along both flat sides along the tooth. paper will just tear up there.

You can use the stone all across the blade.
400 grit or finer sand paper plus the oil to get it as smooth as glass.

I finished Silver Crown reduction with the new sharpies and I have to admit I did a pretty darn good job.

Actually think it is even more aggressive now?

Probabley in my head but it sure feels good that I saved my self another 100 or so bucks. Definitey worth the 30 minutes it took to do two saws.
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Got my file from treestuff.com...Thanks for the recommendation.

Question: it looks in your video like your running the file into/towards the cutting edge? Does it make a difference which direction you run the file relative to the sharp edge?

Cheers.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Got my file from treestuff.com...Thanks for the recommendation.

Question: it looks in your video like your running the file into/towards the cutting edge? Does it make a difference which direction you run the file relative to the sharp edge?

Cheers.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think it just looks that way. I am filing away from the cutter edge.
I try to file all one side and in one direction before I change to another side.

I find it helps to do 6 or so teeth at a time held at the vice firmly and to draw an imaginary line to follow.

Good flood lighting helps also to see the file pull the material off and you can see the steel shine up across the whole surface.

I am guessing here but if the tooth is not badly dulled you may be able to just touch up the top tip cutter and avoid the side filing. I have feeling this could be a nice short cut for one or two filings.
Happy filing and hope you find your grove.
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I was taught in college to always sharpen INTO the cutter's edge.

when we sharpened racing axes or any cutting tool and i have always followed it.

if anyone has some time, see if you can look up on internet or something, I'm quite sure you will find you should sharpen into a cutting edge.

most general people always think it's the opposite.

think about a pen knife on a stone, how do you sharpen it?
 
Yeah same here. I will give it a try again. Rain day for us here. Morning any ways.
There is bit more difficulty sharpening into the cutter. Similar to sharpening into the cutter on a chain saw chain.

Thank X
 
ahh, i see. i did not have time to view video yet either, and might not, since blades are only $35 and 1 last about 6 months.

but i have always wondered about sharpening, thanks.
 
Priced a replacement Sugoi. $ 60.00. The Silky and Other Tri-Edgers all run about 30 to 50 dollars.

Another point I would like to make.
North America in general looks at most products as being disposable.I think as arborists it is our duty to be more conscientious.

The time and energy and effort to get that saw to you to then throw in the recycle bin(I hope)is exactly what this world needs less off.
The total cost of filing is truely a smaller drain on the environment.

This is a Pretty good feeling to share with you all.

I'm not perfect either, I have 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton truck on the road. That is a whole lot of carbon footprints to make up for.
Many things we can do but for some its "penny wise and pound silly".
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My first saw an o34 10 yrs old, was cooked but I had to try and resurrect it. Well ended up spending almost $300 on it to see it run for about 1/2 tank.
Sharpening a Tri-edge is easy peasy with a little practice and I would say only twice as hard to do than sharpening a chainsaw.
 
Ropeshield,

Finally finished sharpening my Sugoi today - (took a couple days worth of lunch breaks to do it).

The first 15 teeth or so were quite a challenge, but after that, muscle memory took over and it started to get easier pretty quickly. Next sharpening will probably go pretty quick.

The trickiest part seemed to be the "third edge", or the top part of the tooth. Seems important to get this one right, as it's doing a lot of the digging into the wood as you pull back, right? Well, it's pretty small and difficult to see clearly, particularly the angle. Any tips on how to do that part right?

Thanks again for posting this - $25 on a file vs. $60 on a new blade (+ a wasted, unsharpened blade in the scrap metal bucket) - totally worth it!
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[ QUOTE ]
Ropeshield,

Finally finished sharpening my Sugoi today - (took a couple days worth of lunch breaks to do it).

The first 15 teeth or so were quite a challenge, but after that, muscle memory took over and it started to get easier pretty quickly. Next sharpening will probably go pretty quick.

The trickiest part seemed to be the "third edge", or the top part of the tooth. Seems important to get this one right, as it's doing a lot of the digging into the wood as you pull back, right? Well, it's pretty small and difficult to see clearly, particularly the angle. Any tips on how to do that part right?

Thanks again for posting this - $25 on a file vs. $60 on a new blade (+ a wasted, unsharpened blade in the scrap metal bucket) - totally worth it!
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Hey thats awesome. So happy to help!
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Muscle memory is a good way to describe it.
The top edge for me was the easier one and it is the primary digger.
The overhead flood light helps alot.
Start with the teeth closest to the handle since they tend not to get used and so will give you the best point and angle to work from and then match that angle to the remaining teeth.

Oh! I like to use the sharper side of the file for the top edge or I have a smaller triangle file for the top edge to save wear on the feather file.
I forget about that because Its kept in my chainsaw file bag.
Good Idea here to. One file but it has three sides, works well to take down the chain saw rakers.
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Cheers.
 
Yeah we could of announced the happenings. Chance to share a beer was missed. Mb next time.

I had a table/display in the bubble in the corner near the big bay door. Hockin m'wares. I had on a well worn out green Kangol cap on.

Good group of grads this season.
 
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