Tree spades and Glazing

the big things that cause glazing are
1) like @Reach said - repeated motion in the hole. Think auger. However, if you go down and up pretty quick with an auger, depending on soil type and conditions, glazing isn't "automatic". We still break up the sides of the hole a little after with a shovel just to make sure.
2) "pushing the soil" out of the way. (ever use a dibble bar?).
 
the big things that cause glazing are
1) like @Reach said - repeated motion in the hole. Think auger. However, if you go down and up pretty quick with an auger, depending on soil type and conditions, glazing isn't "automatic". We still break up the sides of the hole a little after with a shovel just to make sure.
2) "pushing the soil" out of the way. (ever use a dibble bar?).
Soil condition is a huge part of glazing.
 
Although i've never tried it (but i'm about to), welding a piece of rebar onto the auger blade so that it extends about an inch into the side of the hole will break the glaze.
 
I don't know about that I mean you drill a 36" hole for a tree you almost always trim the sides of the hole for the initial plumbing of the tree. Or at least I do. Then I'll trim a bit more of the sides and take the sod to the bottom of the hole, cut the cage and trim the burlap back, and back fill compact in layers as I work my way out.
But sounds like a good idea.
 
We oversize the auger with ball size
36” ball =44” auger
And they make larger teeth to bolt on the auger bit
We have a 48” auger bit and had triangles that bolt on the edges in two spots that act like teeth and they cut in very nice
Just have to clean out the bottom a few times
 

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