tree motion setup

M

maarten

Location
Aquitaine, France
hi guys,

an on and of luker here. good stuff happens here!

after a long wait my TM finally arrived. have been climbing around with it in a view trees now and really like it. i was wondering if there is anyone who has found some good solutions for setting her up.

so far i'm looking in to the following:

- a good place to hang the ms200, have tried the ring on the back for when the saw is not in use but found the saw dangling about a bit to much. i have used an simple clip to click in the saw on the side when the saw is in use, but so far i found the most obvious place(there where there is the L shaped thingie) a bit far to the back. i feel like i am twisting around far to get the saw.

- same for the hand saw, just a bit to high in the most obvious place on the left side.

- a way to connect a croll for srt ascent

- is there anybody who has played around with a second bridge

- length of the bridge, what do you prefer and why?

- the manual proposes to connect things to the leg straps, huh??
confused.gif


- the connectors at both ends of the bridge, have used them on drt and liked it, but i so far not sure when is the moment to use them (under odd angles?)

anyhow a bit much maybe to ask for, but why not.

for the ones that have read all the way to the end of this post, attached is a picture of a Sequoia, i will be taking down tomorrow..shame for we don't see them to often in these parts..

plan to use a speed line to get the branches down, then big tjunks via a block and a porta-wrap. the rest in one go when it can pass under the ceder. there is a guy from a sawmill going to pick up the trunk...i always thought the wood is not so good for a carpenter..

got a bit carried away there
tongue.gif


thanks
 

Attachments

  • 133150-IMG_0535_1.webp
    133150-IMG_0535_1.webp
    63.4 KB · Views: 237
as far as a croll set up goes, your going to have to buy two spectra tethers and girth hitch them to your lower set of d rings, or upper set up the croll works best when lower on the body, the upper d rings set the croll way to high after adding carabiner and croll itself. Dont buy the suspenders for the treemotion, they are basically the exact same thing as the petzl secure suspenders but almost 5 times as much, and they aren't important for setting up the croll when a simple shoe lace around the back of the neck will help advance the croll up rope

I actually bought a treeflex because the treemotion lacked the croll attachment, now I use my treemotion mainly for removals or if I plan on footlocking into the canopy

Length of bridge, I keep mine longer than most for the basic concept of center of gravity. A longer bridge makes my saddle feel more comfortable while sitting down. I tried a shorter bridge and didn't like it, probably because I climbed on a long bridge for 6 months before I tried to make the switch

As far as the second set of d rings goes, I've never used them connected
together, I prefer a rope bridge over single attachment, but I do use them
for a secondary lanyard here and there, in the winter months when I bulk up the clothing I actually put my lanyard on the second set to avoid saddle sores from the saddle compressing my many pairs of thermals into my hips. It works great

One more thing, dont buy the treemotion replacement bridge, it is way too costly and a smaller diameter kmlll line will work just as good if not better and only cost you 3 bucks to replace compaired to 22bucks for the treemotion replacement cordage. I've been experimenting with different cords for my bridge, so far I'm loving kmlll on my treeflex
 
[ QUOTE ]
One more thing, dont buy the treemotion replacement bridge, it is way too costly and a smaller diameter kmlll line will work just as good if not better and only cost you 3 bucks to replace compaired to 22bucks for the treemotion replacement cordage.

[/ QUOTE ]

i just replaced my tm bridge for $4.49 at a local cordage retailer: www.fisheriessupply.com

according to the receipt it's teufelberger sirius 500. maybe they do mail order?
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln...act/A01/Ntk/All
 
Great find Kathy!!!!! I still prefer my kmlll over the latter of the two, but I have yet to try it out with my tm

Btw, the price I was refering to was the sherrill price in there catalog. I didn't even think to google the brand of rope.

Once again, awesome find
 
$22 for a replacement bridge on the TM? That seems a bit unfair. That must be some special green rope. That comes out to almost, what...$10/ft? Holy smokes!

love
nick
 
The bridge on the tM is made of Globe 3000, a Dyneema core line with a breaking strain of 3400daN for 10mm. This line is specified as the rope bridge on the tM, if replaced by something else the warranty by the manufacturer is void.

The reason this line is used is that on the bridge you really want something bomb-proof, not cheap. The Sirius 500 line is a good quality polyester line without a doubt. For the same diameter its breaking strain is 2600daN.

These strengths are in a direct pull, obviously when configured with knots and all this number will decrease. And yes indeed, Dyneema is expensive. But my feeling is that it's good to have an ample safety margin on your main attachment point.

So please, don't cut corners on this one and get the proper line... just doesn't seem worth the risk.

If in any doubt there is a section on the treemagineers web-site on replacing your rope bridge. Link is here

Climb safe – not cheap.
 
there is such a thing as too much strength. For example. I recently had an interest in making some rigging false crotchs. I thought of making them out of amsteel because of its incredible strength. Then I realized, amsteel is great, but the rings used to make the false crotch are only rated at 500 pounds wll. So it didn't make sense to use amsteel, not when the weakest part of the fc will always be the rings

If kmlll is rated high enough, or the line that kathy found, and it saves over twenty dollars, then why would one look elsewhere, what are the d rings rated at on the tm anyway, are they strong enough to withstand the same beating the "recommended" rope can take?

Btw. I dont mean to come off as a jerk. It just seems crazy to pay the extra money when a cheaper line will do the same trick. I'm sure the exporting rates aren't helping matters with the price of the line. Is the line much cheaper over seas?
 
Yeah well what ever the cost of a replacement.

If ever there would be such a force on the bridge that would come any where near the backing strength, you would be in a very tight spot.

So where is the added benefit of such a rope if you take out of account the degradation of the rope after use?

For then you would have waited to long to replace it at any rate???..
 
thanks for the correction mark - i did get the correct knot off the website but still can't find where the rope name/manufacturer or specs can be found ?? which i guess i need by internationals since the bridge isn't approved by the mfg? geez. so who makes globe 3000? is it teufelberger still?
thx.
k.
 
Familytree, at the end of the day, it's your choice. Personally I tend to go with manufacturers recommendations

Kathy, it wasn't a correction, just maybe a cautioning. Teufelberger makes the Globe lines. I'll bring some over for St. Louis, OK?

Regards, M.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom