Here are some thoughts I have about the treeflex. Each point is numbered (not in order, I just added them as I thought of them) to address the points Paolo brought up to Nick in the previous post:
#5: My bridge also bunched up. The bridge which the saddle came with, I incorporated your idea (paolo) of an additional rope (supplied by you, 7/16" KMIII sheath) outer sleeve inserted underneath the original outer sleeve.
This all turned into a mess very quickly as the KMIII sheath became unraveled despite the electrical tape holding the fibers in place. So I junked it, and re-did my own bridge. Works very well now. But first I pulled out the KMIII sheath, and just used the bridge as it came from the factory.
The point being that you (the inventor) created a 'work around' on the original design. That 'work around' involves a modification.
Most climbers I know do not want to have to modify a saddle right out of the box in order for it to work properly or better.
Because the original outer sleeve is a light webbing sleeve, it moves around on the bridge, and bunches. At least it did with mine. So the older it gets, the softer it gets, and the more it bunches. I do not understand how your bridge would become 'smoother' over time. With my bridge, that outer covering got so soft that the entire outer sheath would slide to one side and bunch up. Just a wad of tubular webbing bunched up on the shackle.
When fabric becomes worn, it gets softer. The alum. ring, or biners on the saddle slid back and forth repeatedly, working the fabric and wearing it. So the longer you use the saddle, the softer the fabric covering the bridge will get.
We all know how fabric which is soft will bunch. Just think of a new pair of pants. When new, the pants are stiff, when old, they are soft and flexible.
I wonder how your bridge covering would become stiffer as it ages. What you say makes no sense to me at all. Maybe your bridge is modified from the factory? Are you using a pulley on your bridge like the one which was made for the Glide saddle?
If you have modified your saddle from the factory Paolo,
I would encourage you to only use your saddle as it comes from the factory, because then you will have a greater understanding of what a typical climber experiences who has bought the saddle and is using it from the factory.
The saddle is designed FOR the customer, not the inventor.
Right?
#s 1,2 & 3:
In a perfect setting, such as the trade room floor, yes it is easy to 'tuck' the webbing straps underneath themselves. I listened carefully, and watched how you did it.
Unfortunately, in the real world, this solution is all but useless to me.
Here is why;
When you cinch up the saddle, all the webbing straps lay very tightly against the waist. So tucking the straps becomes a problem. Especially when you are wearing a, for example, sweatshirt or coat, gloves on, and the saddle loaded with a chain saw & heavy gear.
Then it is a real PITA to find the inner webbing strap, lift it up, and then insert the webbing under it.
NIck's idea of velcro is far from perfect as velcro becomes filled with debri over time, but at least it is fast and easy. I like the idea and will do the same.
However, asking a climber to sew velcro on to a saddle right out of the box is not very reasonable. Most climbers want a saddle which works out of the box, and works well.
Especially for the relatively high price tag of the treeflex.
Your other solution for the webbing is to double it back and forth and then tuck it under the 'ice clipper rubber'. I think you mean the elastic strap. That elastic strap is very light duty, and over a brief period of time becomes 'sprung' or loses it's elasticity. So bunching several layers of webbing under it, is a temporary solution at best. Also bunched webbing creates a lump which will grab twigs and stubs and just fall out of the webbing anyway.
#9: My 'D' rings also rotate easily. They also flop back and forth easily. You say this is a problem from the factory.
Are you saying there is a quality control issue with the TreeFlex?
#11: Paolo, the adjustments are fine, it is the little black webbing tab which is so small that it can hardly be grabbed, let alone hold it and pull it to release the buckles.
This little tab is so small that, again, with gloves on, it is not easy to grab it and release the buckle to take the saddle off.
#3: Captivating the floppy D rings is a good thing. The point being to hold the D rings in either the forward position or the back position, not have them flop back and forth on their own.
#7: Because the nubbins are solid, I am assuming it will be o.k. to sew through the saddle back without harming the nubbins.
Nick, I would personally use a 'walking foot' industrial sewing machine to do the stitching. Make sure you use a thread such as 'irish linen' which is resistant to gasoline or oil contamination.
#7.1: Regarding sewing through the saddle; I personally use the Caritool on my saddle. For me having a flat spine biner to hold things is essential as I like to have an attachment point which is at right angles to the saddle. It makes it easy for me to hook and unhook gear.
Paolo, your solution to this is to attach the Caritool to the side of the saddle, hooked onto the waist strap webbing. With your method, as you bend and flex, the waist strap webbing tightens and releases thus allowing the Caritool to move back and forth.
The problem I have experienced is that the Caritool will 'walk' or slide back and forth on the saddle. It will slide right up to the D ring, and then my flip line hardware/prussik becomes tangled up with it. Or it will move to the rear of the saddle, and be out of reach.
Could be a safety issue using the Caritool on the treeflex because when the prussik cord/ ART positioner /micro-adjuster gets hooked onto the Caritool, it may not grab the flip line correctly and prevent the flip line from holding.
I sewed a sleeve onto the webbing strap which the Caritool slides into. That way the Caritool stays exactly where I need it to. Right behind the right D ring.
#7.2: The gear loops. On the treeflex the gear loops have a common clear rubber tubing over the webbing straps. The rubber tubing is the same as common rubber tubing you can buy at the hardware store.
The tubing creates a gear loop which stays open. Like Nick said the tubing is stiff, but perhaps not stiff enough. Small point, but valid.
My experience is that the webbing which the tubing is covering, is very light weight. In the space between the tubing and where the webbing is sewn to the saddle, this area is a high wear area. Already the webbing is showing signs of wear at this point. I sure would hate to have a gear loop fail.
My suggestion is to get rid of the plastic tubing, and sew the gear loops out of a thicker doubled stiff webbing. Sort of like the method used in making the bridge. That method would ensure the gear loops last a good long time.
I like the comment Nick made: "The saddle is a great first generation saddle"
For the climber who does not have extra money to throw around, perhaps waiting for the second generation of treeflex would be a good idea. That is, if there will be a second generation treeflex.
I personally like the TreeFlex, and I am very very grateful to Rescue Technology for providing me with one to use. I just think the saddle needs some 'tweaking' to make it even better.
Paolo, it is really nice for you to respond to saddle questions and comments in public. Rare for a person involved with the manufacture of tree gear to do.
We, as customers of tree gear hardly ever get the chance to deal directly with a manufacturer or inventor.
I just do not really trust what you say, or rather I take what you say with a grain of salt. The reason is the treeflex is your baby, you have been involved with it from the beginning, and I get the impression that you are not very objective about it, and perhaps overlook or gloss over issues with the saddle.
Frans
