Teco forestry bucket problems

[OhioMike]

Hey everybody,

I have a 1988 c7000 GMC TECO forestry bucket truck. The truck runs and drives it has the 8.2 liter Detroit diesel motor. The motor starts up so easy but is not really the strongest motor I was wondering is there any little modifications I can do I think the air filter is a little limiting because all the air has to come through about a 6-inch hole

But I was able to buy it cash and then willing to put a little bit of work and money into it to get it cutting down trees once again.

Right now I have been using the truck basically as just a chip truck.

Both of the hydraulic Outrigger cylinders are leaking and I am trying to figure out what the best way to repair them would be. I check the hydraulic lines that are running to the Outriggers and they are not leaking at the fittings.

I am not sure the best way to repair the cylinder because the foot on the Outrigger is welded on and there is no opening at the top where I could take the hydraulic cylinder out. Just wondering if anybody has done this repaired before.

The Outrigger is only held on by 3 bolts but the Outrigger cannot lift up because the step and brackets for the bolts will not fit through the hole on the floor and it cannot go down because the ground is in the way.

The other problem that I am having is the bucket does not operate from the controls inside of the bucket it looks like a small line is busted at the previous owner said controlled the emergency shut off when you pull the pistol.

I have a few pictures of the busted line and I'm just trying to confirm that this is what it controls. He said that he believes it is an airline or possibly a very small hydraulic line it is only about 1/16 of an inch inside diameter.

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[craneguy1]

The "spaghetti line" is an airline that holds a few psi once you grab the pistol. It runs from the captive air valve, through the boom, down into the turret to the solenoid you pictured. The factory also ran spares when built...blowing into the line should activate the boom.The solenoid also runs off electricity from the palm switch nest ro the lower controls. Consider the system "the dead man", it controls throttle up and also allows the boom to move. In terms of leaking cylinders, take the truck to a bucket shop, its not redicous to have them pull them off...someone on here just had one done this past winter and was plesantly surprised on the price.

 

[Jehinten]

I had the lift cylinder for the lower boom rebuilt for about $600 including removing and reinstalling on the truck at a local hydraulic shop. Well worth it

As for the outriggers, personally I'd let the shop take them off, but you either have to dig a hole big enough for the outriggers to extend all the way down or lift the truck enough. There should be a pin to drive out to remove the body of the outrigger, then bolts at the top in that access hole that is pictured.

 

[OhioMike]

Thanks for the response guys. I was worried about the outriggers I was thinking they would be around 1000 a piece but that sounds alot more reasonable hopefully.

I was also looking at the hydraulic fluid spec and it was saying to use mil-h-5606 can I use something else right now it looks like it has some aw-32 in it. The fluid is clear not red.

So should there be an extra line already in there somewhere or should I run a new one or just try to repair the break.

I am currently a weekend maybe 1 weekday warrior. But I climb full time for my normal job. Just trying to build slowly until I can switch over.

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[Jimmycrackcorn]

but you either have to dig a hole big enough for the outriggers to extend all the way down or lift the truck enough. There should be a pin to drive out to remove the body of the outrigger, then bolts at the top in that access hole that is pictured.

This ∆∆∆∆∆...

That or find the edge of the road... Something you can straddle..

I was also looking at the hydraulic fluid spec and it was saying to use mil-h-5606 can I use something else right now it looks like it has some aw-32 in it. The fluid is clear not red.

Idk my freind.. I've heard it both ways with hydo fluids... I've heard some wrong ones can destroy your seals, & then ive heard the ole addage "there all the same, just throw it in".. However, what i would do is look up the specs of your suggested hydro & see what classifications it meets, only then would i be comfortable mixing or substituting. Who knows.. maybe your leak was caused by the wrong fluid.. ya know?

As far as your lines go.. i didn't really read into what you said, but lines are easy when u have the correct tools & know what fittings are appropriate for what hose, etc. If it was mine, I'd already have the tools needed for repairing the typical gremlins.. Push-lok is a really easy hose & fitting system that can double for a bunch of scenarios.. as long as it's under 300psi, no clamps, no crimps needed, Just throwing it out there for future reference. I know if i owned hydro equipment i would definitely have a hose crimper, the correct dies, spare fittings & hose ready to go.

I'd probably even have the correct stuff to repair cylinders, I'd just find a way as long as it wasn't holding income up. I refuse to pay ppl to work on stuff anymore, i haven't had an acceptable mechanic experience in probably 10yrs.. Every freaking single time, something is half assed, lied about, missed or straight up avoided. I've got a physical list of fuck ups to remind me of why not to pay ppl to work on stuff. I keep it handy to reflect upon everytime im feeling lazy about fixing something myself.

Maybe you but the cylinder & replace it yourself.. doing so would force you to buy the tools you need instead of paying someone to use theirs.. Then next time you need a 3/4 drive impact to blow some wheels off after a flat, you'll have what you need & not have to rely on anyone but yourself.

As far as your Detroit.. is it turbo charger or is she an old lead sled? I'm sure there are ways to create more power, especially with the older beautes.. the air fuel mix is relatively easy to mess with, but you need to know what your doing. The rest of the rig needs to good to go as well.. You can't turn it up if the rest of the system is limping. Well, yeah, you could.. but I'd recommend against.

Start with the basics.. air/fuel/water filters, then move onto your fuel supplies, pumps etc. I don't know the motor's fuel supply method so i can't point you in any other direction.


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[Stephen Moore]

This ∆∆∆∆∆...

That or find the edge of the road... Something you can straddle..




Idk my freind.. I've heard it both ways with hydo fluids... I've heard some wrong ones can destroy your seals, & then ive heard the ole addage "there all the same, just throw it in".. However, what i would do is look up the specs of your suggested hydro & see what classifications it meets, only then would i be comfortable mixing or substituting. Who knows.. maybe your leak was caused by the wrong fluid.. ya know?

As far as your lines go.. i didn't really read into what you said, but lines are easy when u have the correct tools & know what fittings are appropriate for what hose, etc. If it was mine, I'd already have the tools needed for repairing the typical gremlins.. Push-lok is a really easy hose & fitting system that can double for a bunch of scenarios.. as long as it's under 300psi, no clamps, no crimps needed, Just throwing it out there for future reference. I know if i owned hydro equipment i would definitely have a hose crimper, the correct dies, spare fittings & hose ready to go.

I'd probably even have the correct stuff to repair cylinders, I'd just find a way as long as it wasn't holding income up. I refuse to pay ppl to work on stuff anymore, i haven't had an acceptable mechanic experience in probably 10yrs.. Every freaking single time, something is half assed, lied about, missed or straight up avoided. I've got a physical list of fuck ups to remind me of why not to pay ppl to work on stuff. I keep it handy to reflect upon everytime im feeling lazy about fixing something myself.

Maybe you but the cylinder & replace it yourself.. doing so would force you to buy the tools you need instead of paying someone to use theirs.. Then next time you need a 3/4 drive impact to blow some wheels off after a flat, you'll have what you need & not have to rely on anyone but yourself.

As far as your Detroit.. is it turbo charger or is she an old lead sled? I'm sure there are ways to create more power, especially with the older beautes.. the air fuel mix is relatively easy to mess with, but you need to know what your doing. The rest of the rig needs to good to go as well.. You can't turn it up if the rest of the system is limping. Well, yeah, you could.. but I'd recommend against.

Start with the basics.. air/fuel/water filters, then move onto your fuel supplies, pumps etc. I don't know the motor's fuel supply method so i can't point you in any other direction.


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Hydraulic fluids have different viscosities. If the fluid is too thick it can slow down the operation of cycles. It matters most in cold climates. Up here in Canada we run thin fluids because of that. However, the manufacturer will suggest a grade that works best for your pump and reservoir. The reservoir size is what cools the fluid so the pump doesn’t overheat. Again, friction and pressure creates heat, that heat can ruin seals and destroy your hydraulic pump over time. Also as was mentioned, there usually is two air lines, one for the emergency shut off and one for the joystick control. There is also an electrical panel that some guys jump a terminal to bypass that kill switch in the event the air hose or valve is screwed. You can operate the upper boom controls without the emergency cut off, I would seriously advise against it. If you ever blow a hose up top near the bucket, you will want to shut off the truck immediately! You will run your pump dry in minutes and that makes a huge mess and is very expensive. You also may want to stay in a position for a long time and there is no need to keep the truck running?
Make sure to test your lock out valves regularly. position the boom and bucket against a fixed object and shut the truck off with the upper boom at 45 degrees. It should not move even after an hour.
In my opinion, if this truck has been neglected, it should be gone over by a certified mechanic that deals with bucket trucks. We had an old truck, the hoses were rotten, pump tired etc. It was cheaper to sell it for parts than fix it. Seriously, these old trucks can be expensive to operate.
Maybe go to an auction or check the local electrical contractors for older trucks they are going to auction off. If the company is large, the trucks will have a fleet mechanic or many of them? And the trucks are usually in great running order.

 

[craneguy1]

Our teco(s) have always used a shell product called aeroshell fluid number 4. It is red for leak detection purposes and used in airplanes...it is also dialectrically safe due to possible lightning strikes (in airplanes). Sou ds to me you have a bit of knowledge from at at least one source when you said it wasn't red. Others will work, but numbers should mesh to mix. Btw...that is a very aged bucket.

 

[craneguy1]

There is not an emergency cutoff on that unit... and the upper controls are low pressure down to the pedastal where they go into the main valve bank and are converted to high pressure which is then sent to the cylinders.

 

[treebilly]

Outriggers come out from the bottom. Only advice I can give. Never even seen a TECO boom aside from pics

 

[Stephen Moore]

There is not an emergency cutoff on that unit... and the upper controls are low pressure down to the pedastal where they go into the main valve bank and are converted to high pressure which is then sent to the cylinders.

Yeah she’s pretty beat up looking! Maintenance might be an issue?

 

[Stephen Moore]

The overspray on the paint always concerns me!?

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

The overspray on the paint always concerns me!?

Haha.. why's that?
You talking bout on the lines or the whole body? I find that pretty common in used stuff.. even new stuff. Brand new Bandit had all the lines painted.. personally i hate it when ppl do that but that's just my personal opinion.

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[Stephen Moore]

Haha.. why's that?
You talking bout on the lines or the whole body? I find that pretty common in used stuff.. even new stuff. Brand new Bandit had all the lines painted.. personally i hate it when ppl do that but that's just my personal opinion.

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No it’s just that on older gear many people try to hide rust and stuff with a 7 dollar can of paint. I’d rather be able to see deficiencies then I know what needs repair.

 

[OhioMike]

No it’s just that on older gear many people try to hide rust and stuff with a 7 dollar can of paint. I’d rather be able to see deficiencies then I know what needs repair.

I know the company that this bucket came from they paint all there stuff like that it is an old paint job. The truck was white and Yellow originally.

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[Stephen Moore]

I know the company that this bucket came from they paint all there stuff like that it is an old paint job. The truck was white and Yellow originally.

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Did you get it super cheap?

 

[Stephen Moore]

Tires for these trucks, at least up here, are not less the 650 each! Depending on where you live passing commercial inspection can be an issue with older trucks, with tires and brakes etc. Is that an air brake truck or conventional drum?

 

[OhioMike]

Tires for these trucks, at least up here, are not less the 650 each! Depending on where you live passing commercial inspection can be an issue with older trucks, with tires and brakes etc. Is that an air brake truck or conventional drum?

I got it for a good price I put a new steer tire on it for 250 with tube and flap. Not cheap but not 650.

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