Suighara chain

[evo]

Just saw wesspur is stocking reels (and making loops?) of Suighara chain in 3/8 .050. Unfortunately their site is so bad it doesn’t specify full comp, semi, or even chisel, semi or homeowner. The photo looks like chisel.

Any one try this chain out?

 

[27RMT0N]

I was going to say 'never even knew Sugi made chain' but that page specifically says "the latest innovation from Sugihara: their first chainsaw chain!"

Maybe they have added to the description since you saw it, but a few lines down it does say: "Optimized for Cutting Power: The single raker full chisel design delivers aggressive, precise, and efficient cutting for demanding tasks." That obviously doesn't answer all of the questions, and you can't really trust stock photos to actually be what you are buying...

I have tons of chain at home, but maybe next time I make an order, I'll get one or two to try out.

 

[Matias]

I just wish they had 92 link loops for my 28". They only have 72 link (20") and 84 link (24")
and don't seem to have an option for custom sizing. I saw it a few days ago, but I just haven't been running my 24" anymore. I should probably sell the 24" Sugi bar so I can justify getting the 36" for my 395. I just have a stock 32" on it that came with my 572, but I like it better with the 28" on it.

 

[Serf Life]

I just wish they had 92 link loops for my 28". They only have 72 link (20") and 84 link (24")
and don't seem to have an option for custom sizing. I saw it a few days ago, but I just haven't been running my 24" anymore. I should probably sell the 24" Sugi bar so I can justify getting the 36" for my 395. I just have a stock 32" on it that came with my 572, but I like it better with the 28" on it.

Mentioned in the other thread, arbsession has 36” tsumura lightweight for husq $160 or so. We have sugi and tsumura and zero issues with the latter and cheaper. Have a 24” lightweight used heavy and rough probably 4yrs or more old by now. Had a sugi tip chip early on on one saw but have another 28 that seems like new still.

 

[Z'sTrees]

I bought a couple loops of the sugihara chain. I haven't used it much other than bucking up some aspen firewood at the house. It's full chisel, seems to cut well and hold an edge maybe a little better than oregon, I am assuming the steel will be a little harder to file like stihl chain.

 

[evo]

Let me know once you touch it up. I’m not a fan of Oregon chain

 

[Maplegeddon213]

Let me know once you touch it up. I’m not a fan of Oregon chain

What about Oregon chain bothers you? I prefer it over stihl because it seems to me a lot softer to file.

 

[Matias]

What about Oregon chain bothers you? I prefer it over stihl because it seems to me a lot softer to file.

softer metals are easier to sharpen, but the trade off is that they dull easier. This is good if you like to touch up frequently and have a gentle hand. If you like an edge to hold longer, and are heavy handed with the file, then you'll tend to prefer harder alloys. Literally, different strokes.

 

[southsoundtree]

If you/ crew hit a lot of nails or dirt, Oregon is more forgiving.

I run Stihl for the most part.

 

[evo]

What about Oregon chain bothers you? I prefer it over stihl because it seems to me a lot softer to file.

Pretty much what the others just said. The only thing I have to add is longevity seems I can get atleast x3 the life span outta stihl chain

 

[Serf Life]

If you/ crew hit a lot of nails or dirt, Oregon is more forgiving.

I run Stihl for the most part.

We run Oregon,Carlton,Husq chains which are very similar mostly due to your point: dirty environments and metal. Been considering running Stihl on the larger saws that don’t see as much dirt, but then flush a bunch of stumps, smoke feet upon feet of skip tooth, and decide not to. Maybe switch the tophandles to Stihl?

 

[Matias]

We run Oregon,Carlton,Husq chains which are very similar mostly due to your point: dirty environments and metal. Been considering running Stihl on the larger saws that don’t see as much dirt, but then flush a bunch of stumps, smoke feet upon feet of skip tooth, and decide not to. Maybe switch the tophandles to Stihl?

I think I may try that idea. My top handles are exclusively for in tree use. Do they have the same dl count on their premade loops in the 16" and under?

 

[evo]

Either that or derate a bigger saw to flushing stumps.
It takes a little extra time but I do save my worn out chains where they are filed to or just beyond the indicator line. These hang in the tool box and I’ll slap one on for flushing or cutting roots. Just a few quick licks to keep them semi sharp before tossing them out entirely.
I have a pretty worn out 150 with the quarter tip bar that works great for roots, keep that on rotation with the 2511 that won’t stay running at idle.

 

[Matias]

Either that or derate a bigger saw to flushing stumps.
It takes a little extra time but I do save my worn out chains where they are filed to or just beyond the indicator line. These hang in the tool box and I’ll slap one on for flushing or cutting roots. Just a few quick licks to keep them semi sharp before tossing them out entirely.
I have a pretty worn out 150 with the quarter tip bar that works great for roots, keep that on rotation with the 2511 that won’t stay running at idle.

That reminds me that I really need to figure that problem out. The new company I started with this week has the same issue with practically all the top handles, and I am told that the 194 and the 201 were just sent to "the mechanic". I don't think they went to the dealer shop, but it feels so ridiculous to start a saw, get it lined up for the cut and then have it just fucking stop.

 

[evo]

That reminds me that I really need to figure that problem out. The new company I started with this week has the same issue with practically all the top handles, and I am told that the 194 and the 201 were just sent to "the mechanic". I don't think they went to the dealer shop, but it feels so ridiculous to start a saw, get it lined up for the cut and then have it just fucking stop.

If it’s across the board I’d look at the impulse line and or intake boots. It’s a fairly common issue with ham fisted tree workers, the ‘top handle’ allows for enough movement these parts can fail when trying to free a stuck saw. Replacing the antivibe mounts can help as well.
If it is more of a when the saw is warmed up, the fuel tank vent can be clogged. The check for this is after running the saw hard crack the fuel cap, if there is a hiss it’s likely not venting properly

 

[Serf Life]

I read on another forum that folks buy semi-chisel for 90cc class saws for stump cuts as they stay sharp longer, for a bit slower cut. Keeping cruddy/worn chains on hand is a good call.