Sub threaded rod in place of cable

evo

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My Island, WA
So this is a idea I’ve had for a while now. Dealing with co-dom conifers where the tops are less than 24” apart. Unless one installs wire stops traditional cabling would be a PITA. Bracing calls for a rod to be placed above the union if applicable for best support.
I have a tricky cedar to cable it has two major trunks which inturn bifurcates once more. This would pull the smaller unions book style, or torsionally. I am considering just bolting the two top together then installing two cables below for the main union support.


The tops where the cable needs to be installed is in this orientation •• : and about 5-6” diameter
 
I’m trying to visualize.

Does one trunk split and then those two split again?

Not unlike two arms becoming two fingers up...V for victory or Peace?

Could bolt the two fingers and slip a piece of flat stock with holes in between or maybe a turnbuckle?

Through bolt below
 
I’m trying to visualize.

Does one trunk split and then those two split again?

Not unlike two arms becoming two fingers up...V for victory or Peace?

Could bolt the two fingers and slip a piece of flat stock with holes in between or maybe a turnbuckle?

Through bolt below
Yes and yes. Only take one of your peace sign and turn it 90 degrees from the other.
 
Just installed a cable in a pine that had about 8” between the two stems pretty much all the way to the top. Like you said no room for eye bolts and thimble. Rigguy worked perfect.
 

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Just installed a cable in a pine that had about 8” between the two stems pretty much all the way to the top. Like you said no room for eye bolts and thimble. Rigguy worked perfect.
Yeah, I have a bucket of Rigguys.. Seems just as easy to use a rod, pipe or other solid object..
 
Yeah, I have a bucket of Rigguys.. Seems just as easy to use a rod, pipe or other solid object..
I’m just wondering, as the tree sway in the wind the stems gets closer and farther from each other but also moves 90” from that as well...I wonder if a solid rod might just break...or bend. Cable just goes along with the ride.
 
I've done the split co-dom big conifer thing now a couple of times both with two threaded rods and nuts above the crack/ co-dom and then ehs cable and wire stops way up. I chose this rather than another rod up top because I believe that the stems way up will torque, not just bend together, perhaps causing a threaded rod to cut the trunks/ enlarge the holes over time. Not so low down the stem. I've since looked at the cables that have been up there for two and three years and all have survived some vicious hailstorms/ summer thunderstorms and they seem to be all sapped up and happy.

The pain was having to drill from both sides as there wasn't the room to get the drill and bit between the stems. I used a 1X1 stick and bungee cords to the stems to line up the drill bits as best I could to get 'em straight because they were so close together and I had to drill from the outsides. One of the wire stops was pre-installed on one end of the ehs on the deck and then the other threaded thru the holes, cut to length with a grinder and the wire stop installed (helps to mark the centre strand with felt pen to keep everything straight when working at height). Also I found olive oil or cooking oil (never petroleum based oil) helped on the cable 'cause as soon as the holes were drilled they were sap volcanos with goo dripping everywhere - good luck trying to pull bare wire thru that mess. No room for the Havens Grip, etc. like on a spreading deciduous tree. Used Rig Guy stops (not the recalled ones) and black caps but maybe the Wedge Grip Dead Ends would have been easier.

One of these was a most memorable day with the owner helping and his wife serving lunch, a moderate breeze to keep me cool and an unbelievable view of the Rockies west of us covered in late spring snow. The picture from the office that day was astounding. Best of luck.
 
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I installed a dynamic polymer on a double leader with ~ 2 feet between, 8" diameter each. There is not much flex in 5 feet of polymer cabling, so installing it with slight slack still does not permit much wandering. I just did a single loop around both leaders to avoid the tight quarters splicing, and eliminate a splice too.
 
Never used the Jaws so all good on that side of it. Thanks for the reminder on the recall though. Going to give this some thought. Perhaps I will use a cable on one side and a bolt on the other. The orientation of the secondary bifurcation on one side is in line with the cable placement, so if I anchored to the inner lead I would be pulling the union apart. I’d have to either drill straight through the inner stem for the cable, or figure something out
 
Ok I did it and broke in the new gopro... I used 1 5/8's rod on each pair or tops, reducing one of each pair. Then cabled the reduced tops together, and then the non reduced.
 

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