Stupid stitches-Cut resistant gloves?

[macrocarpa]

I was really looking forward to getting this job done and I started with a black walnut tree that had some pretty good size branches hanging over the house they wanted removed. I decided to take my pole saw up which I really didn’t need. As I was wrestling some of the cut branches to toss down to the ground I knocked the pole saw loose that was hanging beside me by the hook side on a small branch. My instinct was to catch it without even thinking. Well, I caught the blade.

Only needed three stitches and I’ll probably take a couple days off just to give it some time but it’s super annoying and embarrassing to tell the customer. Never had anything like this happen before in 20 years. I’ve had silky bites etc. but nothing that required stitches while on the job.

I remember someone here on Treebuzz said they always put a scabbard on their pole saw and take it on and off between every cut. Sounded tedious back then, but I’ll be reconsidering that now.

Lastly, what are the best cut resistant gloves that have enough grip and dexterity for climbing rope that would have prevented this wound?

 

[Brando CalPankian]

I'm glad you're okay. Scary.

There's a mod I've done (on a non line clearance use Jameson pole) where I drilled an eye bolt through so I can use a dog snap/lanyard to hold it.

I've also used speedline straps for a similar effect.

Hanging it upside down can sometimes work too.

As far as gloves, I hate them. That said, harbor freight now carries cut resistant nitrile gloves that are ansi rated. They kept my hands from getting cut sharpening chipper knives and I climb in them during the winter.

In an instance like this, cut resistant gloves won't help much. The serrated teeth will hit you regardless of what you wear. The gloves are more for sharp metal, like knives, than serrated edges like hand saws.

Ppe is really a last resort. Do you do line clearance? What type of poles are you using???

Another option would be to make a lightweight guard for the pole saw that's less cumbersome than the scabbard.

I'm glad you're okay. Heal quick.

 

[ghostice]

Glad it's not worse. I had kinda the same thing happen this summer in a birch - made some cuts with my polesaw and then hooked it on a branch but with the saw a bit above me and to the side. When I knocked it off it went sideways and the blade just touched my arm a bit before I stopped it. It left a neat row of little "chips' outta my skin which bled for about 15 min. Close call that coulda been a lot worse if I hadn't controlled it so quickly and it had ripped downwards with the weight of the saw and pole. What I started doing was hanging the blade below me on a long sling and biner so the blade is (way) below me. I don't want to be near that thing ever again (scabbard might be a pain but would be safer too).

 

[macrocarpa]

I'm glad you're okay. Scary.

There's a mod I've done (on a non line clearance use Jameson pole) where I drilled an eye bolt through so I can use a dog snap/lanyard to hold it.

I've also used speedline straps for a similar effect.

Hanging it upside down can sometimes work too.

As far as gloves, I hate them. That said, harbor freight now carries cut resistant nitrile gloves that are ansi rated. They kept my hands from getting cut sharpening chipper knives and I climb in them during the winter.

In an instance like this, cut resistant gloves won't help much. The serrated teeth will hit you regardless of what you wear. The gloves are more for sharp metal, like knives, than serrated edges like hand saws.

Ppe is really a last resort. Do you do line clearance? What type of poles are you using???

Another option would be to make a lightweight guard for the pole saw that's less cumbersome than the scabbard.

I'm glad you're okay. Heal quick.

Great suggestions! I do residential work and use Fred Marvin blades mostly.

 

[macrocarpa]

Glad it's not worse. I had kinda the same thing happen this summer in a birch - made some cuts with my polesaw and then hooked it on a branch but with the saw a bit above me and to the side. When I knocked it off it went sideways and the blade just touched my arm a bit before I stopped it. It left a neat row of little "chips' outta my skin which bled for about 15 min. Close call that coulda been a lot worse if I hadn't controlled it so quickly and it had ripped downwards with the weight of the saw and pole. What I started doing was hanging the blade below me on a long sling and biner so the blade is (way) below me. I don't want to be near that thing ever again (scabbard might be a pain but would be safer too).

Thanks! Yes, I think hanging it below me is the answer from here on!! And possibly coming up with some sort of scabbard or even a folding blade.

 

[macrocarpa]

My guess is if I would’ve had on something like this Kong glove, I probably would’ve got cut but wouldn’t have needed stitches and could have stayed and finished the job. But they can’t grip a rope for crap.

I had on a typical showa Atlas climbing gloves.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I’ll try to get pictures of my scabbard setup

Whew! I’ve thought about doing exactly what you did. Automatic response and cut off fingers or hand. Yuch

 

[Boomslang]

I swear by these Milwaukee's. Best general purpose glove I've ever used

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-large-red-nitrile-level-1-cut-resistant-dipped-work-gloves/1001485498?rrec=true

 

[chiselbit]

I buy these cheap bar covers on Amazon, drill a hole near the bottom and tie a small loop of bungee cord through the hole. Wrap and hook it on the hook when saw is not in use, pull it off and hook it to my caritool on saddle when cutting. When that hole tears out on the cover I’ll drill another one on the other side, can get some decent use time out of the set up.

 

[GregManning]

Note: Just a comment on Cut-Resistant gloves.

Like chainsaw pants, gloves are NOT cut proof.

I used to work in a manufacturing plant that required cut-resistant gloves for certain operations.
Generally, they were Kevlar knit w/ a slip-resistant rubber coating.
You can get cut if a sharp edge slices, or if a sharp point punctures the glove fabric.
They are intended to REDUCE major damage, or eliminate minor injuries

 

[Matias]

I have found that level 5 rated gives the balance of sufficient cut resistance with good dexterity. I am following this because Ringers got bought by Ansell and they stopped making the basic model gloves that were a good price at $9 for level 5. All the level 5 I see now are aroumd $15. I am leaning towards the Milwaukee or MaxiFlex, but the latter are only available to level 3 as far as I can tell from one quick search. Level 5 has stopped a Silky twice for me- different gloves each time. They have also stopped a chainsaw from doing more than poke me AFTER releasing the trigger but the chain was more than half decelerated- I went to grab a stub in too much of a hurry.

 

[Basswood]

This is what we use at our offices. I did not realize it was that much money, but worth it I think. Put a carabiner on the eye and you can put on harness or store on a limb much safer

 

[Matias]

This is what we use at our offices. I did not realize it was that much money, but worth it I think. Put a carabiner on the eye and you can put on harness or store on a limb much safer View attachment 97392

how does that scabbard keep the saw from falling out? I don't see any way to secure it.

I bought a Stihl polesaw scabbard, and it fits on my Castellari saw perfectly, and has a really nice locking feature. I duct taped a sling to the butt end of my pole, and clip to it with a bungee saw lanyard so that I can reach out as much as my arms will let me, and it is ALWAYS secured to me.

 

[ATH]

I wonder if you could make a 2 piece magnet scabbard so it doesn't need pulled off the end - just snap it on and off???

There was somebody at the Ohio Tree Care Conference (if only you had come! LOL) with a display of many cut resistant gloves. We had the discussion about hand saws and he agreed that they probably offer minimal protection against saw teeth. But I did like their gloves and will probably order some. Not a great website for ordering...they said just call. The brand is Tegera, and the website is ejendals.com

I do think those Kong gloves you have pictured are probably the best protection...I tend to get my knuckles more than anything else...but I don't like the bulkiness of them.

I prefer leather palm gloves...I'll probably try some from the above site (these are synthetic, but I liked the feel: Tegera Pro 9105). They also have some all leather that he said improve grip with oil or moisture (Tegera 6615).

Hoping you heal quickly!

 

[Matias]

I did used to get the ones with impact pro on the knuckles and back of hand. Bulky? Yes, but when you pinch or hit your knuckles, you feel like a genius. I just decided after I got better at things that I wasn't using that protection enough to justify the cost of those gloves.

 

[Basswood]

how does that scabbard keep the saw from falling out? I don't see any way to secure it.

I bought a Stihl polesaw scabbard, and it fits on my Castellari saw perfectly, and has a really nice locking feature. I duct taped a sling to the butt end of my pole, and clip to it with a bungee saw lanyard so that I can reach out as much as my arms will let me, and it is ALWAYS secured to me.

There’s two eyes on either side of the green line. One for the carabiner and the other fixes to the hook of the pole saw which keeps it on.

 

[Basswood]

 

[Matias]

There’s two eyes on either side of the green line. One for the carabiner and the other fixes to the hook of the pole saw which keeps it on.

Aaahhhh, that makes sense. I envisioned something else, but that would be easy on/off.

 

[Matias]

View attachment 97393

so, the tool is still unsecured when in use, right?

 

[Boomslang]

how does that scabbard keep the saw from falling out? I don't see any way to secure it.

Judging from the price, it's likely held in place by the spooge of capitalists.