- Location
- Longmont, CO
Watch out for your follow through cut!
Straight or curved?
- Thread starter Mrsmorningwood
- Start date
- Location
- Louisville, KY
I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)
KentuckySawyer
Participating member
- Location
- Louisville
[ QUOTE ]
I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)
[/ QUOTE ]
Grind some teeth off.
I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)
[/ QUOTE ]
Grind some teeth off.
TC
Participating member
[ QUOTE ]
I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)
[/ QUOTE ]
KY, I just turn the handsaw over and use the back side of it for smashing off small dead squibs.
I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)
[/ QUOTE ]
KY, I just turn the handsaw over and use the back side of it for smashing off small dead squibs.
- Location
- Louisville, KY
Yes- I've tried the back. Works OK, but the grip is off. It feels like I'm driving the teeth toward my arm.
Also, this may sound counterintuitive, but I think my "hammer-saw" should be a bit heavier as well, for inertia.
Also, this may sound counterintuitive, but I think my "hammer-saw" should be a bit heavier as well, for inertia.
KentuckySawyer
Participating member
- Location
- Louisville
What about drilling the blade close to the handle (where you could remove some teeth) and installing a couple small bolts for weight. Or instead of removing teeth, take a small piece of steel and bend it over the teeth and bolt it it place.
But back to Mrs Morningwood's question... I have only ever used a curved blade so I can't speak to the effectivness of a straight saw blade.
But back to Mrs Morningwood's question... I have only ever used a curved blade so I can't speak to the effectivness of a straight saw blade.
