Straight or curved?

Watch out for your follow through cut!
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I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)
 
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I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)

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Grind some teeth off.
 
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I've used both curved and straight saws- and don't have much difference in preference for either...but, i do wish Samurai would make a handsaw with a 2-3", untoothed section right above the handle for breaking deadwood off of pines. (the action would be like punching through the deadwood.)

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KY, I just turn the handsaw over and use the back side of it for smashing off small dead squibs.
 
Yes- I've tried the back. Works OK, but the grip is off. It feels like I'm driving the teeth toward my arm.

Also, this may sound counterintuitive, but I think my "hammer-saw" should be a bit heavier as well, for inertia.
 
What about drilling the blade close to the handle (where you could remove some teeth) and installing a couple small bolts for weight. Or instead of removing teeth, take a small piece of steel and bend it over the teeth and bolt it it place.

But back to Mrs Morningwood's question... I have only ever used a curved blade so I can't speak to the effectivness of a straight saw blade.
 

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