[ QUOTE ]
If the scenario was a tree removal and I was wearing hooks, it would take a very unusual set of circumstances for me to use SRT.
I would use SRT in the event of an unusally high crown with no limbs below 60', or if there was some other peculiar aspect to the job that made SRT the clear choice. An example that comes to mind... I had to remove ivy from some 200' Douglas firs once. The first limbs were at 70', and the ivy was 6"dbh. I used SRT to climb past all that horrible brushy ivy and access a good tie in spot at about 90'. Good times.
I haven't had any experiences that made think I wanted to employ SRT as my "preferred" technique 100% of the time.
[/ QUOTE ]
Speelyei, I am not arguing with you here, just saying that I can find it useful.
I use SRT all the time with removals on hooks, though the benefits may be minimal at times (no moving twice the amount of rope), there are other times where is saves a bit of effort here and there, which can add up. If I have to knock out limb ends on the large low limbs of conifers, I can shoot a line in, without needing to isolate the way I would for DdRT. Sometimes, I'll use a leather cambium saver at the crotch. Faster than installing a Ring and Ring Friction Saver. I will typically use a GriGri for this , or could use a friction hitch a la F8 systems. I can pretty easily tend my own slack and walk up the tree if it has a bit of lean to it, rather than flipping up the tree, which i would say is easier and more natural on the body, as well as faster, especially if there are dead stubs/ branches that I don't want to/ can't stop to remove allowing my flipline to keep going up, unimpeded.
If I'm flipping up a tree, I can keep my rope bag clipped to the left side of my harness (climb saw on right for balance), with a choked off running bowline around the trunk. If I have to lower down for a hanger or to rig in the middle of a long branch, its less rope to restack.
I tie the running bowline with a carabiner terminating the end of my rope, which is clipped in to the bowline to back up the bowline. If I need to ALT (alternating lanyard technique) my way past some branches (maybe needing to hang a block or get a higher TIP to limb walk, I can quickly switch to DdRT/ climbline-lanyard.
This provided the fall arrest that using an adjustable Ring and Ring type friction saver would, but its faster and easier to change to ALT for a few whorls.
With a tech cord prussic on the climbline, I could throw the 'biner around the trunk and clip into the prussic loop without side-loading the biner, and continue to work SRT to limbwalk (again, could be done DdRT).
While chunking down the trunk, a running bowline with a long tail allows you to gain many of the advantages of the DdRT Adjustable False Crotch, such as lowering down (cutting your facecut for the next log while supported overhead, as some like to do with bigger saws) and then pulling the tail to release the choke, dropping the running bowline down to your next work location. This is something that you can't do DdRT without an AFC. This also means that my body/ harness is not part of the loop that encircles the tree in the event of it splitting.
Maybe there are more useful scenarios for SRT for trees we deal with.
As many have said, use the best application of different techniques, not one technique that is the "best".