split tail systems

B

benj

Location
ohio
im wanting to start climbing spurless but iv never use a split-tail system on my rope...

do i have to use a (drt) double rope techinique?
do i need to use a micro pulley?
should i use a eye-to-eye prusik or another?
what aboout using a variation of the french prusik (valodtain tresse)?

im just looking for all the advice i can get an turn it into my own that works best for me..

i have read some on this but its allways better getting the info from the people who doin it..

thank you all and safe climbing.... GOD BLESS

my rope i use is velocity cool 11mm (7/16)
thanks,
bwc
 
im wanting to start climbing spurless but iv never use a split-tail system on my rope...

do i have to use a (drt) double rope techinique?
Normally yes...it's the best way to go when starting out.

do i need to use a micro pulley?
If you want one handed slack tending capabilities yes

should i use a eye-to-eye prusik or another?
You can if you want...starting out you might want to work with the blakes hitch on a single eye split tail

what aboout using a variation of the french prusik (valodtain tresse)?
You can play with it but it is a very finiky hitch and most of the time you have to set it by pushing up in it. I would shy away on this one until you have more experience.
Maybe try a distil.

Welcome to the buzz. You will learn a lot if you stick around here. Don't be shy. No question is a stupid question.
 
Before you move onto the split tail system you would be better off using the traditional drt with a blakes hitch and learn "low and slow"..

consider the tree climbers companion availible through the supply shops..


once you learn the regular method then switch to the split tail IMO

remember before you move up to more advanced techniques you should be sure you understand all the mechanics of the system...


be safe
 
you don't really need the pulley to self tend. A buck or two will get you a cheap keychain-type biner at the Home Depot or Lowe's and you can clip it to your D and then capture the rope below your hitch. It won't be as smooth and easy as with a pulley, but it will get you started with less cash.

Split tails evolved from the old-school system of tying a taut-line with your tail--i.e., you tie into your biner or ring and leave a few extra feet of rope, which then gets tied to the falling part of the rope to create the drt system. Back in the day, when we wanted to recrotch, we had to untie our hitch, disconnect the rope, place the rope in a new crotch, and tie in again. With a split tail, the hitch stays tied and you only have to unclip the terminal hardware and toss it to the new tie-in point, then reclip.

in other words, you're talking about separate things here. splitting the tail is great for someone who needs to do a lot of recrotching (like we do here in TX when we climb in wide-spreading live oaks). micro pulley (or equivalent) is great for one-handed slacktending, regardless of whether the tail is split. VT and related hitches are much smoother and easier to move than TL or blakes, but each has its own quirks and you should be sure you get comfortable using them low and slow before switching over for daily climbing (as Casey said, some are prone to loosening when unloaded, so you must pay closer attention to making sure the hitch is set before reloading if your system develops slack).

I second the rec for Tree Climber's Companion. A great resource to familiarize yourself with the tricks of the trade.
 
I use a VT and it works great for me. However it is easier to use a blake,s hitch for ascending DRT (body trusting).

You will need two carabiners (triple locking). A micro pulley is a good idea.

If you choose to climb with the blakes which I reccomend if you are going to body trust, use a long tail so you can advance the knot as far as possible when ascending. Once you are at the top shorten the knot and add a micro pulley with a mini biner, this will make slack tending easier.

If you "free climb" using the branches, a VT will keep you tied in and will perform a little better than the blake's.
 
A lot of information on the buzz and in various books, however unless you have some experience climbing I would recommend finding someone nearby willing to help. This would speed up the learning curve and allow you to try new technique before you spend your money.
 
Go get formal training. Be it from a university or college or an reputable arborist training company. There are too many aspect and facets of climbing to properly and safely learn from an online forum no matter how well intentioned and knowledgable the posters.
 
No question is a stupid question.

[/ QUOTE ]

except the ones i ask.
lewser.gif
 
With no spurs climbing. Look for climbing systems that use the legs more. Save the arms the punishment. You will have more energy at days end.
The advance hitchs move easier the TL or blakes. Move on after mastering these simple hitches. Look at old threads here for good info and photos of climber set up of knots.
Move on to SRT for tree ascending\descending when your ready.
I do trims and removal without spurs. Never liked spurs. No spiked ropes or spurs stuck in other foot or leg.
After 10 plus years tree climbing dont see the need for spur. My 3-cents.
 
Agree with TreeYeti, internet is a scary place to try and put together a climbing routine.

Not a requirement, but working the ground and learning the biz from there is a great way to start. Knowing what to do on the ground makes it ungodly times easier for you in the air because then you won't ask your ground crew to do anything that is dangerous or more difficult than it should be.
 
thanks for all the info(posts) it helps alot...

our motto at work
"safety first no one get hurt"
be SAFE and have fun climbing
 
I start my Newbies on the ART Lock Jack before they get rope on rope. Find it is safer and easier to learn.
After a couple of runs with LJ they try some all the other stuff.
And guess what, they prefer the LJ to the rope on rope stuff.
Its just simpler.
Rope walkin and descending I always go for other tools.
Handle ascender, Croll, Foot ascender, Gri Gri and for long descents I love my Rack. It is smooth and easy and doesn't twist up the rope like a Figure 8.
Unicender is pretty new and hope to try one out this year.

http://www.climb-art.com/
 
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thanks for all the info(posts) it helps alot...

our motto at work
"safety first no one get hurt"
be SAFE and have fun climbing

[/ QUOTE ]


Do you work for Asplundh?.....thats there motto
 
Go rec climb with some in your area. Ya learn in a more relaxed time frame versus work.
Use gear and see it used before ya buy.
Get around climber that are willing to use new and up to date climbing styles. You will thank yourself for doing this sooner than latter.
Work the SRT for tree ascending. Ytube for vids\ Moss vids teach techniques well. And other as well.
See ya at the top..
 
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