soil health

S

Starlet

Location
Newtown, CT
when you guys get a new client, depending on the work do you test the soil? is this part of your plant/tree health care plan? what type of soil amendments are you using? i go to the shows and they have so many out there you dont know what is the better of the group? for example doggett? or any thing like this? do you sell this type of service?
 
Having the soil tested is the right thing to do. I mix a cluster of organics depending on the situation, I use: liquid humates, liquid yucca, microbac-mychorrizae, and then a synthetic fert depending on soil test and objective. Last year during drought I used 2-6-6 or none at all. Trying to push new growth I'll bump up the N to 15-20 but generally i stick with the lower N ferts. Using a run of the mill high N fert has been discussed 1000 times on this site and lots of studies show N is like crack for trees.

I have a jet agitation rig so I stick with mostly liquid products.
 
My biz is still very much above ground, I am sorry to say, so the extent of my soil work is limited to RCX's and root zone aeration. My soil amendments are limited to compost and aggregates for vertical mulching; I don't use synthetic fertilizers of any kind. I don't pretend to know more than I do about soil-tree relations, but what I do know is that plants need healthy, aerated soil to thrive, and I achieve this by aerating, adding compost, and topping with composted woodchip mulch. I am getting alot of validation lately with research, so thanks to all of those people proving me right!

Here in NE, I think that our soils are relatively consistent and the minor differences are critical but generally obvious to anyone that's paying attention. Choose a species that thrives in the conditions you are working with, and give it the space to grow (above & below), and the plant will need very little support in order to thrive. Choose the wrong species for the site, and that's when you start needing soil tests or more advanced amendments.

-Tom
 
i also use just alot of composts, organics, never synthetics, or i should say very rarely. compost tea. what type of air tool do you use for the deep root mulching, i have seen a few and am going to invest in one this year a new one. any preference? i work alot with soils that is why i asked. there are alot of products with mycor. which ones do you guys use?
 
I am currently in the process of buying an Airspade. Until now I have only used a soil auger (for vertical mulching technique), and hand tools and pressure washer (for RCX).

My gas powered drill makes augering quick and easy, but it's still alot of work, and doesn't achieve the results of an airspade.

Manually removing turf, aerating the RZ with an auger, vertical mulching/composting, and top dressing with composted woodchips has been pretty much the service that I offer. I am looking forward to being more competitive and efficient in this area with the Airspade.

-Tom
 
please keep me posted about air spade and compressor selections, i would love to invest in one but knowing the area, i doubt i would get many customers to use it. i am going to use one on declinning city trees soon, volunteer work but at least its experience.

as for mycho products, i was buying a product called mico bac but it is too expensive, i'm looking in to the below products

www.growthproducts.com

www.horticulturalalliance.com

www.rsbtn.com

www.suryagrow.com

Product Prices:

Essential Plus (2x2.5 gal.) = $259.00 = $51.80/gal.

Surya Growmore (2x2.5 gal.) = $298.00 = $59.60/gal.

Surya Shoot Up (2x2.5 gal.) = $378.00 = $75.60/gal.

BTN+ (2x2.5 gal.) = $170.00 = $34.00/gal.

Micro-Bac (2x2.5 gal.) = $385.00 = $77.00/gal.

Horticultural Alliance Biorush 25 lbs = $310.00 = $12.40/lbs.

Horticultural Alliance Biorush (1# bag x 8) = $118.00 = $14.75/lbs.

Horticultural Alliance Root Reviver 25# bag = $78.00 = $3.12/lbs.

Horticultural Alliance Transplant 25# bag = $203.00 = $8.12/ lbs.
 
The supersonic air knife performs better for vertical mulching. I've used both tools side by side in the same soil/moisture conditions with the same a/c and the air spade just didn't even come close to the air knife in term of comfort, ease of use and effectiveness in performance. Plus they're still made by the engineer who originally designed them.
 
i buy locally and/or order online, depending on best price. i have not ordered from the above listed yet but will this spring unless i find better deals, those prices are from the product suplier:

http://www.treedoc.com/

i no you can also get dry formulations mycho, humates, etc to save on shipping
 
I own an air knife. I love it. I've only had two problems. One is that the jet tip came off in a aeration hole (and I didn't notice it right away - I must have dug up 50 holes looking for it!). It is easier to remove the air knife from a hole if you twist the wand as you pull it up, but I've since learned that it is very important which way you twist when removing it from a hole. If you twist it clockwise, over time the tip will work itself loose, and it's a $250 part.

The other is that the deflector shield gets stuck on the shaft when it gets dirty, and you have to rinse off the dirt in order for it to slide up and down again. If the shield is not against the soil surface, soil is blown everywhere, including in your ears, eyes, nose, mouth, down your shirt, etc.)

As for a compressor, I rent the 185 cfm diesel tow behinds that are always available at any rental yard. I don't use one enough to buy one (they're pretty expensive), plus I don't want to have to maintain it.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Tom, when you use the auger what size bit do you use and on what grid pattern? how do you keep from damaging roots?

[/ QUOTE ]

It's about 2" X 18". The tip is blunted, so it doesn't cut into woody roots. If you hit one, it's pretty apparent, the drill just stops going in. I generally auger away from the trunk where there are less woody roots, so I rarely hit them.

As far as a grid pattern, I go 12-18" apart with the holes, in any pattern possible, depending on the site. It's rarely an open site with no obstructions.

-Tom
 
i know the holes are about 12-18" apart the depth should be about 12" if i am thinking right. what is the going price in your area for this service, there is a pretty big demand for it here alot of my clients are wanting it done this season, they have some really big trees that they want to keep healthy, do you guys make your own compost materials or purchase them. i know some that are for sale you need to have analyzed to make sure it is good stuff and not something that is diseased. i know a guy who purchased compost that was infected. i think this type of care is up and coming and growing more popular.
 
I do it infrequently, and I charge between $200 and about $400. I am careful about where the compost comes from, too. We've got some good sources here in RI, and I have used my own in the past as well.

I would like to do it more, but it's pretty labor intensive, which is why I'm buying the Airspade... I will definitely offer this service more once I have the right tools. I'm getting a good deal on a used one, can't wait to try it out!

-Tom
 
tom will you also get the compressor or will you rent one,i am thinking of renting until i get enough demand which could be this season, i have to check and see what they rent for. the price is about what i thought $300-$350, if they have more than one tree i usually give a pkg. deal.
 
A very important consideration when purchasing compost is the source. If it comes from any type of public dumping site it is most likely LOADED with lawn chemicals, including high N fert, herbicides, insecticides and possibly miticides. God knows what people are putting on their lawns these days; the market is saturated with different products and chemicals. Stick with organic shellfish compost for soil amendments, and woodchip compost for top dressing, and you'll avoid the possibility of 'poisoning what you are trying to save' as the saying goes.

-Tom
 
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