Slings and Biners

[chep]

I have gotten very good results (in terms of efficiency) by using my lowering line with a spliced eye and a steel biner in combination with multiple slings. Each sling is then attatched to a branch, usually pretty small up to 3 or 4 inches I guess. And I will cut them 1 at a time so that by the last cut there are 2,3,4 branches hanging from the biner and final branch. Upon making the final cut the whole load swings away to be untied by my groundsman.
Now, I have had very positive feedback from my groundsman upon the ease of this operation, and myself feel very good about efficiency. But I have some reservations about my equipment. By using multiple attatchment points I find my biner being loaded in several directions at once. Can this be bad with small amounts of weight? I would never do it with big stuff. But the little stuff is so tempting.
If this is a silly practice on my part? What can I do do to right my wrongs?
Thanks

 

[Tom Dunlap]

You could substitute a rigging ring or heavy shackle for the biner. Then girth hitch the slings to a biner or snap and clip them to the ring.

 

[treebing]

check out that DMM rigging hub that tod k just posted about using

 

[Norm_Hall]

I would watch how the biner is loaded. That's a huge concern.
I've been doin the same thing for over 12 years using a locking ladder snap. Lighter loads, but multiple slings. Great for conifers. I use 3', 4' & 5' 3/8" filament dacron spliced loops. Be careful of the sewn webbing slings. Some tested broke at 3,700 pounds. Well below rated strength.

 

[Colin]

where can i get that test info? did they break at the sewn spice or was it webbing failure?

 

[tomthetreeman]

I do this all the time, with or without a rigging plate. I think Chep is talking about limbs under 50 lbs or so, and I think this is fine. The tough part is getting the sling length right for each individual limb... I always seem to have one that is a little short or long, but no worries with the light rigging.

The spliced rigging line gives you lots of options, too. Pass a bight through the eye and slip it over a limb/spar, and you've got a clove hitch without a knot!

-Tom

 

[Norm_Hall]

[ QUOTE ]
where can i get that test info? did they break at the sewn spice or was it webbing failure?

[/ QUOTE ]

They parted at the 'bar tack' stitching. There is no documented data.

 

[Backyardboogie]

you would really have to yard on that biner to get it to break, you'd be doing somthing that would be questionable in the first place

 

[Ali_Nicoll]

I do that too. Ok for small stuff, saves loads of time. I wouldn`t want to shock big bits on though. I use a 70kn steel biner. Pretty hard to break that.

 

[KevinS]

What do you use for a rigging line? I've done this and steel rigging biner isn't usually the weekest link and if it is look into a different biner size or style but definately nice to use saves the groundsman untieing a bunch of in line clove hitches or doing it 1 by 1. Just know your gears limit and play within it.

 

[tomthetreeman]

I am currently using NE 1/2" rigging line. I like it OK, not as much as my retired True Blue. I'll be switching back at some point.

-Tom

 

[chep]

Thanks for the replies. I am using stable braid. 1/2 inch I think. Glad that nobody is overly concerned with this behavior, makes me feel a bit better. I guess I'll wander over and check out these rigging plates. As far as I can tell with the plates you need multiple biners. That is why I like jus tthe spliced eye, 1 biner and multiple slings. So simple. The other day though I had a branch slip out of a sling and almost caused some damage. Now i really try and cinch those little devils down...

 

[tomthetreeman]

[ QUOTE ]
The other day though I had a branch slip out of a sling and almost caused some damage. Now i really try and cinch those little devils down...

[/ QUOTE ]

I almost gave my brother a pretty good headache when a 3" Sugar Maple limb slipped out of a sling on me. Same here, now I lock them on a stub/node, or wrap them twice.

-Tom