Singing Tree Rope Wrench

I must have one.
Very smooth climb.
Id be interested to see what direction the grain of the wood is orintated.
If I dont get that mesquite and ironwood in the mail to you, I will surley bring it to Geezers.
Stay safe and THANK YOU for this great new climbing technique. Mabey SRT will work for me afterall.
 
I like your slogan of the limb that goes with you. To a wood worker a limb has two grain directions. One for horizontal support on the bottom of the branch and it bends or goes the other direction for the top half of the branch. That could be an important design consideration as limb wood is stronger than stem wood. Could up your load limit rating to who knows what but it would be more durable and harder to break.
 
I know it's not to be rated, just kidding. But I like the idea and where it's going. I'd sure like to buy one when available, could be the solution.
 
[ QUOTE ]
cool stuff. what happens if it breaks? any idea of its rating?

[/ QUOTE ]

If it breaks your hitch catches and most likely cinches up. Because you have now 100% weight on that hitch.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I am the only one or what? How does this work, im a little confused.

Great idea though, I love the simplicity of it!

[/ QUOTE ]

check here first...there is a still shot.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=248081&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

its used to add friction to the line above your hitch so that you can use the hitch just like a normal tree setup. The key thing to this system then lets say the fate revolver system is that it releases when you ascend making it easier to ascend as demonstrated in the video.
 
To be real wood is a great material to machine for prototypes but in the end it will probably end up being aluminum or synthetic (that's what my crystal ball shows anyway). I see the need to thread it through and not have a gate to quick attach as a drawback. But I would still like a wood one because it's cool and I bet works great.

Just read the other thread I see Sean is onto the same thought.
 
the thing that i see wood having over aluminum is that wood does not get hot like aluminum. an eight coming out of a long tree gets piping hot. i dont know exactly what that means, but i like the fact its not hot to the touch at the end of a climb. i also don't see as much wear as i did on my kong robot for example. These things see at best half your weight, I would like them to take more of the load but cant seem to accumulate enough friction within the simple S curve that the wrench generates. I talked to John Hartenburg, and the spliced beeline is rated 3,800 end to end so in prussic form it is twice that. It would slip before it broke, It would not fly to the ground. I have thought about it a lot and realized I can think of no good reason that this thing should ever need to hold more than half your bodyweight. I could not experience a shock loading event. I am hopefully going to do a break test on wensday. I do want to make it able to load midline and I dont think it will be too hard to with swinging side cheeks. Bassically I need to find the right size nut and bolt.
 
Sorry I'm starting to be a back seat designer. But sometimes other's ideas lead to a solution. And my climbing needs a gizmo like your making.

How about aluminum or plastic with replacable wood friction inserts?
 
[ QUOTE ]
...How about aluminum or plastic with replacable wood friction inserts?

[/ QUOTE ]

Seems like a good idea.

Never the less, I liked the tool and the video production! Nice job with both Kevin.
 
In principle, I think it's a great idea. I just have doubts that a wooden piece will satisfy the folks at ANSI or OH&S. A whole piece of nylon might just be the ticket. It wears well, doesn't corrode, it's light, and is easy to work with. Oh, and it doesn't get to cold to handle at low temps.

Kevin, when the unit failed, the climber Camera guy) didn't have a spare carabiner to use with a munter hitch to get out of trouble? Another option that could have worked, is to simply put another prusik cord above (like Ron suggested months ago) the VT. Sometimes old school stuff is priceless. Like the 8 you took up for the guy to repel on!
 
Two prussic cords does not seem to work for some reason, It is very difficult and for me impossible to get them to share the load. Coming down on the hitch alone is a pain. The rope wrench does not solve about 4 inches of the problem the first 4 inches decending before the wrench engages is tight and i wish I could figure out how to solve that. I have not for the life of me figured out how to make a well dressed hitch fail. It seems pretty bomb proof.

There is a big misconseption of hitches because of the tendency for beginning footlockers to grab above their hitch and come streaking to the ground tearing up their hands. This is caused because of the hitch being high above their heads, causing their arms to be extended causing a natural panic reaction which is to hang on tighter, if they happen to be hanging on to their hitch they fly to the ground. I have watched this happen and it is scary. You can not hang on your hitch when it is by your harness or waist. This is something that can happen to people when they are climbing on an extended bridge too. This, in my opinion is where the fear of a hitch on SRT comes from and is not a danger in this system.

I think there may be situations where a bomb proof rated rope wrench would have applications but for general climbing with a hitch, i don't think it is at all necessary.
We will see how people want them and I will try to make them.
 
Great idea Kevin!

Have you considered using a branch collar and short stub to form the rope wrench? The collar is some pretty durable wood.
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom