southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Short Vid. Speedlining leaning Walnut\'s tops, skid
Little video of a walnut removal. Some root and butt decay, plus large cavity (1/3 of circumference) from trunk tearout in past. Neighbor's shed is under top of tree along with several 20-30 year old western redcedars, with very small manufactured home directly in fall zone of tree. Tree was probably overall 20-30 degrees from vertical.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm0rstDeIoU
We speedlined most of the tree, branches and trunkwood (vertical speedline), until I could drop blocks free into the open space on the side of the cedars.
We ended up winching the logs individually to the corner of the house with a Maasdam rope puller on many sheets of plywood to reduce the force on the anchor tree (pulley point for the hydraulic winch versus anchor point for the hand winch) and preserve the lawn. So much less friction on the plywood, even with a very round log. When we had a straight shot, we hydraulically winched them at the same time to the loader truck on plywood.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBWcpuZh_K0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLLV0kRU77k
I have a good trick for manipulating large wood that is rollable, which we used here. They can be seen along the front yard hedge at the beginning of the second YT video above.
We had some larger trunk sections that we could roll, however, to spin them on the grass at the corner of the house would have been very physically demanding/ hard on the turf.
We started rolling in the direction parallel to the back of the house (west to east). We positioned a piece of plywood near the the corner of the house with a small 2-3" chunk of wood to act as a fulcrum/ pivot point at the center of gravity of the log. When we got the log to the pivot point, we use a peavey to control and roll the log up onto the chunk of wood. I held the peavey, and Ben easily spun the log 90 degrees. We rolled it off, and to the north along the side of the house to the front yard to the self-loader dump truck that I hire.
A tapered branch section can be a good pivot point. It can be easier to roll up onto a branch than a chunk of wood. I've spun 20' x 20" western red cedar logs in a yard to be able to load them butt forward on to the self-loader before, using this technique.
As you know, unless a tree has almost zero taper, it is cone-shaped and rolls like a cone, not a cylinder. This fulcrum/ pivot works really good to re-adjust the path as it cone-rolls off the intended line. I also have found that you can compensate for the slight cone shape sometimes by getting the log rolling then moving to the small end, continuing to push the rolling log from there.
Little video of a walnut removal. Some root and butt decay, plus large cavity (1/3 of circumference) from trunk tearout in past. Neighbor's shed is under top of tree along with several 20-30 year old western redcedars, with very small manufactured home directly in fall zone of tree. Tree was probably overall 20-30 degrees from vertical.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm0rstDeIoU
We speedlined most of the tree, branches and trunkwood (vertical speedline), until I could drop blocks free into the open space on the side of the cedars.
We ended up winching the logs individually to the corner of the house with a Maasdam rope puller on many sheets of plywood to reduce the force on the anchor tree (pulley point for the hydraulic winch versus anchor point for the hand winch) and preserve the lawn. So much less friction on the plywood, even with a very round log. When we had a straight shot, we hydraulically winched them at the same time to the loader truck on plywood.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBWcpuZh_K0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLLV0kRU77k
I have a good trick for manipulating large wood that is rollable, which we used here. They can be seen along the front yard hedge at the beginning of the second YT video above.
We had some larger trunk sections that we could roll, however, to spin them on the grass at the corner of the house would have been very physically demanding/ hard on the turf.
We started rolling in the direction parallel to the back of the house (west to east). We positioned a piece of plywood near the the corner of the house with a small 2-3" chunk of wood to act as a fulcrum/ pivot point at the center of gravity of the log. When we got the log to the pivot point, we use a peavey to control and roll the log up onto the chunk of wood. I held the peavey, and Ben easily spun the log 90 degrees. We rolled it off, and to the north along the side of the house to the front yard to the self-loader dump truck that I hire.
A tapered branch section can be a good pivot point. It can be easier to roll up onto a branch than a chunk of wood. I've spun 20' x 20" western red cedar logs in a yard to be able to load them butt forward on to the self-loader before, using this technique.
As you know, unless a tree has almost zero taper, it is cone-shaped and rolls like a cone, not a cylinder. This fulcrum/ pivot works really good to re-adjust the path as it cone-rolls off the intended line. I also have found that you can compensate for the slight cone shape sometimes by getting the log rolling then moving to the small end, continuing to push the rolling log from there.
