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yupIn regards to the last charge^
When I walk on a site that is all butchered I play dumb and say something like "I hope you didn't pay for that" or "who the f*** did that" or "jesus they didn't have a clue". And if they chime in right away saying "how do you like my trim job" or "I thought I could do it" or "me and the boys...." or the best for last "I don't know what happened it was notched the right way".
Well you get the idea.
I absolutely HATE when people stand around me when im working, cmon carol, your gonna get yourself killedToday a customer followed two of us around to point out every cut she wanted, then said, “Yay, this is fun. I could be on your crew.”
I acted as if the company owner needed me, walked his direction, signaled for him to intervene, and then started cutting down trees in the back yard to get as far away as possible. The perks of being a contract climber.
I used to have a whistle on a retractable cord on my helmet.
A toot on a fox 40 or from Marv evidently…Nothing like a toot on a Fox 40 whistle to stop everyone in their tracks!
Jeez, glad i asked. Certainly LOOKS faster than hand filng, which takes me about 20-30 mins for a 24" bar. Guess i go a little too slow?ive seen it, only works with their specific chain, and I dont think itll last very long
tbh a hand file isnt much slower, and will give you more control over tooth profile
cool idea tho
You do realize @treesap is a 14/15 yr old boy who is prone to giving advice on matters he has no knowledge of, or experience with. Despite admitting that he has no actual knowledge or experience with the Power-sharp system he just couldnt resist the urge to once again chime in on matters he knows nothing about. Hell, last time I checked he has yet to run a chainsaw in a tree? Now he is handing out saw advice...WTF?Jeez, glad i asked. Certainly LOOKS faster than hand filng, which takes me about 20-30 mins for a 24" bar. Guess i go a little too slow?
OK so on the subject of hand filing... i use the correct dia file, of course. i follow the angle of the chisel, and i file a few different ways during different passes. First few passes i'll just go (single direction of course) along the angle of the chisel, and for some reason i twirl the file. Next i put some pressure upward and do a few passes letting the file pop out of the top of the chisel, to make sure i get the top sharp. lastly i file a few strokes slightly "around the bend", meaning as i push-pull the file thru, i exaggerate the angle towards the inner curved part of the chisel, making sure there's a nice sharp edge on the curve. so the stroke ends with a left or right motion, depending on which direction the chisel faces. Seems to give me good results, but i'm open to improvement for sure.
To hold the saw i simply use a round of wood w/a slot cut in it. Since most often i use my tailgate as a workbench, i find that 1/2" foam floor tiles work great to keep the saw from sliding around on the slick plastic of the bedliner. Floor tiles are also great during transport; good cushion in case the bumpy ride in the back is harsh on any of the parts in the carbs or elsewhere.
That thing does look good, and sounds good, but the reality is, from what I’ve heard, it’s disappointing. You must use the bar and chain combination from Oregon, and it’s a slow cutting chain, as the rakers are set very high, just by the nature of the system.Mind if I change the object? This fits nicely w/your subject line... this is a FB ad for a chain sharpener. Anybody know if this invention's any good? Sure LOOKS good LOL!!!
Get yourself a stump vise and you can sharpen your chain anywhere you have a chunk of wood and your file. They're inexpensive, simple and work great.Jeez, glad i asked. Certainly LOOKS faster than hand filng, which takes me about 20-30 mins for a 24" bar. Guess i go a little too slow?
OK so on the subject of hand filing... i use the correct dia file, of course. i follow the angle of the chisel, and i file a few different ways during different passes. First few passes i'll just go (single direction of course) along the angle of the chisel, and for some reason i twirl the file. Next i put some pressure upward and do a few passes letting the file pop out of the top of the chisel, to make sure i get the top sharp. lastly i file a few strokes slightly "around the bend", meaning as i push-pull the file thru, i exaggerate the angle towards the inner curved part of the chisel, making sure there's a nice sharp edge on the curve. so the stroke ends with a left or right motion, depending on which direction the chisel faces. Seems to give me good results, but i'm open to improvement for sure.
To hold the saw i simply use a round of wood w/a slot cut in it. Since most often i use my tailgate as a workbench, i find that 1/2" foam floor tiles work great to keep the saw from sliding around on the slick plastic of the bedliner. Floor tiles are also great during transport; good cushion in case the bumpy ride in the back is harsh on any of the parts in the carbs or elsewhere.
You do realize @treesap is a 14/15 yr old boy who is prone to giving advice on matters he has no knowledge of, or experience with. Despite admitting that he has no actual knowledge or experience with the Power-sharp system he just couldnt resist the urge to once again chime in on matters he knows nothing about. Hell, last time I checked he has yet to run a chainsaw in a tree? Now he is handing out saw advice...WTF?
Hey Sap, I need a new 70-80 cc saw and was wondering if you think a ported 462 is gonna outperform a 500i? Your thoughts would be much appreciated @treesap. lol

i JUST realized something... sometimes my saw doesn't 'bite' into material the way i'm used to. i've been wondering why for years. NOW i know! it's cause i have NOT been filing my depth gauges after filing my chain. Yes yes, i have seen in my saw manuals, all the info about how to correctly sharpen the chain. But honestly, it's too much info. Makes me dizzy, what w/all the lines and angles and verbiage, LOL!! So i never really tried to digest all of it. and i was never taught.Get yourself a stump vise and you can sharpen your chain anywhere you have a chunk of wood and your file. They're inexpensive, simple and work great.