Secret Weapon Integrated FootLock Prusik

bonner1040

Branched out member
Location
Boston
I saw a ton of guys use a secret weapon setup in the AR at the Ohio TCC... I was tinkering today and this is what I came up with:

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The idea is to footlock up and then run a DRT climbing system off of it. A lot of the secret weapon systems I saw guys using have 2 rings or pinto on a prusik then the climbing system into that.

The problems I see with that are that you get the tail of the climbing line system caught in your footlock and then are unable to stand up. Also, when you push the prusik up you have to lift the weight of the rope in your climbing system.

Other systems involve installing the secret weapon once at height. The idea behind integrating it into the footlock prusik is, that once at height you just shoot the spliced eye of your system through the XRR and clip it into the HC pulley. With any secret weapon you have to spike it, or tie a knot underneath, so clipping the footlock cords lower biner into that keeps it out of the way.

Its just an experiment, it might not work well at all!
 
That depends on who you ask I guess. XAS says that the XRRs are not for climbing as does the literature that they come with. You have to decide for yourself I guess.

To me its simple, the ring is plenty strong, my rope isnt going to burn through it, and its held in place by two locked brummels. Without cutting the cordage or dismantling the splice you could not remove that ring if your life depended on it.


It is 8mm TVP and its buried 12"+ past each brummel and the tails are tapered and overlapped. The main body ends up around 10mm and the 'eye' is the only place where its single diameter.
 
Nick
The way I see it tied and safetied I would be led to believe that the host line has a alpine butterfy run up to the limb and that is why you only safetied to the working leg. is that correct?
Todd
 
Todd,
It is just hanging fair on a limb (aka the banister). The butterfly knot is there to prevent the prusik from sliding, the bottom of the footlock cord is just clipped into the butterfly to keep it out of the way.

Do people normally spike both sides of the line when using a secret weapon?
 
I like it Nick. Do you think you could just footlock up with your DdRT setup in the ring as your life support? the running end of your rope could be through your acc. carabiner on your hip to keep it out of the way. Then you just spike and go.
 
Looks cool, Nick.

Looks like if there was any concern about the XRR failing, you could easily clip your climbing line through the biner in the spike. Since its not intended as life support, it doesn't seem like it would need to be a triple action biner. I don't know if the system you set up would pass the test for employees or not.
 
A 20x14 has an SWL of 3200kgs, so from that its make your mind up time on climbing off one.

Funny I find this type of query, when if you think of the weakest link in your system, it could be only 200kgs or less SWL.
 
Thanks Norm.

I dont usually climb DRT anymore, or footlock much for that matter. As you can probly tell my photo was just for demonstration, not a lot of pruning to do in my stairwell.

It certainly doesnt take much time to spike both sides of the line or even tie a single knot with both legs but I am trying to understand the hazard. I cant seem to figure a scenario where the FL prusik slips and the one knot doesnt stop it, nor can I envision one leg starting to run while the other doesnt and the system becoming dynamic?

I want to say that at the TCC people were only spiking one leg of it... Does anyone know what the ITCC ruling is on that?
 

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